1955 T-bird coil spring removal and installation without engine installed

[Y-8]

I want to remove and then reinstall the springs before the engine is installed. My thinking is change bushings and springs, install disc brakes and all of the power steering, and then install the engine. Should/can I leave the springs compressed and adjust the tension to keep the control arms in the correct position without the weight of the engine, or should I release the compressors and let the upper control arm bumper rest against the stop until the engine is reinstalled, I don’t know if this ruins the bumper or not.

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[doug7740]

I want to remove and then reinstall the springs before the engine is installed. My thinking is change bushings and springs, install disc brakes and all of the power steering, and then install the engine. Should/can I leave the springs compressed and adjust the tension to keep the control arms in the correct position without the weight of the engine, or should I release the compressors and let the upper control arm bumper rest against the stop until the engine is reinstalled, I don’t know if this ruins the bumper or not.

View attachment 9746

When you install the control arms on the frame do not tighten the control arm shaft nuts on the upper control arms or the nuts and bolts on the lower control arms until you have the engine and transmission mounted on the frame, otherwise you will damage the bushings and the rubber bump stops.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Y-8]

1955 Thunderbird, engine removed, lack of engine weight pins arms in full downward position, currently upper control arm bumpers are gone (might have happened last time I drove the car), Jacking up on the lower control arm without the engine weight does not compress spring at all. Can get springs out without compressor but must compress springs to reinstall.

Q: Once the new springs are installed, without the engine weight:

Should I let off of the compressors and let the springs pin the arms in the downward position? Will this cause damage to the new rubber bumper on the upper control arm?

Alternatively, should I just leave the springs compressed enough to keep the bumper from making contact with the stop? Then remove the compressors when the engine is installed.

Or is there a different procedure?

 

[doug7740]

I work at the Preservation/Restoration center of the Crawford Auto Museum and we are in the process of restoring a 1955 Thunderbird. I know what you mean about not being able to fully compress the front coil springs using a jack without the engine installed. Since I replaced all of the rubber bushings and stops, after I installed the front coil springs I removed the spring compressors and let the upper control arms contact the stops. Since the stops are new the force from the coil springs has not caused any damage to the stops. As I stated before, I won’t fully tighten the control arm shaft nuts on the upper control arms or the nuts and bolts on the lower control arms until I have the engine and transmission mounted on the frame, otherwise it will damage the bushings when they twist from the weight of the engine.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Y-8]

Doug,

Thank you for sharing your experience, I was concerned about the bump stops being damaged.

The pictures of the frame are really helpful, I am planning to install a new fuel line with body on, considering straightening it out a bit to get it over the rear frame rail and then bend it back into shape or splicing at the frame.

Is you photo archive available for viewing??? I would donate to see it.

Thanks again,

Brent

 

[doug7740]

Brent,

With the body on the frame you will find it much easier to cut the fuel line and splice it back together using compression fittings. I attached some other pictures of the frame so you can get an idea of how the fuel line and brake lines are routed. I must have hundreds of pictures that I took during the process of restoring this Thunderbird, let me know what are you interested in looking at.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Y-8]

Some afterthoughts:

The early birds springs run through the frame adding a level of safety, I tied the bottom to the control arm. Used a compressor and applied just enough pressure to compensate for the engine being out so that the car would not be pushed up when the arms were disconnected from the spindle. Let the jack down a bit then loosened compressor, did this a couple of times and this process felt controlled and safe. If the engine was in the car I would not hesitate to use a jack without the compressor.

Thanks for all of your input!