S
Sharps40
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- Last seen
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2020
- Thunderbird Year
- 2003
Didn't fix my rattle in the trunk but tightened her up appreciably. Probably every T bird needs this by now as it seems the factory bushings are quick to rot. Control arm is Dorman, $125 free delivery on Amazon. Mevotec are same price and also available on amazon, shop by sales i suppose.
Set the E brake, chock wheels, jack up Drivers rear, remove wheel. Use jack stand, you'll need your jack to raise and lower the spindle to find the "easy" spots that allow the bolts to back out of the bushings and to allow easy reinsertion of the ball joint stud.
All hand tools. No rust southern car, so easy. Torques can all be broken and applied with hand tools, I don't think breaking torque on the bushings exceeded 50 ft lbs and i Re torqued to 60 ft lbs which is max for 1/2" grade 5 hardware.
Easy job, about one hour total.
Purchase Links From Moderator-
Control Arm with Ball Joints- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-ball-joint-mcsoe38-mcsoe39-motorcraft.10086/
Sway Bars and Tie Rod Ends- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-sway-bars-tie-rods-2002-2003-2004-2005.9490/
Boot Covers- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...2004-2005-ford-thunderbird-boot-covers.10945/
Remove the sway bar link for easier access to the ball joint nut.
Remove the anti lock brake line and place it out of the way.
Loosen the bushing nuts, loosen the ball joint nut. Put the jack under the spindle with slight tension. I found with the strut left in place the entire job can be done with the suspension hanging but used the jack for safety and to raise/lower the spindle until I decided the upper arm would not go flying up or the lower down as I backed off the ball joint nut.
Take the old control arm out of place, suspension is now hanging, strut remains installed.
Short video showing worn ball joint and very worn upper rear bushing.
Install new dorman control arm. Snug it all up.
Note. Torque the ball joint nut first. Leave the control arm bushing nuts a bit over hand tight. To prevent undue and rapid bushing wear, torque the bushing nuts with the spindle set at or close to ride height. i.e. use the jack to load weight onto your spindle. When the spindle is about centered or slightly less in the wheel well (do this by eye) reach in and without knocking the car off the stands or getting body parts under the loaded suspension, tighten and final torque the bushing nuts.
Assemble wheel, remove stands, lower car, tighten lugs, clean up and go ride.
Easy Peesy, well, at least this side was. Off to the passenger side next. Remember, don't get body parts above or below control arms/springs, etc when working them. If they have stored energy, they can go flying as nuts and bolts are removed. Upper rears are not bad, between hanging and some slight up and down movement there will be a spot where it all comes undone by hand. Use caution. Have fun.
Set the E brake, chock wheels, jack up Drivers rear, remove wheel. Use jack stand, you'll need your jack to raise and lower the spindle to find the "easy" spots that allow the bolts to back out of the bushings and to allow easy reinsertion of the ball joint stud.
All hand tools. No rust southern car, so easy. Torques can all be broken and applied with hand tools, I don't think breaking torque on the bushings exceeded 50 ft lbs and i Re torqued to 60 ft lbs which is max for 1/2" grade 5 hardware.
Easy job, about one hour total.
Purchase Links From Moderator-
Control Arm with Ball Joints- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-ball-joint-mcsoe38-mcsoe39-motorcraft.10086/
Sway Bars and Tie Rod Ends- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-sway-bars-tie-rods-2002-2003-2004-2005.9490/
Boot Covers- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...2004-2005-ford-thunderbird-boot-covers.10945/
Remove the sway bar link for easier access to the ball joint nut.
Remove the anti lock brake line and place it out of the way.
Loosen the bushing nuts, loosen the ball joint nut. Put the jack under the spindle with slight tension. I found with the strut left in place the entire job can be done with the suspension hanging but used the jack for safety and to raise/lower the spindle until I decided the upper arm would not go flying up or the lower down as I backed off the ball joint nut.
Take the old control arm out of place, suspension is now hanging, strut remains installed.
Short video showing worn ball joint and very worn upper rear bushing.
Install new dorman control arm. Snug it all up.
Note. Torque the ball joint nut first. Leave the control arm bushing nuts a bit over hand tight. To prevent undue and rapid bushing wear, torque the bushing nuts with the spindle set at or close to ride height. i.e. use the jack to load weight onto your spindle. When the spindle is about centered or slightly less in the wheel well (do this by eye) reach in and without knocking the car off the stands or getting body parts under the loaded suspension, tighten and final torque the bushing nuts.
Assemble wheel, remove stands, lower car, tighten lugs, clean up and go ride.
Easy Peesy, well, at least this side was. Off to the passenger side next. Remember, don't get body parts above or below control arms/springs, etc when working them. If they have stored energy, they can go flying as nuts and bolts are removed. Upper rears are not bad, between hanging and some slight up and down movement there will be a spot where it all comes undone by hand. Use caution. Have fun.
Last edited by a moderator:
