1955 intake gasket sealer

[JRH]

Any suggestions whether to use gasket sealer on the intake manifold gaskets. My right side has a leak and have new gaskets and a valley gasket i figured I'd change that also sense I'll have it apart anyway.

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[CtCarGuy]

I just did my 56 and I put some hi temp RTV around the coolant ports. Works perfectly.

 

[4VE]

Yes, use RTV but clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any oils.

 

[paul5456]

Other than the water ports, sealer is usually not used on intake gaskets. I use RTV round the water ports only. Very thin coat both sides of the gasket

 

[doug7740]

Any suggestions whether to use gasket sealer on the intake manifold gaskets. My right side has a leak and have new gaskets and a valley gasket i figured I'd change that also sense I'll have it apart anyway.

I have installed a large number of these over the years and never had any issues with leaks, vacuum or coolant. I install them dry...make sure the gasket surfaces are super clean. I use a bit of 400 grit sandpaper to get whatever can't be peeled or scraped off, then wipe everything down with lacquer thinner. In my experience, if a gasket is meant to be put on dry, using RTV can upset how the gasket lays and it may actually cause it to leak. The gasket has a raised bead around the coolant ports that will crush to seal. If it leaks when it's installed properly, then the surfaces may be warped. Take a metal straight edge to the heads and intake.

The intake bolts should thread into the cylinder heads smoothly. It is important to note that the end intake manifold bolt holes on the Y-block open into the pushrod holes of the cylinder heads. You must use bolts with the correct length. Installing bolts that are too long interferes with the pushrod.

(See Attached Picture)

The manual is right about the torque setting of 23 - 28 ft. lbs. and I use a crisscross pattern, starting with the 4 studs in the middle. I don't think the manual says anything about it because it was probably considered common practice and it was specified if it was otherwise.

This is the pattern I use, but it's by no means the only way. Just the logical way to do it... I start with one of the front studs and work my way out. Torque it incrementally...in other words, torque them all in that order to 10 ft. lbs., then 18, then the final 28. That will make sure everything seats evenly.

7 3 1 5 9
Front--->
8 4 2 6 10

Valley Pan Installation

I torque mine to 20 inch pounds with perfect results. Over tightening of the 2 bolts will bend the cover and cause leaks. I torque the draft tube to 20 inch pounds as well.

The valley pan will just clear and can be pulled without removing the heads. It does have to kind of wiggle and one side will go down then the other but it does go. When I did mine, I sprayed one side of the gasket with hi-tack then set it on the block to help keep it in place until the valley pan was on and torqued.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[vernz]

I have installed a large number of these over the years and never had any issues with leaks, vacuum or coolant. I install them dry...make sure the gasket surfaces are super clean. I use a bit of 400 grit sandpaper to get whatever can't be peeled or scraped off, then wipe everything down with lacquer thinner. In my experience, if a gasket is meant to be put on dry, using RTV can upset how the gasket lays and it may actually cause it to leak. The gasket has a raised bead around the coolant ports that will crush to seal. If it leaks when it's installed properly, then the surfaces may be warped. Take a metal straight edge to the heads and intake.

The intake bolts should thread into the cylinder heads smoothly. It is important to note that the end intake manifold bolt holes on the Y-block open into the pushrod holes of the cylinder heads. You must use bolts with the correct length. Installing bolts that are too long interferes with the pushrod.

(See Attached Picture)

The manual is right about the torque setting of 23 - 28 ft. lbs. and I use a crisscross pattern, starting with the 4 studs in the middle. I don't think the manual says anything about it because it was probably considered common practice and it was specified if it was otherwise.

This is the pattern I use, but it's by no means the only way. Just the logical way to do it... I start with one of the front studs and work my way out. Torque it incrementally...in other words, torque them all in that order to 10 ft. lbs., then 18, then the final 28. That will make sure everything seats evenly.

7 3 1 5 9
Front--->
8 4 2 6 10

Valley Pan Installation

I torque mine to 20 inch pounds with perfect results. Over tightening of the 2 bolts will bend the cover and cause leaks. I torque the draft tube to 20 inch pounds as well.

The valley pan will just clear and can be pulled without removing the heads. It does have to kind of wiggle and one side will go down then the other but it does go. When I did mine, I sprayed one side of the gasket with hi-tack then set it on the block to help keep it in place until the valley pan was on and torqued.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

View attachment 23731

Doug 7740. Great write up! I need to remove the intake manifold on my 57 to replace the heat tube. Does everything you say apply to the 57 as well as the 55? Thanks, Vern

 

[doug7740]

Vern,

The instructions are the same whether its a 292 Y-block or a 312 Y-block engine.

doug 7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue