2004 - EVAP Leak at the fuel tank | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2004 - EVAP Leak at the fuel tank

Bambi

Bambi

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Thunderbird Year
2004
Hi, all appreciate in advanced any advice that can be sent my way. I will go back and look at other posted items on this topic.

Started back in 2019 I was originally told after my check engine light came on that I needed a new transmission… I got one… then they told me it wasn’t my transmission I needed new oxygen sensors… Done… Then I was told it was my manifold intake valve that needed to be replaced… Replaced that… Then was told it was my fuel tank.

Impossible to find a brand new fuel tank so found used one that only had 43K miles on it and was told it was in great condition.… So my fuel tank was replaced.

I guess I should note my TBird has 102K Miles and still overall runs fantastic.

Check engine light still remains on and issue is they can see a VERY small leak at the roll over neck of the fuel tank when they do a smoke test. Car tends to shutter or stutter when initially driving but once it gets going smooth out. Not sure if that’s the air getting into the tank area (if that even makes sense) that is causing this shutter.

Any suggestions from anyone please? - thanks - BAMBI

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Any suggestions from anyone please? - thanks - BAMBI
Buy a BlueDriver OBDII Reader and post the codes. You need to be able to read these codes yourself and not solely rely on the shop. It should show a small Evap Leak code if there is a leak.

Remember with a car this old, you can have more than one issue occuring. Have you inspected your COPS?

Also, did you read the posts in the thread where you previously asked this question? Other people indicated the leak on their car is from the vent valve, this is something your mechanic should have been able to determine.

 
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Thank you so much for your reply and suggestion. I am ordering the OBD you suggested on Amazon… and I did ask the mechanic about the vent valve. But I have subsequently taken it to a different car dealership, so will ask them again as I had forgotten about that.

After all the things I’ve read I’m less concerned about the check engine light being on as long as it has been as when they do manually turn it off It comes back on because of the EVAP CODE.

I am not naïve by any stretch of the imagination, but I do rely on the mechanics (and this forum on occasion) to point me in the right direction.

I’ve just become more concerned about the shuttering, but I’m assuming again it’s the air getting into the fuel tank or the fuel line that causes the vibration as I initially accelerate - I just remain hesitant to take it on any long trips.

-regards

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
I am not naïve by any stretch of the imagination, but I do rely on the mechanics (and this forum on occasion) to point me in the right direction.
I didn't say you were naive. I said don't "Soley" rely on the mechanics. Anyone can use those BlueDriver ODBDII and it even tells you what the problem likely is, so it's a great tool to have especially if you are going to ask for feedback online. There is no point in resetting the CEL unless the problem has been fixed.
 
I had the same issue with check engine light. You are correct, no new gas tanks to be found. After the repair shop tested out two used ones with the same exact issue as mine had, the valve at the top leaking, they did a plastic weld and so far so good. They said the leak wasn’t dangerous or would cause me problems except for passing emissions test.
 
I had the same issue with check engine light. You are correct, no new gas tanks to be found. After the repair shop tested out two used ones with the same exact issue as mine had, the valve at the top leaking, they did a plastic weld and so far so good. They said the leak wasn’t dangerous or would cause me problems except for passing emissions test. I’m assuming this is a factory defect since there are so many problems with it.
Biddle was right in asking if a Coil Over Plug could be misfiring, since these go out occasionally. But in my limited experience a misfiring coil will make it run rough whether cold or hot, and it can be intermittent although mostly misfiring, in the case of the two times I had problems.

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
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