Stalling Problem

[Gobird]

I know this came up before but I just found something on the LS site. These owners seem to be having the same stalling problem as some of us have had. So far they (Ford) haven't found a fix for it. So this isn't just a Bird problem. Just thought I'ed let everyone know.

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02 T-Bird 9293
69 Vette
73 MGB
97 F-150 4x4
2-Seadoo Jet Skies
a dog a cat and a couple hundred fish in my pond

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[ls1bmw0]

We've been in conversation with the Lincoln engine engineers about the stalling issue. They gathered info. from the LLSOC members and I'm waiting to hear back from the 3.9L V-8 engine manager on if they've found the issue and what the resolution may be.

Brian Gowing
Founder/President
Lincoln LS Owners Club www.llsoc.com

 

[Raida]

Brian: Way to go!! LLSOC is a great group. I am proud to be a member. Jim

 

[George]

That's why I always suggest that people use the Lincoln dealerships for service. Our drive trains are Lincoln LS so those mechanics are familiar with our issues on the TBirds

 

[teginder81]

Engine stalling while accelerating can be cause by the following reasons,

When your engine stalling occurs during cold rainy mornings with a cold engine, then the problem is moisture on distributor cap. As you may not aware, during the night, condensation forms on the inside of distributor cap when your car engine is due to cold and wet weather, this moisture allows electrical current inside the distributor cap which may lead to engine misfiring, which is more severe during acceleration thus cause the engine to stall. To avoid formation of moisture inside the distributor cap, park you car inside a garage for the night if you expect to have a wet weather during the night.

If your car engine stalling is gradually frequent as the first time it was happened then the possible cause is that your car is suffering from a vacuum leak, because vacuum leak often start out small and gradually becomes worst due to pressure inside your car engine.

As you may not know the vacuum created in your car fuel system is one of the key factor in determining how much fuel your car engine will get, any leak in your car fuel system vacuum will affect the air/fuel mixture that enters your car engine combustion chambers, thus resulted in engine stalling.

In this case you do not have any option but to bring your car to a reputable shop and ask the mechanic to check your car for a vacuum leak, particularly the EGR and the PCV valves, as this two items are often to be the source of vacuum leak.

If your car engine stalling is not gradually become frequent over time and also occurred not only during cold wet weather, then the only possible problem of your car is a bad throttle position. Fuel injected engines have a throttle position sensor, a device which measures how far a driver pressed the gas pedal and thus the throttle. The position sensor feeds the data to the engine computer that does the calculation the resulting data is used to determine precisely how much gas the fuel injection system should inject into the engine. If the throttle position sensor provides a wrong data to the engine computer it will adversely affect the injection of gas into the engine thus resulting in your car engine stalling during acceleration. Bring your car to a reputable shop and ask the mechanic to check your car throttle position sensor.

 

[teginder81]

check your vacuum line which is going to your brake booster if it stalls when you press brakes. check all your vacuum lines

seems like its broke

 

[Markjackallen1]

I had a vacuum problem with my '05 that was caused by a leaky brake booster. Dealer found it by running "smoke " through the system. Booster replaced, problem solved.

 

[Matt1701]

I was having a “Stalling” problem with my 02 Thunderbird. Car would die then start up again, seemed to be happening more frequently, never threw codes. Anyway, looked on the forum and the first thread I found was to replace the TPS, I did that and it took care of it for a couple of days and then started to stall again. Found another thread that suggested the IAC Valve, guess what, “No Longer Available”. I found a new one tho and ordered it. Replaced it and the car was cranking but not starting.
getting frustrated I came back to the forum and found yet another possible cause the “Inertia Safety Switch”. I ordered one of those too.
it too was not the problem.
Not long ago I replaced my Hydraulic Cooling fan with an Electric Fan and the only switched location on the engine bay fuse block is the fuel injector fuse. I noticed that with the ignition on my fan was not coming on so I checked and I was getting no voltage to the injection system. Now I’m thinking the fuel pump may have failed.
It had not, but after replacing everything and not having fuel pressure and not having any blown fuses or relays in the fuel system I was thinking I’d try a new fuel pump.
While pushing the car into a carport to prepare to do the fuel pump R&R my electric cooling fan came on.
I got into the car it fired right up. Definitely not the fuel pump.
git the car into the carport and shut it off. It would not start again and again no power to the fuel injectors. Had my Ex-Wife turn the ignition on and off and sometimes the fan would come on and other times it would not. But I was hearing a clicking coming from the fuse block.
the engine bay fuse block also has 4 relays, they are exactly the same relay. The one relay that was clicking was for the IAC. I swapped it with the starting circuit relay and the problem went away.

I did find that the Walker Brand TPS I had put on was also not correct for our cars even tho it says it is. I put the original ISC Valve back on and the original TPS and again no stalling issues. I carry a spare relay incase it starts again.
Basically it came down to an $8.00 relay and had I not run my low amperage wire from the injection system fuse I’d have never found the bad relay.
The Dealer would not have found it due to no codes being thrown and they would have replaced everything and more that I replaced.