69 T Bird won't start after new battery

Hi all,

New to the forum, recently came into a 69 T Bird 429 jet mostly original parts. Having issues getting it going. Tried to jump it when I first got and engine almost turned over but not luck. Once I swapped in a new battery I would get nothing when turning the ignition. No cranking or anything just a simple small thud when turning the key. All the lights and electrical seem to be working fine leads me to believe it's not the battery. Do you guys think I'm looking at a bad starter? Could I possibly have blown a fuse? I'm nowhere near a car guru so some help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks all
 
A thud? Like a starter trying to rotate a seized or stuck engine? Time to pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. If no signs of rust or condensation then add your favorite lube ( Kroil, Liquid Wrench diesel etc) to the cylinders.
 
A thud? Like a starter trying to rotate a seized or stuck engine? Time to pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. If no signs of rust or condensation then add your favorite lube ( Kroil, Liquid Wrench diesel etc) to the cylinders.
Thank you so much. It's like a small thud(thunk) when I turn the key in the ignition. A neighbor took a listen and said it sounded like the ignition switch may need to be replaced and the ignition cylinder itself gets stuck pretty often when attempting to turn the key. I just found it weird that when we tried to jump it it almost turned over then just all of a sudden nothing. You're thinking a spark plug issue? I can took a peek next time I get a chance if so and lube them up if anything.
 

64ZCODE

Well-Known Member
You could replace the battery cables, cleaning the connection points. It should be done regardless if not done in the last 5-10 years and might be the reason that current isn't reaching accessories.
 
Lets start at the beginning. When you turn the key to ON (not start) does the dash wake up? Gauges move and lights come on? When you move the key to the START position does anything change? Do you hear a sound (faint clunk or whine) coming from the engine compartment? Do the dash lights dim or go out? Honestly from what you have said and your terminology you need someone that is familiar with engines to guide you. For instance, when you said that the engine almost turned over, does that mean that the fan blades and fan belt on the engine moved a little bit and then stopped? Or did you hear the sound of the starter engaging the gear on the flywheel and then stopping because the engine would NOT turn over?
I am hoping that you have a dirty battery connection or corroded cable but its hard to tell from a far distance.
 
Try first turning the engine by hand I would offer. Next check and see if power is going to the starter. Make sure its is getting voltage. You can also try starting the car off the solenoid. Pull the wire off the coil and just see if you can get the engine to turn.
 
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Lets start at the beginning. When you turn the key to ON (not start) does the dash wake up? Gauges move and lights come on? When you move the key to the START position does anything change? Do you hear a sound (faint clunk or whine8) coming from the engine compartment? Do the dash lights dim or go out? Honestly from what you have said and your terminology you need someone that is familiar with engines to guide you. For instance, when you said that the engine almost turned over, does that mean that the fan blades and fan belt on the engine moved a little bit and then stopped? Or did you hear the sound of the starter engaging the gear on the flywheel and then stopping because the engine would NOT turn over?
I am hoping that you have a dirty battery connection or corroded cable but its hard to tell from a far distance.
I was finally able to identify where the noise is coming from with a neighbor. Sounds like its coming from the ignition module. I'll attach a pic of it to make sure I got the right part. How would you test this part to make sure its running current or not? Multimeter? Test light? Battery and solenoid both are working fine tested them. Hope I'm not confusing you guys I'm fairly new at this any guidance is always helpful
 
Update on this one. Was finally able to get it running. Seems shifter was stuck not going into park. Put some new gas in there and started like a champ. Unfortunately now I'm in need of a neutral safety switch. Anybody know where I can buy one? Been looking online but no luck. Thanks for the help. Having a few brake issues too but think I just need to bleed them out.
 
Hi all,

New to the forum, recently came into a 69 T Bird 429 jet mostly original parts. Having issues getting it going. Tried to jump it when I first got and engine almost turned over but not luck. Once I swapped in a new battery I would get nothing when turning the ignition. No cranking or anything just a simple small thud when turning the key. All the lights and electrical seem to be working fine leads me to believe it's not the battery. Do you guys think I'm looking at a bad starter? Could I possibly have blown a fuse? I'm nowhere near a car guru so some help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks all
I would first try turning your headlights on and then crank the engine.If the headlights dim your all connected .If they don't,check your knew connections at the battery and the GROUND connection.If the lights do dim,turn off the lights turn the key to on position and try to jump it at the starter solenoid. That way you will hear more sounds than from inside the car.If nothing happens when your jumping the solenoid try tapping the solenoid while jumping it at the same time. If all that doesn't work you'll need someone under the car tapping the starter with a hammer while it' being cranked. If none of that works, I'm out of ideas. Good Luck!
 
Did you fix it yet? I have had starter bendix stick out for lack of lubrication and lock up flywheel. That can cause high amperage draws that makes electronic devices make funny noises. Try turning the crankshaft backwards to unlock starter from flywheel.
 
Did you fix it yet? I have had starter bendix stick out for lack of lubrication and lock up flywheel. That can cause high amperage draws that makes electronic devices make funny noises. Try turning the crankshaft backwards to unlock starter from flywheel.
Thanks for reaching out. Got it running finally. Turns it faulty neutral safety switch caused the car to not believe it was in park. New battery and some new gas brought it back to life thankfully. Any idea on where I can find a safety switch? Been looking online but want to make sure I'm getting a good price for it. Issue I'm dealing with now are the brakes. Tried to bleed them out the other day and nothing. When you pump them pedal goes to the floor and you hear a hissing noise. Also have some leakage between the master cylinder and brake booster. Grabbing some quotes from a couple shops see if I want to go that route as it may be something a little more advanced than what I can do.
 

64ZCODE

Well-Known Member
Most likely your lack of pedal is due to the MC leaking fluid into the booster. The MC in my '64 was leaking into the booster. I removed the defective MC and suctioned the the brake fluid out, then rinsed it with brake cleaner, repeat etc. Put a new MC on and all is well several years later. Some say if you have brake fluid in the booster you should replace it, but that's not my experience.
 
Most likely your lack of pedal is due to the MC leaking fluid into the booster. The MC in my '64 was leaking into the booster. I removed the defective MC and suctioned the the brake fluid out, then rinsed it with brake cleaner, repeat etc. Put a new MC on and all is well several years later. Some say if you have brake fluid in the booster you should replace it, but that's not my experience.
I've been sending out inquiries to some mechanics and that's what they've been saying as well. He told me the booster would most likely need to be replaced. How difficult was swapping the cylinder? I know it doesn't seem difficult just some bolts but my main issue is I don't want brake fluid to spill out everywhere. Is this something I can do myself relatively cheap? Any chance you could point me in the right direction in terms of hunting for parts?
 

64ZCODE

Well-Known Member
I've been sending out inquiries to some mechanics and that's what they've been saying as well. He told me the booster would most likely need to be replaced. How difficult was swapping the cylinder? I know it doesn't seem difficult just some bolts but my main issue is I don't want brake fluid to spill out everywhere. Is this something I can do myself relatively cheap? Any chance you could point me in the right direction in terms of hunting for parts?
Agree with Critterpainer, try Rock Auto or even your local parts house should have an MC for your car. You'll need to disconnect the brake lines from the MC, then remove the bolts (most likely nuts on studs) holding the MC to the booster and the MC will come off. Brake fluid may leak a bit from the disconnected brake lines and if there is so much brake fluid in the booster that some leaks out. Just have some rags under the MC and booster and it shouldn't be too bad.

Removing and replacing the booster is more painful. So try to save it if you can by suctioning out the fluid and cleaning it out. Install the new MC, bleed the brake system, and see if the pedal is firm after about an inch of travel. If not, you may have air in the brake lines and so will have to continue the bleeding process. If it is firm, then start the car and see if the pedal is still firm and you'll know straight away if the existing booster is OK or not.
 
Agree with Critterpainer, try Rock Auto or even your local parts house should have an MC for your car. You'll need to disconnect the brake lines from the MC, then remove the bolts (most likely nuts on studs) holding the MC to the booster and the MC will come off. Brake fluid may leak a bit from the disconnected brake lines and if there is so much brake fluid in the booster that some leaks out. Just have some rags under the MC and booster and it shouldn't be too bad.

Removing and replacing the booster is more painful. So try to save it if you can by suctioning out the fluid and cleaning it out. Install the new MC, bleed the brake system, and see if the pedal is firm after about an inch of travel. If not, you may have air in the brake lines and so will have to continue the bleeding process. If it is firm, then start the car and see if the pedal is still firm and you'll know straight away if the existing booster is OK or not.
Thanks a ton! I'll give that a go when I get the chance and see if I can get it driving.
 
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