69 T Bird won't start after new battery

If you can't find one then see if it can be rebuilt. Some of the NAPA stores can sent it out to a rebuilder. Or google brake booster rebuilding or look in the services offered section of Hemming Motor News.
 

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Update on this one. After months of hunting a booster I've had no luck. Anyone have an idea on where I can potentially find one? Checked Rock Auto, Carrid, Stockauto and tons others as well as the local parts store. Looks like this part is rare for the 69. Last piece to the puzzle I need for the car to get going.
What you are going to have to do is take off your old booster and send it out to have it remanufactured. Thats what I did with mine (Picture below is of my original brake power booster now remanufactured). The last brake booster that was for sale on rock auto I picked up about 3 years ago (This should tell you how long its been unavailable). I got it when I went through rebuilding my 1969 thunderbird. Replacing the master cylinder is easy, but you must first bench bleed the master cylinder prior to putting it on the car. Its an easy process and there is many videos on youtube of how its done. The master cylinder is still available. Removing the booster is also pretty easy as well. Just a little tight up behind the dash depending if you got a bench seat or bucket seats.

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Most likely your lack of pedal is due to the MC leaking fluid into the booster. The MC in my '64 was leaking into the booster. I removed the defective MC and suctioned the the brake fluid out, then rinsed it with brake cleaner, repeat etc. Put a new MC on and all is well several years later. Some say if you have brake fluid in the booster you should replace it, but that's not my experience.
There's usually a rubber seal behind the MC where it attaches to the booster. If you had brake fluid in the booster probably a leak in that rubber seal and the MC. Sounds like it was leaking out the back of the MC also.
 
If you have brake fluid leaking out between the MC and booster it's usually a leaky and bad MC not booster. The squishing sound you're hearing means the booster is filled with vacuum and doing it's job. The seals inside the MC are causing it to leak between the MC and booster. Google MC for your year of car and some should pop up. Look for the cheapest one it's just as good as the most expensive one. Don't let people fool you and say the more expensive one's are higher quality and will last longer BLAH BLAH BLAH. Bench bleed the MC before you put it on. You might have to bleed all the wheel cylinders also. I have a special way of bleeding them also. Just ask
 
Power Brake Booster Exchange”....Portland Oregon
Have seen videos about them. Seem highly recommend.
They will rebuild your existing or may have a rebuilt in stock.
 
Power Brake Booster Exchange”....Portland Oregon
Have seen videos about them. Seem highly recommend.
They will rebuild your existing or may have a rebuilt in stock.

Right on thanks. Actually was able to find one on Ebay so I'm having it rebuilt. Should have it back this week then off to the shop for the repairs. Hopefully could be running in a couple weeks.
 
Right on thanks. Actually was able to find one on Ebay so I'm having it rebuilt. Should have it back this week then off to the shop for the repairs. Hopefully could be running in a couple weeks.
Obviously you didn't read my post saying I don't think the brake booster is your problem? If you have brake fluid leaking out between the master cylinder and booster and you can see it running down the bottom of the booster it's the inner seal in the master cylinder that's leaking not the booster. I had this problem and changed the master cylinder 100's of times. Boosters don't leak brake fluid. They work with air though the vacuum line attached to it.
 
Obviously you didn't read my post saying I don't think the brake booster is your problem? If you have brake fluid leaking out between the master cylinder and booster and you can see it running down the bottom of the booster it's the inner seal in the master cylinder that's leaking not the booster. I had this problem and changed the master cylinder 100's of times. Boosters don't leak brake fluid. They work with air though the vacuum line attached to it.
Thanks man. The issue was the booster needed to be replaced as well. Fluid got in there and turned the inside to mush. Either way I figured I'd slap a new booster in there to prevent having to touch the brakes for awhile. Thankfully the car is up and running again now I just have to tune the millions of other small problems it's got. Main issue now is I believe a power steering leak(not 100% on this as I had just refilled it before hand might've been just some fluid I spilled seeping through) and the speedometer doesn't work but at least the car can drive now.
 
Thanks man. The issue was the booster needed to be replaced as well. Fluid got in there and turned the inside to mush. Either way I figured I'd slap a new booster in there to prevent having to touch the brakes for awhile. Thankfully the car is up and running again now I just have to tune the millions of other small problems it's got. Main issue now is I believe a power steering leak(not 100% on this as I had just refilled it before hand might've been just some fluid I spilled seeping through) and the speedometer doesn't work but at least the car can drive now.
Power steering can leak from a number of places. also check the line going to your windshield washer as well (Yes the wind shield wiper motor is hydraulically powered). That line too can be frayed or cracked as well.
 
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