65 T-Bird power windows issue

[Burl]

have 12 volts into switches and when the switch is activated i get reading of 2-4 volts going out but no window movement. Get the same reading going out on back window switches but the windows work. I hear a faint noise inside doors when trying to use front windows but not much else. thought i ask on here before i start pulling off door linings etc...seems odd that both front stopped working at same time....any help would be greatly appreciated.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[biddle]

When you post, it's just like an email, you have a short subject and then the body of text. I edited your subject. Thanks for posting.

 

[BigClay]

We’re you working on something else in the car before this happened? It sounds like you disturbed a ground somewhere.
To test a motor, Take one door panel off, locate the wires running to the window motor and disconnect. With some small jumper wires, give the motor 12 volts. (There are 3 wires, one is a ground, the other 2 are up and down). If the window moves, you will have to trace the wiring loom back to the switch, looking for breaks/ shorts along the way.

 

[Burl]

Thank you BigClay, will do that

 

[BigClay]

Thank you BigClay, will do that

Forgot to say, the “different” wire at the plug will be the ground. (2 males, one female, the female is the ground. If 2 females, the male is the ground).

 

[Pearl 94]

I agree it is likely a ground problem.
I had a similar problem with my car, ('66) the motors didn't stop, just ran very slow. I added another ground wire, #10AWG with ring terminals on each end, and bolted it to the negative terminal lug on the battery, and then to a good, suitable place on the car body.
After that, ALL my lights in the car were brighter, and the window motors ran much faster.
Make sure if/when you find a bolt or hole in the frame, you remove any paint or dirt so the connection makes good contact.

 

[Burl]

Thanks for advice Poppy Red. Away at work til end of week,will be back on it then,,cheers

 

[Burl]

Removed passenger door liner to check motor, before i tested anything i gave motor a whack with screwdriver handle and window worked a treat. On the drivers side i whacked bottom of door with rubber hammer and it worked as well but only for a while , i had to hit door again to get working.....I have run earth wire from battery to body....there must be a crook contact in motors??...next move would be replace motors or maybe they can be cleaned /serviced.....your thoughts will be greatly appreciated..cheers

 

[BigClay]

Burl, before you spend money to replace the motors, get a Volt Meter and attach to the end of the wires in the door running to the motor. (Disconnected from motor during test).
Then try the switch in either direction. If you are not getting 12 volts, a new motor won’t help.

 

[Burl]

Yep, i see where you are coming from BigClay, will do that. If i'm not getting 12 volts ,will look at wiring to switch. Thanks again mate.

 

[Rom324]

I have had this problem on my 65. It's not the motors or the switches usually. It's a bad voltage drop after 50 years of old wiring. Some are running new power wires from the battery to a set of modern relays mounted in the trunk or wherever. Loosening the regulator bolts can help some. if you use a power probe or run a power wire from a disconnected window motor to the battery, the window should work OK. Of course without a relay you are bypassing fuses and breakers etc. Be careful not to touch ground with the power wire as a short can occur. Good luck.

 

[Burl]

I still haven't checked voltage at motors yet. Windows work 50% of the time. When they don"t work , a tap with rubber hammer at bottom of door and away they go. Also it seems the more the windows are used the better they are. Will check voltage at motors as soon as i can..cheers