64 won't start

[nobadlie]

I bought the 64 that had been sitting for at least 10 months, but the owner said that it ran strong. When I went to check the car out it wouldn’t start and after messing with it for awhile I determined that the coil was bad. When I went to pick the car up I brought a new coil and the car started right up. I let it warm up for a few minutes before leaving to bring it home. It ran ok to the gas station down the road needed to give some gas to make it to my house. Again it started just fine but just a little ways from the gas station it started misfiring and hesitating until it just stopped and wouldn’t start again. So I had to tow it home. I have changed the spark plugs and wires and made sure the gap was correct but no start. When I do try to start it for a second it sounds like it wants to turn over then I hear a scratching metal sound after that the starter sound like it want to engage but nothing happen. So I’m going to check the coil but after that I’m stuck any thoughts? Knowing when I bought it I was going to rebuild the engine anyways I just didn't want to do it this soon.

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[fordrodsteven]

Are you absolutely sure it's an electrical issue? I would check for spark. If you have spark I would look next to fuel. I would use a gas can or motorboat gas tank to insure new, good, gas is being used. If it still struggles I would check out the carburetor. Some gasket may have dried out while it was sitting. If I got it running I would immediately check vacuum to make sure there aren't any other gaskets dried out and leaking. Lack of vacuum will also affect timing advance and cause it to run poorly.

 

[Johnvins]

Check the fuel pump and line, then change the fuel filter. Take off air cleaner and spray some acetone in the carb with few drops of gas from an eye dropper and see if it starts. If there is no start it leads me to think it's in the direction of points, rotor and wires. Clean and re gap points and sand rotor contacts and try again. Let us know!

 

[infinite monkeys]

Change out the points and condenser. Check for spark and fuel. Good way to check fuel delivery is to put in an inline, clear filter. Use fresh fuel. How much of the old fuel is still in?

 

[GinettaG12P]

Just because you replaced the coil doesn't mean you've eliminated the coil as the problem. If some previous owner has removed the ballast resistor from the coil circuit, the new coil could already have failed.

 

[fordrodsteven]

GinettaG12P said; Just because you replaced the coil doesn't mean you've eliminated the coil as the problem. If some previous owner has removed the ballast resistor from the coil circuit, the new coil could already have failed.

I don't remember there being a ballast resistor on Ford products. If memory serves correct Ford uses a resistance wire in the ignition circuit (I think it's orange with a blue lead) and it's connected to the ignition switch "on" position. If I remember right the car will start on 12V then when the key goes to the on (run) position the coil gets a lesser voltage (6V?) to not burn up the points too quickly

 

[GinettaG12P]

OK, you might check that the resistor wire is still in place.