63' water pump should I replace, best brand? | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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63' water pump should I replace, best brand?

  • Thread starter Thread starter FoxyRoxy
  • Start date Start date
FoxyRoxy

FoxyRoxy

Reaction score
7
Thunderbird Year
1963
I am replacing all my seals, freeze plugs, and engine mounts. I figured while I'm at it replace the water pump. There are so many brands and price range im not sure what is best for the engine it is the 390.

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I am replacing all my seals, freeze plugs, and engine mounts. I figured while I'm at it replace the water pump. There are so many brands and price range im not sure what is best for the engine it is the 390.
Why replace the water pump? Is it leaking; berrings gone??? The 390 water pump is pretty much a standard casting unless you are looking at going electric?
 
I have been reading Hi Flow upgrade helps and pretty sure I have to remove it to replace the main front engine seals any
way. My expierence is when your in deep why not replace what you can. Of course there is the saying if it aint broke dont fix it sooooo hard call.
 
I have been reading Hi Flow upgrade helps and pretty sure I have to remove it to replace the main front engine seals any
way. My expierence is when your in deep why not replace what you can. Of course there is the saying if it aint broke dont fix it sooooo hard call.
I've had my 64 T-bird for 53 years and only replaced the water pump once! So, I tend to go with the "If it ain't broke" scenerio. Your choice!
 
I was planning on rebuilding everything I replaced. Ps, water pump, radiator and ac. New stuff for now to get her running reliably. I am having a custom backing plate made for the new pump out of 1/2" aluminum for a better seal.
 
I am not sure a 1/2 aluminum plate will give a "better"seal. I have never seen a water pump leak there yet.
However, since you're removing the front cover to replace the seal, now is the time to really inspect or replace the timing chain. A quick pretest is to remove the distributor cap, roll the motor over by hand with a breaker bar to TDC. Now watch the rotor carefully and move the crankshaft the opposite way. Stop the moment the rotor moves. Now look at the timing marks. If the crankshaft moved 10 degrees or more the timing chain needs replacing. Hope this helps.
 
I was using my experience of having leaking pto port covers on a Muncie trans. Replaced those thin tin ones with thick billet covers and no more leaks. Reviews on the summit pump said a couple leaked. Already did the timing chain . That is a good diagnostic trick. Thank you
 
A new pump from Napa will have the ceramic seals and be a much better pump.most 390 thirds use a clutch fan, so the water pump bearings do wear out quickly.
 
Yes they do. never shopped from Napa. I think just sealing it myself to make sure its good will be fine. I was wondering if I should replace the fan clutch. About to put it all back together after the paint cures.
 
Any recommendation on replacement brand? Ive been reading a Hayden 2710 is what I want.
 
Mine is a thermal. So no fluid. Not sure how to check if its bad.
 

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Your fan hub is full of viscous fluid. Hold the hub in one hand and turn the shaft with the other. Is there a fair amount of resistance? There should be. If storing for any length of time stand it on edge ( like mounted on the car).
 
Is that why it says "This Side Up"? Well the Hayden 2710 fits perfect and was only $35.
 

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