2005 limp mode codes P2104, P2111 & P2112

[bergmach74]

My son and I just replaced the fuel filter and right side fuel pump in our 2005. It sounds much better (no more loud whining), but when my wife took it for a “test drive” it immediately went into limp mode. Getting error codes P2104, P2111 & P2112. We’re unsure whether to believe that the TPS or throttle body went bad during the few days it wasn’t running, and wondering if it could be a bad fuel pump causing the problem. Could a bad fuel pump cause these error codes? Any other thoughts or suggestions on where to start troubleshooting? Thanks!

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[GaryP]

It could be as simple as needing to reset the ECM. Try disconnecting the positive battery cable for 10 mins. This should reset the system to the new device.

 

[biddle]

We’re unsure whether to believe that the TPS or throttle body went bad during the few days it wasn’t running, and wondering if it could be a bad fuel pump causing the problem. Could a bad fuel pump cause these error codes? Any other thoughts or suggestions on where to start troubleshooting? Thanks!

Over the years, there is rarely a problem with the Throttle body it is usually the TPS. Keep in mind, the car is old and more than one problem can crop up. IF it were me I would focus my efforts on troubleshooting the codes in question.

One member suggested cleaning the MAF using MAF cleaner- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-throttle-position-sensor-dy1164-dy967.10106/ THis is something I do on my cars as part of routine maintenance.

 

[bergmach74]

It could be as simple as needing to reset the ECM. Try disconnecting the positive battery cable for 10 mins. This should reset the system to the new device.

GaryP thanks! We did actually try this a couple different times and it didn’t change anything.

 

[GaryP]

Since the easy way didn't seem to work, the next step would be to test the TPS and that can be done with a multimeter. Just be careful removing the connector since it is probably 20 years old. There will be 4 pins (ground, hot, and two control wires). The test is simple and you can google the correct sequence for testing. It helps to have a partner operate the accelerator pedal, but you can do it manually on the throttle body. If that tests OK, the next step is the throttle body itself. I would not try cleaning it. Better to take that little problem to the dealer or a good mechanic. Just spraying cleaner into the body might work, but the risk is greater.

 

[biddle]

Just spraying cleaner into the body might work, but the risk is greater.

Risk of what? People clean throttle bodies all the time. I've removed and cleaned numerous throttle bodies over the years, and I actually just used MAF cleaner on my MAF sensor today on my Mustang. I do this once a year. The sensor gets dirty, it is supposed to be cleaned.


AI summary.


MAF cleaner restores, rather than increases, a car's original performance by removing dirt and oil from the sensor, ensuring accurate air intake readings for optimal fuel-air mixture. Cleaning a dirty mass air flow (MAF) sensor improves throttle response, reduces rough idling, and can fix acceleration hesitation, making the car feel faster. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

How MAF Cleaner Affects Performance

• Restores Power: A dirty sensor causes the engine to misread airflow, often resulting in a "rich" mixture (too much fuel) that sluggishly affects acceleration.
• Improves Fuel Efficiency: By providing accurate data to the engine control unit (ECU), a clean sensor helps optimize fuel consumption.
• Smoother Idle: Cleaning eliminates erratic RPMs caused by faulty sensor data. [2, 3, 6, 7, 8]

Important Tips for Success

• Use Specific Cleaner: Always use a dedicated Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, as others can damage the delicate sensor components.
• Do Not Touch: Never touch or wipe the delicate wires inside the sensor.
• Dry Completely: Allow the sensor to air dry completely before reinstallation to prevent damage.
• Frequency: It is generally recommended to clean the MAF sensor once a year or whenever the air filter is replaced. [2, 9, 10, 11, 12]

Note: If the MAF sensor is physically damaged or completely failed, cleaning it will not fix the issue, and replacement may be required. [12, 13]

 

[GaryP]

OK, OK. I only mentioned it because on drive-by-wire (like T-Bird) forcing the plate open or spraying too much cleaner into the throttle body can cause more problems than you fix. If you're comfortable with spraying the throttle body, go for it.

 

[doug7740]

According to TSB 12-8-1, this is how the throttle body should be cleaned.

Various vehicles may exhibit Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) P0505, P0506 and/or engine idle RPM fluctuation and hard starts. Some vehicles may also exhibit DTCs P2111 and P2112 after a keep alive memory (KAM) clear, battery disconnect or dead battery. On vehicles with over 10,000 miles, the issue may be caused by sludge buildup in the throttle body leading to less than desired airflow.

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1.Verify vehicle is listed in the vehicle application chart.

2.With the vehicle in park or neutral and the A/C off, start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature 77 °C (170 °F).

3.Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) scan tool or equivalent, monitor the PID values of IACTRIM and IACKAM2 while the engine is running. The sum of IACTRIM and IACKAM2 is the total IAC. Is the total IAC greater than 0.5 lb/mm?

a. Yes - proceed to Step 4.

b. No - this article does not apply. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics.

4.Remove the throttle body.

5.Using Motorcraft(R) Choke and Linkage Cleaner or equivalent, spray the throttle body plate and bore. Using a small, soft, solvent-resistant brush, clean the edges of the throttle plate and the mating surface of the throttle bore to remove all engine deposits. (Figures 1-2)





NOTE
AVOID SPRAYING CLEANER DIRECTLY INTO THROTTLE PLATE PIVOT SHAFT BORE.

6.Install the throttle body.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue