2005 jerked & went into limp mode with wrench | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

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2005 jerked & went into limp mode with wrench

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marianne
  • Start date Start date
RDH said:
My 2003 Bird was running great then one day going to a seminar overheated and when in the limp home mode, long story short, bad head gaskets at 45K and only owed it at that time for 3 months, and cost 5K to fix and the dealer would not give me any advice so I used my mechanic that does all my work on this car. Basically a Jaguar in a Ford Body, 3.9 engine and Jag trany, so heads shaved, Bolara exhaust and a few other parts and now 340 HP, and runs great
Click to expand...
The transmission isn't a Jaguar unit, it is the Ford 5R55 or, in Select Shift cars, the 5R55S. That transmission was used in many Ford cars, including the Lincoln LS, Mustang, and Explorer. In the Thunderbird, repairing the most common problems is complicated by the close quarters, requiring transmission removal to fix the common second-fifth gear servo failure. The servos are on top of the gearbox, and I understand that replacing them in a an Explorer is easy since there's room to work.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
On my 04 58k miles I don't recall the code I had the ABS light, wrench light, traction control, went in limp mode. It was the left rear wheel sensor. about $50 and took less then 30 min to install. From what I've read it is rarely the Throttle body.
 
Marianne said:
I am having the same problem. I have a 2005 Thunderbird with 34K miles. I was driving and the car jerked and went limp. The wrench light appeared on the dashboard. Is it the ignition coils or ignition throttle? Any info is much appreciated. Thank you.
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My ABS and Traction Control dashboard/instrument lights illuminated after driving my 03 Thunderbird for approximately 30 minutes from a cold start (parked overnight/cold engine). The same problem/symptom occurred after driving the car for approximately one minute when the car (engine) was warm. (All lights reset if/when ignition was shut off and car is restarted). Pulsing in the brake pedal and relay clicking from the trunk area of the car occurred sometimes (not always) just before the ABS and Traction Control lights illuminated. On rare occasion the wrench light illuminated on the dash along with the ABS and Traction Control lights. (The wrench light indicates the engine is in safe mode and limits the RPM’s). The OBD code thrown when this occurs indicated the passenger side rear wheel sensor was faulty (note: This code cannot be read with a low cost OBD reader like those used at an auto parts store. I had to go to my mechanic who had an OBD reader that could read all codes stored in the cars main computer memory.) I replaced the wheel sensor twice but the problem and symptoms did not change with new sensors. Based on the above information I removed the electronic module from the ABS system located in the engine compartment and sent mine to Module Masters who repaired it for $250 (+ shipping) and had it back to me within a week. I installed the unit and the problem is gone. Removal of the module is very easy. There is a large plastic box with fuses located on the passenger side wheel well in the engine compartment. This fuse box is easily lifted from its tray and can be held off to the side with a bungee cord. Remove the fuse box tray by removing the 3 bolts that hold it in place. The ABS control module can then easily be removed by removing the 3 screws that hold it in place. (you will need a #5 “E” socket to remove the ABS module screws). Once the screws are removed the module is easily pulled off the ABS manifold.
 
All: I keep experiencing same issue with my '04 Bird (30k miles). That is, sudden slow down, wrench, Check engine light. To be clear, I have experienced this since buying Da Bird used 8-years ago. Da Bird is a sunny day driver so I haven't really been bothered too much, but now, it's getting really annoying. I have replaced all plugs and COPs beginning of this year because this keeps happening (did this myself). the annoying part is being stuck in traffic having to stop, shut down, restart, then I'm on my way. the issue happened 3 times yesterday (was a sunny day here in Ohio)

Just received Fixd scanner to get help resolve. Codes read P-2111 Throttle Actuator Control stuck open; P-2106 Forced Limited power; P-2104 Forced Idle. Do I need to replace Throttle Body? I keep seeing Throttle issues in the forum but nothing seems to point me in the right direction. I do want to be armed with information if I have to take to a FORD dealership. On that note, should I be looking at taking to a LINCOLN dealer for resolution?

Thoughts?
 
Steve Bower said:
I keep a OBD ll tool in my car at all times. When I experienced the same symptoms I plugged it in, cleared the code and all is ok. My case happened after leaving the car at idle for a extended period of time but once I cleared the code all was ok.
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Which OBD scanner do you have? Looking to purchase one.
 
biddle said:
Top of the line- https://amzn.to/3dit2oT
Cheap for android phone- https://amzn.to/2zfy2fr (requires Torque Pro App)
Cheap for crapple phone- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RMMMXL/?tag=thunderbirdforum-20

Click to expand...
That's the scanner I have, its "value added" is in the cloud database that contains info for particular cars when a specific error code arises. It'll tell you a PXXXX code is frequently (or seldom) found in a 2002 Thunderbird and the top 5 fixes are so and so... As an example.. It'll also indicate codes that you can basically clear without issue that pop up occasionally.
 
'04 Da Bird - SEEMS LIKE I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM! NEW TPS INSTALLED! Codes read P-2111 Throttle Actuator Control stuck open; P-2106 Forced Limited power; P-2104 Forced Idle.

At first I thought I'd needed to replace throttle body. = $$$ Further research uncovered that Ford's throttle position sensors (or TPS) has/had issues in model years surrounding our Gen 11 Birds. That is, Fords with electronic throttle controls.

Upon inspection (taking engine cover off) I discovered I had the dreaded 1st generation TPS. (easy to spot, it has a Trapezoidal body). With throttle issue codes being thrown, I decided to take a chance and replace it. That's when I discovered that Ford TPS's are now on their 3rd generation (which has a rectangular body and a bit thicker than Gen 1 and cost $85 Autozone). 3rd generation, that tells you something. Although it's up top the engine, the water inlet is in the way, preventing a rather simple replacement. Took me about 90 minutes to replace. It's attached with Torx screws so you'll need to grab a set of those (looks like Allen wrenches) and be a little creative getting at the bottom screw. The secret is to heat up the throttle body near the screws, above 130 degrees F to "melt' the thread locking compound. You must do this or you're asking for trouble. I found out the hard way. Broke the top screw off. I had to break off the old TPS, heat up throttle body housing (with wife's old hair dryer, easy to do with TPS gone), then screws came right off. The broken one had enough thread sticking out to grab with vice grips. Replaced TPS, screws torqued down appropriately (the bottom one is a bitch, 1/4 turn at a time), plug connector back in and done.

Went for a 150 mile test drive this afternoon experiencing absolutely NO issues. Did city driving where most issues cropped up, country and interstate driving = NO ISSUES! No rough idling, power loss, etc. Ran like a Gen 11 Bird with only 30k miles (current miles) should.

If you're experiencing similar issues and have already replaced COPS / plugs, look at replacing the TPS, especially if it's a 1st generation TPS. Image of Gen 1 attached.
IMG_2028.jpg
 
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My 03 Bird runs great until it , without warning goes into limp mode showing a wrench icon in the dash. I can shut and restart the engine and then all is fine again until the next time. This seems to happen when I accelerate and the car has been running for bout 30 minutes or more. My mechanic has changed the throttle body at $1100.00 and the electronic gas peddle. No improvement. He has scanned, recorded, etc. for days with no codes indicating a problem. He indicates the car is perfect but this limp mode issue can happen at any time putting me in danger on the highway or in traffic. Any information, suggestions much appreciated.
 
Joey D said:
My 03 Bird runs great until it , without warning goes into limp mode showing a wrench icon in the dash. I can shut and restart the engine and then all is fine again until the next time. This seems to happen when I accelerate and the car has been running for bout 30 minutes or more. My mechanic has changed the throttle body at $1100.00 and the electronic gas peddle. No improvement. He has scanned, recorded, etc. for days with no codes indicating a problem. He indicates the car is perfect but this limp mode issue can happen at any time putting me in danger on the highway or in traffic. Any information, suggestions much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Read the posts above on TPS- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...nt-into-limp-mode-with-wrench.8837/post-61268

Have you inspected your spark plugs? See the COPS thread- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...underbird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/#post-31709
 
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Marianne said:
I am having the same problem. I have a 2005 Thunderbird with 34K miles. I was driving and the car jerked and went limp. The wrench light appeared on the dashboard. Is it the ignition coils or ignition throttle? Any info is much appreciated. Thank you.
Click to expand...
My 2005 did that in 2008 as I was driving around town, wrench light and limp mode. Brought it to the dealership 2 days after my extended warranty ran out and was told it was my throttle body which would cost in excess of a $1,500 to repair. It actually turned out to be the middle sensor on my throttle body intake. An oxygen sensor I believe. Cost was around $300. If not mistaken.
As a side note to this happening, I used to get 30mph to the gallon and when they changed that part I went to about 20mph to the gallon. I know nobody believes I actually got that kind of mileage, however when you go 300 miles and add 10 gallons of gas it’s fairly easy to explain. Good luck with your issue.
 
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