2003 Engine Cranks but will not start

[sugabear]

This no start has happened before and i would just keep trying to start the car a few more times and it would start but now nothing. it has power lights come on horn blows but the engine wont make a sound PLEASE HELP!!!

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[biddle]

This no start has happened before and i would just keep trying to start the car a few more times and it would start but now nothing. it has power lights come on horn blows but the engine wont make a sound.

Sounds like your fuel pump was failing and finally bit the dust. Another member recently posted recenty his fuel pump would only work after a charged battery, so you might want to try that to see if you can get it started to take it in for repair (assuming your problem is a fuel pump)- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com/threads/2002-fuel-pump-only-works-w-charged-battery.14885/

Fuel pumps are a common issue.

 

[doug7740]

This no start has happened before and i would just keep trying to start the car a few more times and it would start but now nothing. it has power lights come on horn blows but the engine wont make a sound PLEASE HELP!!!

When you said the engine won't start, does that mean that you don't hear the starter turning the engine over?

Please explain further what you mean by the engine won't make a sound.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[este46]

Well, I too now join the 2003 bird won’t start brigade. I was having a misfire in the engine due to an ignition coil, so replaced the driver’s side 4 coils and plugs. There was some oil in the spark plug well, so I made an appointment with someone more knowledgeable. It drove fine in the days leading to my appointment, but Ohio randomly went from 65 to 30 degrees outside, and then she wouldn’t start. Starter cranks, I hear the fuel pump turning on, but no ignition.
Any help would be very very much appreciated!

I have a 2002 Bird and I have recently had the similar problem. Cranks but no start. I have a battery maintainer connected and with the charge that gave to the battery, it still only cranked but no start. Try this as it is a no cost shot in the dark as it worked for me. I thought that there was not enough juice going in to generate an ignition. Charge the battery to the fullest with a good charger and then try to start it. This has worked for me to my amazement. The cold weather also contributed .
Hope this helps.
Sam Tirello

 

[sugabear]

When you said the engine won't start, does that mean that you don't hear the starter turning the engine over?

Please explain further what you mean by the engine won't make a sound.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

the starter doesnt turn over the engine doesent turn over nothing

 

[doug7740]

If I understand correctly when you turn the key to start you hear nothing and the lights are bright; meaning the battery is fully charged. If that is the case try some basic things first.

If the starter doesn't crank the engine when the selector lever is placed in park, have you tried starting the engine with the selector lever is placed in neutral?

If you look at page 64 of your owner's manual you will discover that your car is equiped with a passive anti-theft system. Your keys are programmed and coded to your vehicle. Its possable that one of your keys is defective. Your car came with two coded keys, have you tried starting the engine with the other key?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[hendersonx5]

Hi Everyone!

Inherited ‘04 from dad. It had sat up for several years. Wouldnt start so we did the following…

We replaced fuel pump and transfer unit.
Put 93 gas and seafoam
Charged battery
And it turns over but wont start.
Sprayed some starting fluid, it would start then die once burnt off.
Confirmed fuel pump is working

Any ideas?

 

[doug7740]

Since you sprayed some starting fluid and the engine would start momentarily, tells me that the cause of your no start condition is fuel related. You said that the fuel pump is working, how did you determine this? There is a pressure test point with a schrader fitting in the fuel rail that relieves fuel pressure and measures the fuel injector supply pressure, did you check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve with a fuel pressure gauge? Did you look at the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch to make sure the red button is depressed? When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[hendersonx5]

Hi Doug,
The red button is depressed.
Put the pressure gauge on and getting 55psi.

Would next step be to clean injectors?

 

[doug7740]

No, you don't know if you have the proper circuit voltage at the injectors yet or if the drivers in the PCM are grounding the injectors. The next step would be to check for faults stored in all control modules. Fault codes might help you determine the cause of your no start condition. Note any DTCs and freeze frame data that are stored before clearig the fault codes. After clearing the fault codes does the engine start? After clearing the fault codes do any fault codes return?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[hendersonx5]

Unfortunately, when we hook up the code reader there are no codes that come up. ?‍♀️

We did hook a multimeter to the wires running to the injectors and showed voltage.

 

[doug7740]

You can't use a code reader to diagnose your no start condition, you need a scan tool that can at least read the data stream.

How did you check for voltage at the injectors? With the key on and the injector disconnected, you should have greater then 10.5 volts at terminal 2 of the fuel injector connector and 0 volts at terminal 1 of the fuel injector connector. To test to see if the Powertrain Control Module is controlling the injectors, connect a noid light at the injector connecter and while cranking the engine you should see the noid light flash.

Here is another way to see if the Powertrain Control Module is controlling the injectors. Since you have a pressure gauge connected to the schrader fitting in the fuel rail, make sure the fuel pressure is between 39 and 65 psi, and disconnect the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch. Crank the sngine and there should be a pressure drop of greater than 5 psi while cranking the engine.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[hendersonx5]

Back at it this weekend.
Put a noid light on injector, we had a very faint light. Def not a bright, strobe light.

Will test injectors in the morning.

We have an OBDII scanner, when connected it does not throw any codes, tried it again tonight. I guess it is plausable the scanner is a POS. ?

We did notice when cranking the RPMs stay at 0. But we have spark, so Im not sure it can be the crankshaft position sensor or could it even with spark.

 

[doug7740]

Why and how are you going to test the injectors? Since you told me that the noid light was not a bright flashing light, that tells me that your problem is not with the injectors, but with a voltage drop on the positive circuit going to the injectors. The voltage to the injectors originates from fuse #5 in the Auxiliary Junction Box that is located in the right side of the engine compartment. From there it travels along the green/red wire to the positive side of the injectors. Fuse #5 also powers the variable valve timing solenoids and terminal #6 of the mass airflow sensor. Lets start by checking fuse #5 in the Auxiliary Junction Box and then working your way towards the injectors.

Since you said that the car has been sitting for several years, its possible that the wiring has been damaged by rodents.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[butch]

Ran fine, Parked it, Two weeks later, Cranks but will not start, Had it to two repair shops and they can not find the problem, REM and PCM have been removed and checked, Both found to be o.k. no problems found, Car only has a little over 20,00 miles on it, Can someone help me with this problem or let me know of someone in Ft. Myers FL. area that could help?

 

[tbird]

Had it to two repair shops and they can not find the problem

Did they test the fuel pump? This is a common issue especially after the car sits.

Car only has a little over 20,00 miles on it,

Yes, but it's two decades old.

 

[madman]

My T-bird's been garaged for the past 6 months. Engine turns over well, but won't start. (There's a check engine light on). what's the most likely solution?

 

[biddle]

My T-bird's been garaged for the past 6 months. Engine turns over well, but won't start. (There's a check engine light on). what's the most likely solution?

Buy an ODBII code reader like Blue Driver and it will tell you what is wrong. There is really no reason not to own such a useful device that is easy to use. Also, search posts and read before posting, as noted about since you let your car sit for months, it could be the fuel pump.

 

[blue03]

My 03 bird has something going on that’s keeping it from starting. When the key is turned to the position right before cranking, a blower turns on under the hood and winds up to full speed before cranking. If the car is cranked while the blower is active, it will not start no matter what. It will crank, but sounds like it’s getting no fuel. If you mess with it for long enough (~30 minutes), it will eventually not engage the blower and then the car will fire in 2-3 tries. This means turning the car from the 1st to 2nd position a ridiculous amount of times. Obviously this isn’t sustainable, but the issue is certainly linked to whether the blower decides to run or not. I am relatively good at DIY mechanic projects and can check anything I can reach. I am hoping this makes sense to someone with more expertise as I’m not familiar with the mechanisms that align to fire the car up. Let me know if anyone has any questions. This would be a blessing to fix. Cold temperatures don’t seem to help.

 

[Gunther10]

My 03 bird has something going on that’s keeping it from starting. When the key is turned to the position right before cranking, a blower turns on under the hood and winds up to full speed before cranking. If the car is cranked while the blower is active, it will not start no matter what. It will crank, but sounds like it’s getting no fuel. If you mess with it for long enough (~30 minutes), it will eventually not engage the blower and then the car will fire in 2-3 tries. This means turning the car from the 1st to 2nd position a ridiculous amount of times. Obviously this isn’t sustainable, but the issue is certainly linked to whether the blower decides to run or not. I am relatively good at DIY mechanic projects and can check anything I can reach. I am hoping this makes sense to someone with more expertise as I’m not familiar with the mechanisms that align to fire the car up. Let me know if anyone has any questions. This would be a blessing to fix. Cold temperatures don’t seem to help.

Step 1: Amazon for a Blue Driver OBD II code reader. Step 2: Use it. Become familiar with it and the codes it will provide and your relationship with your T-Bird will significantly; she will tell you why she feels cranky and you can then comfort her and assuage her needs. No foolin'. Throwing parts, money, and time will only frustrate you both.