2002 oil filler tube removal

T
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Joined
Mar 12, 2021
Thunderbird Year
2002
I am trying to remove the COP cover on the driver's side. I am trying to gain some access to the bottom screw at the firewall.
Does anyone know how to remove the oil filler tube from the valve cover?
I've seen some pixelated pictures of the tube, but no indication is given as to removing it. I sure don't want to break it.
 
Summarize what your post is about in your subject. I've revised it for you. Also, since we are an all Ford Thunderbird site, the make and model can be omitted.
model-year-TBF.jpg
 
I am trying to remove the COP cover on the driver's side. I am trying to gain some access to the bottom screw at the firewall.
Does anyone know how to remove the oil filler tube from the valve cover?
I've seen some pixelated pictures of the tube, but no indication is given as to removing it. I sure don't want to break it.
I bought a extra small 7mm combo wrench to get to that one.
 
You cannot remove the oil fill tube, when tube is installed the tabs snap into place and lock.

You may be able to remove tube from underneath by carefully prying up on the tabs, but the
tabs may break.
 
You need a 1/4" socket swivel joint or a swivel extension for the bottom rear screw, Just leaned the dip stick tube toward the firewall to access that screw.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
You cannot remove the oil fill tube, when tube is installed the tabs snap into place and lock.

You may be able to remove tube from underneath by carefully prying up on the tabs, but the
tabs may break.
Yes you can only remove the oil filler tube once you take off the valve cover. If you try to do it without taking the cover off you risk breaking the tabs off and then the valve cover will certainly need to come off!
It's also a good time to replace the rubber O- ring on the oil filler cos that will be leaking at some stage.
Ian
 
I also had to go buy a small combo wrench to get that bolt out. And yes, a small 1/4 swivel will be needed.
 
Success!

Thanks so much for the quick responses.
I was poised to get the offset boxed ends from Harbor Freight(still probably need them) but a neighbor had a 3 1/2” boxed/open 7mm that he was able to break it loose with. I was able to get my fingertips on it to back it out the rest of the way. See picture. I had tried every combination of U-joint, socket, extension, and flex extension but nothing worked. Btb, the flex extension on a battery powered drill worked great on these fine thread screws.
I did not have much trouble with the passenger-side bank. Spark plug tubes 2 and 3 had only about a teaspoon of oil each. Not sure what I will find on this side. It looks like a couple of COPs have been replaced already (6&7). Replacing the COPs don't look like such a big deal, but a valve cover replacement certainly is! There's a lot of stuff in the way on this side of the motor. And then there's still the problem of the screws at the firewall. Even if I can remove it, there's replacing it and setting to the right torque. All bridges to be crossed.

Again, thanks for your help.
Looks like I'll need to tackle the hydraulic fan, so I'll be back.

Pic: Ready for the last couple of turns.
 

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I did not have much trouble with the passenger-side bank. Spark plug tubes 2 and 3 had only about a teaspoon of oil each. Not sure what I will find on this side. It looks like a couple of COPs have been replaced already (6&7). Replacing the COPs don't look like such a big deal, but a valve cover replacement certainly is!
Pete,

The valve cover gaskets are allowing oil to enter the spark plug wells and are causing degradation of the ignition coil boot, resulting in an ignition misfire. The cause of your problem are the valve cover gaskets. If you don't replace the valve cover gaskets you will be replacing the ignition coils again.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
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