2002-2003-2004-2005 Ford Thunderbird Control Arm With Ball Joint MCSOE38 MCSOE39 Motorcraft | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2002-2003-2004-2005 Ford Thunderbird Control Arm With Ball Joint MCSOE38 MCSOE39 Motorcraft

biddle

biddle

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2003
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Have replaced three of the four struts, the front suspension was good except for the sway bar links. The rear
suspension was all bad, believe was original. Here is a photo of the left rear all done. Only have the right
rear to finish, and car will be all good. Look at how bad the ball joint boots were in the two photos.


bad ball joint.jpgbad ball joint1.jpgbad ball joints replaced.jpg
 
When going over speed bumps etc, I hear a squeaking noises from the suspension. Are there any components that can be greased, or do they need to be replaced?
Replace them. Plus the car will drive much better and safer. Any mechanic can do it. Parts are all available. I did all my own. Tire shops like to gouge you but are your best bet for diagnosis and repaur if you can't do it yourself. Shop around for the best proce, and let them know that you are doing that.
 
When going over speed bumps etc, I hear a squeaking noises from the suspension. Are there any components that can be greased, or do they need to be replaced?
Replace the rear upper and lower control arms. One of my Birds did that, and when replacing found the larger bushings were very deteriorated.
New control arms made all the difference, also change out the struts-shocks if they are old or original.
 
Looking at the Ford Tbird 2005 manual page 204-02-8 it states the lower control arm bushings are not serviceable and the arm must be replaced. A new arm isn't cheap over $400. Moog and others sell the bushings, has anyone replaced the bushings? Were there any issues in doing so? What tools were used? Has anyone had bushings replace at a dealer? Planning to do a complete rebuild front and rear plus shocks, Replacement bushing $200 and change lower arms around $1K
Thanks in advance
Dave
 
Just replaced the control arm with ball joints, tie rods, and sway bars on the front suspension and various parts on the rear suspension (sway bars and tie rods) due to deteriorated bushings and boots on my 39,000-mile 2005 > a world of difference in the ride.
I bought the Front Driver & Passenger Side Upper 2-Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set about 6 months ago, my son installed them, and they work perfectly.
 
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Thanks Jerry, enjoy your ride! I'm colleting parts hope to start early fall. Still looking for anyone with information on replacing the lower rear control arm bushings.
 
Well, after much agonizing and shopping, I ordered the 6 bushings for the back, lower control arms (both sides) for my 2004. Not sure yet how to get them out and in but I have a 12 ton shop press I am hoping will work. Also ordered the back, upper arms (both sides). Once in, the back will be 100% except for the sway bar clamp things. That will be a later project. Still have the front to finish up. There are still some mysteries here. When it's all done I hope to write it up.
 
I have talked about this before but don't know how to find it and add on. So will start anew. I am renewing/refurbishing all suspension parts.
There are 8 control arms. Rear, each one with two ball joints and three rubber boots. A double boot is required for the ball joints with a bolt through the middle. Front control arms and ball joints will be covered later. There is a sway bar tie rod at each wheel with two ball joints and two rubber boots. There is one steering tie rod at each front wheel with one ball joint and one rubber boot.
We will start with the driver side rear tire. Previously I replaced the strut assy which means new shock and new spring. You can reuse the springs if you are up to the job of spring compressers, etc. I also replaced the sway bar tie rod with two ball joints and two rubber boots and the alignment tie rod with two ball jts. and 3 rubber boots. In the last few days I have removed and reinstalled the upper control arm with a new part that included ball jts. and a rubber bushing. More on that later.
Today I removed the lower control arm with two ball joints, 4 rubber boots and one rubber bushing. The control arms are a triangular affair with nuts and bolt accessible. Have 15 to 21 mm sockets and closed/open end wrenches available. For the left rear wheel only, you will have to loosen the upper caliper bolt and remove the lower one so you can swing it fwg to allow removal of the spindle ball jt. The other side is opposite. Must be an assy. line thing.
Once removed you must press out two ball joints and one rubber bushing or buy a whole new assy. that is expensive. Two ball jt. and one rubber bushing cost $20 each vs close to $400 for a complete new assy. I have a 12 ton shop press and home made mandrels and sucessfully removed the two ball jt. bushings. The rubber bushing will have to be destructively removed tomorrow.
The hard part: pressing in new bushings. But first bead blast yhe control arm, hone the bores and taper the bushings. I'll let you know how it goes. Pics to follow.
 
Attention; Danger: So today I took out the right front control arms and installed the new upper. There are a number of times you have to get up from the floor. One of the easiest hand-grabs is the gas strut. If you grab th upper part the hood will begin to close. After about 6" to 10" of movement it will continue to close rapidly. If you are not quick enough your fingers may be caught and the hood could go far enough to catch the safety latch. You are then pinned to the car. I had left my cell under the hood on the plastic shrouding. I was home alone.
I am going to make a stick that fits snugly to prevent this from happening.
 
Have replaced three of the four struts, the front suspension was good except for the sway bar links. The rear
suspension was all bad, believe was original. Here is a photo of the left rear all done. Only have the right
rear to finish, and car will be all good. Look at how bad the ball joint boots were in the two photos.


View attachment 24251View attachment 24252View attachment 24253
Hey just a reminder when you tighten the bolts on those control arms where they mount to the chassis, make sure your Hub is jacked up to ride height. About 15 and 1/2 in from the center of the axle to the edge of the fender well above.
 
I see many parts kits for the 2003 listed on amazon. Are there any that are recommended? I'm wanting to do both front and rear.
 
My first post! I just bought a 2003, and it may require a suspension replacement. Do you think the above kit is of good quality? Has anyone installed it and can vouch that it's on par? The eBay listing states that 10 kits are remaining in stock, and over 50 kits were sold, so I figure that some went to folks posting on this forum...
 
My first post! I just bought a 2003, and it may require a suspension replacement. Do you think the above kit is of good quality? Has anyone installed it and can vouch that it's on par? The eBay listing states that 10 kits are remaining in stock, and over 50 kits were sold, so I figure that some went to folks posting on this forum...
FYI those are almost sold out and because of this car's age, it's very probable they won't restock them. Parts are getting harder to come by because they didn't make very many of these cars so the parts producers don't want to fool with it.
 
I see it written above that the bushing are not serviceable but see where the bushings are sold individually as if someone must be pressing them.....had anyone tried? I have a press but was curious if heating and such must be done.

@Bobwheeler , how'd the pressing of the bushings go? I've got a larger press also and curious how many hands you need to hold the control arm while you press.
 
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