I have talked about this before but don't know how to find it and add on. So will start anew. I am renewing/refurbishing all suspension
parts.
There are 8 control arms. Rear, each one with two ball joints and three rubber boots. A double boot is required for the ball joints with a bolt through the middle. Front control arms and ball joints will be covered later. There is a
sway bar tie rod at each wheel with two ball joints and two rubber boots. There is one steering
tie rod at each front wheel with one ball joint and one rubber boot.
We will start with the driver side rear tire. Previously I replaced the strut assy which means new shock and new spring. You can reuse the springs if you are up to the job of spring compressers, etc. I also replaced the
sway bar tie rod with two ball joints and two rubber boots and the alignment
tie rod with two ball jts. and 3 rubber boots. In the last few days I have removed and reinstalled the upper control arm with a new
part that included ball jts. and a rubber bushing. More on that later.
Today I removed the lower control arm with two ball joints, 4 rubber boots and one rubber bushing. The control arms are a triangular affair with nuts and bolt accessible. Have 15 to 21 mm sockets and closed/open end wrenches available. For the left rear wheel only, you will have to loosen the upper caliper bolt and remove the lower one so you can swing it fwg to allow removal of the spindle ball jt. The other side is opposite. Must be an assy. line thing.
Once removed you must press out two ball joints and one rubber bushing or buy a whole new assy. that is expensive. Two ball jt. and one rubber bushing cost $20 each vs close to $400 for a complete new assy. I have a 12 ton shop press and home made mandrels and sucessfully removed the two ball jt. bushings. The rubber bushing will have to be destructively removed tomorrow.
The hard
part: pressing in new bushings. But first bead blast yhe control arm, hone the bores and taper the bushings. I'll let you know how it goes. Pics to follow.