2002-05 Thunderbird front windshield chrome reveal

derjimmer

derjimmer

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Thunderbird Year
2002
I'm looking for instructions on how to replace the chrome reveal for my 2002 Ford Thunderbird. I want to replace all three pieces. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Moderator Note: Instructions here- 2002 Thunderbird front windshield chrome reveal
Purchase Links:
Top Molding- 3w6z-7650046-aa 83.11 - https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7650046-aa&campid=5338236430

Left side- 3w6z-7603137-ba 94.25- https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7603137-ba&campid=5338236430

Right side- 3w6z-7603136-ba 94.25- https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7603136-ba&campid=5338236430
s-l1600.jpg s-l1600 (1).jpg

If you are looking for the hardtop chrome accent- click here
 
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Top Molding- 3w6z-7650046-aa 83.11 - https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7650046-aa&campid=5338236430

Left side- 3w6z-7603137-ba 94.25- https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7603137-ba&campid=5338236430

Right side- 3w6z-7603136-ba 94.25- https://www.ebay.com/sch/?kw=3w6z-7603136-ba&campid=5338236430


"If you have not done this type of thing before then it can be a bit un-nerving. The interior A-pillar moldings as well as the header moldings have to be popped off. Then you need some deep dish metric sockets to remove the bolts that are connected to studs that are affixed the stainless exterior moldings. Once the small bolts are removed then the moldings easily come off. You remove the side stainless molding first and then the center piece”


pop off the interior molding to expose studs projecting through frame . loosen the metric nuts and slip off the chrome surround do all in reverse to reattach. REPLACE:

The interior A-pillar moldings as well as the header moldings have to be removed. The interior A-pillar moldings pull out and back towards you. Use deep dish metric sockets to remove the bolts that are connected to studs that are affixed to the chrome exterior moldings, put a piece of tape in the socket to prevent the nut from falling out. beside the two nuts, there is a screw on the bottom of them outside. Once the small bolts are removed and the screws then the moldings easily come off. You remove the side chrome moldings first and then the center piece. Pull the header molding dawn to get to the nuts.
 
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Not cheapness hard to find. Mine was all corroded. You have to remove the hardware on the inside that covers the nuts that hold the Crome on. Go to a glass/windshield dealer and ask for help. I bought a complete dealer tech manual that is specifically for my bird. It has all my data. Serial #, gears, I mean everything. I can get you info to get one.
 
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I just replaced mine on a 2005. It’s easy to do. Just pop off the plastic moldings surrounding the inside of the windshield. There are three pieces. This reveals the bolts that hold the reveal moldings. I think there are two each on the sides and four on the top. Use a deep socket to remove nuts. The three reveals come right off. Put new ones on. Done.
 
Helpful hints:
1. You do have to removed the inside trim and the nuts from both side reveal parts even if you are just replacing the top one.
2. AND use a piece of tape in your deep socket to hold those nuts, or you WILL lose them inside the structure.
3. If you lose the nuts, the heads on standard nuts that fit the same thread require a larger socket - which WILL NOT fit into the tiny original holes for those side ones.
Ask me how I know................... :-|
 
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Here is what I learned from replacing the reveal (and also what NOT to do):


  1. I ordered the chrome reveal
  2. You will need two socket sizes: a. 7/32 and b. 8mm Deep socket.
  3. Other helpful tools are, needle nose pliers, headlamp, flathead screwdriver.
  4. The nuts are flanged on the end. In taking them off, I managed to lose 3 of the original six. So, the replacement nut is…I forgot. However, whatever fits an 8mm socket is what you will need. Oh, recommend three or four extra nuts.
  5. MOST frustrating is realizing that 3/4 of the threads are a smaller size and not till you get to the base of the screws will the 8mm “nut” seat.
  6. When removing the flanged nuts on the posts, be extremely careful as you pull the deep socket out to prevent it from falling down the post - never to be seen of again.
  7. When reattaching the side trim, start at the top and work your way down so that trim will cover the front reveal, preventing it from gapping. The last screw is the 7/32 that attaches to the door frame.
  8. Hot tip: cover the deep socket nut with your thumb. I think you can guess why.
  9. Use care when removing and securing poly trim on posts and header. On the side posts, start at the bottom
  10. There was one hole at the top, right center that required a needle nose pliers to delicately seat. Don’t wanna do that again anytime soon.
  11. Pictures to follow.
 
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Changed all 3 pieces on my car a number of years ago. The hardest part is getting the 3 or 4 tiny nuts off the bolts that go through the frame. You’ll need a 1/4 inch drive ratchet set with deep dish sockets. I also recommend putting something in the socket like wax to keep from loosing the nuts down the inside of the frame. Also be extremely careful while removing the inside plastic trim pieces. I would recommend doing this in warmer weather because plastic can be quite brittle in the cold. Just make sure all the plastic tabs line up before lightly tapping inside trim pieces back in place. I saved my old pieces in hopes of having chrome redone. Plus parts are getting harder to find..good luck
 
Changed all 3 pieces on my car a number of years ago. The hardest part is getting the 3 or 4 tiny nuts off the bolts that go through the frame. You’ll need a 1/4 inch drive ratchet set with deep dish sockets. I also recommend putting something in the socket like wax to keep from loosing the nuts down the inside of the frame. Also be extremely careful while removing the inside plastic trim pieces. I would recommend doing this in warmer weather because plastic can be quite brittle in the cold. Just make sure all the plastic tabs line up before lightly tapping inside trim pieces back in place. I saved my old pieces in hopes of having chrome redone. Plus parts are getting harder to find..good luck
EXACTLYI! Wish I thought of that wax idea. The nuts are not magnetic.
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I do have four more pics but have exceeded my limit. You may shudder when you see the flathead prying on the reveal. I did. However, I went very slow and carefully to get enough friction to get the end of the flange nut off. It will make sense when you are attempting to remove it. Hopefully, never again. On the other hand, I know what to do next time!

Surprise! I was able to sneak them in.
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My 2004 is beginning to show corrosion. Does anyone know what it is about these parts that make them deteriorate more than other chrome components on the Tbird or other cars for that matter?
Thanks for the pictures!
 
Anyone know of a fix for the chrome bubbling? Seems like Thunderbird Concepts used to have some kind of cover for it but they’re not around anymore.
 
Anyone know of a fix for the chrome bubbling? Seems like Thunderbird Concepts used to have some kind of cover for it but they’re not around anymore.
Some people have sanded and filled them where necessary and painted them body color.
 
I showed this to a car detailer, he immediately said the problem is the rubber weather stripping next to the chrome holds water from rain, or from washing the car. Once the water gets under there it is only a matter of time before the chrome peels, then your done. The detailer was at my house treating my leather seats in my everyday cars.

He said and I agree never get that part of the car wet, including where the convertible top meets the car body.

When I wash my T Birds I never get the windshield, or the convertible top wet. This must help because both of my T Birds have original chrome, and original COPS. Also I wash my T Birds maybe two or three times a year.
 
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I showed this to a car detailer, he immediately said the problem is the rubber weather stripping next to the chrome
holds water from rain, or from washing the car. Once the water gets under there it is only a matter of time before
the chrome peels, then your done. The detailer was at my house treating my leather seats in my everyday cars.

He said and I agree never get that part of the car wet, including where the convertible top meets the car body.

When I wash my T Birds I never get the windshield, or the convertible top wet. This must help because both of
my T Birds have original chrome, and original COPS. Also I wash my T Birds maybe two or three times a year.
I guess you never drive it in the rain? What happens if you're on a road trip and it rains?
 
I guess you never drive it in the rain? What happens if you're on a road trip and it rains?
I have owned this T Bird for 19 years, no rain yet. One or two rains is not going to hurt, it is the repeated washings, and so on.
 
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Anyone know of a fix for the chrome bubbling? Seems like Thunderbird Concepts used to have some kind of cover for it but they’re not around anymore.
Thanks for the feedback. I found a new/OEM chrome piece for the top/middle section (the only piece that was bubbled) on eBay. When it comes I’ll have to decide whether it’s something I want to tear into. I hear guys saying that it’s a “friction fit”, but I don’t even know what that term implies.
 
Aznav, your pictures made a huge difference! got mine done in under 3 hours, did't lose any nuts or bolts, pretty dog gone easy!
 
Hey all,
Ready now to replace my top chrome piece on the windshield, obviously.

My question is regarding removal of the interior trim. Where and how do I start with each of the pieces? The order of each pieces’ removal is obvious but how are they attached and reattached is my dilemma as I’m more than nervous screwing with any plastic interior trim pieces. Also, while I’m in there I need to secure the three little buttons for garage opening as that little POS is loose, functional but ticking me off.

Advice more than appreciated…
 
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