1973 Front and Rear End Rebuild and Part Sourcing

[BigBird28]

I'm currently looking to rebuild my front and rear end. Through some preliminary research I am having somewhat of a difficult time finding parts. I picked up the 1973 Ford Shop Manual and 1973-78 Ford car parts catalog but am still having difficulty sourcing everything.

So my questions now are:
1. What is the best way to find these parts?/ Who is your preferred vendor? (Using 1973 Thunderbird as a filter usually kills a ton of results that seem like a fit.)

2. What other cars could I use to search for parts that share the same suspension? (Is the Mark IV directly compatible?)

3. I see a ton of bushings for sale, are full assemblies (IE upper and lower control arms) hard to come by?

4. I'm planning to install a dual exhaust configuration in an effort to "de-smog" it. Is this the best time to do that conversion or am I just as well off doing this work with the suspension in place?

5. What other things should I checkout while I have the front & rear end in pieces?

6. Overall, what is the best way to approach this undertaking? I have no garage and am doing this work on a suburban street so I'm hopeful to fully disassemble and rebuild everything within 3-4 days.

7. Lastly, what are the most critical components that should be replaced? Going into this I'm planning to replace everything but I'd like to get a better sense of what to prioritize and know which parts are worth spending a bit more on.

I know this is a beefy thread but I'm hopeful this can evolve into something of a reference for all 6th generation Thunderbird owners/mechanics. Please feel free to drop whatever bits of knowledge you can. I'm all ears. I'll add that currently the car rides pretty well. It does creak which I believe is the front left ball joint, but just don't know if I should start working on the suspension and swapping out individual parts if everything is OEM stock from the factory. I'm thinking it makes more sense to do it all in one go.

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[kdtbird]

I'm currently looking to rebuild my front and rear end. Through some preliminary research I am having somewhat of a difficult time finding parts. I picked up the 1973 Ford Shop Manual and 1973-78 Ford car parts catalog but am still having difficulty sourcing everything.

So my questions now are:
1. What is the best way to find these parts?/ Who is your preferred vendor? (Using 1973 Thunderbird as a filter usually kills a ton of results that seem like a fit.)

2. What other cars could I use to search for parts that share the same suspension? (Is the Mark IV directly compatible?)

3. I see a ton of bushings for sale, are full assemblies (IE upper and lower control arms) hard to come by?

4. I'm planning to install a dual exhaust configuration in an effort to "de-smog" it. Is this the best time to do that conversion or am I just as well off doing this work with the suspension in place?

5. What other things should I checkout while I have the front & rear end in pieces?

6. Overall, what is the best way to approach this undertaking? I have no garage and am doing this work on a suburban street so I'm hopeful to fully disassemble and rebuild everything within 3-4 days.

7. Lastly, what are the most critical components that should be replaced? Going into this I'm planning to replace everything but I'd like to get a better sense of what to prioritize and know which parts are worth spending a bit more on.

I know this is a beefy thread but I'm hopeful this can evolve into something of a reference for all 6th generation Thunderbird owners/mechanics. Please feel free to drop whatever bits of knowledge you can. I'm all ears. I'll add that currently the car rides pretty well. It does creak which I believe is the front left ball joint, but just don't know if I should start working on the suspension and swapping out individual parts if everything is OEM stock from the factory. I'm thinking it makes more sense to do it all in one go.

I have a 76 Mark IV. I think they are basically the same. You can ignore the exhaust ( I have dual and Cat is in the way) and work around it but it makes taking out the steering gear box interesting. I used Moog parts when available. I believe the rear suspension is the same between the tbird and mark. I can tell you from experience that everyone that says they have the rear control arm bushings are wrong. They are all either too short or the wrong diameter. Learned this the hard way over a period of several months.
Front bushings/ball joints are easy to find. Loaded control arms are not available as far as I know. Idler arm, pitman arm and drag link easy to find. Sway bar bushings and end links available.
You will probably want to rebuild the steering gear box. My Mark has 53000 miles and is a little loose after best adjustment and the seals leaked.
Do you have Sure Track or hydroboost? If hydroboost have it rebuilt. They are prone to leakage. NOT an easy job to remove. Leaking sure track actuator? Not possible to repair, bypass it. Also pay attantion to your hydraulic lines. With sure track and or hydroboost the line configurations vary and may or may not be available. I have both and had to have my existing lines remanufactured. Pricy.
Dont' piecemeal the front end job. Make sure you have someone ready to press out/press in the bushings.
If doing the steering gear box you should replace the rag joint at the same time.
Priority? Do front upper and lower bushings, Strut rod bushings (very hard to get the bolt off under the radiator core support) ball joints, sway bar and tie rod ends pitman arm, idler arm, shocks and drag link. If you are very organized 2-3 day is do-able.
Make marks/measurements on upper control arm location before removing the bolts, Tie rod lengths etc. If front end is too far out of adjustment when finished you won't be able to drive it to have an alignment.
Most Important! Removing the front coil springs can KILL YOU! Literally. They can be removed and replaced by removing the shock and lowering the lower control arm with a jack but there will still be a little pressure on the spring so you have to hit it at the bottom to pop it out and back in. Pay attention to the way the spring seats in the lower arm. Rotate the spring to align with the recess in the arm. Be carefull !!!!!!!
Hope this helps and doesn't discourage you.
Edit: forgot to mention the rear sway bar bushings, there is a way but you have to be creative. Let me know if interested.

 

[BigBird28]

I have a 76 Mark IV. I think they are basically the same. You can ignore the exhaust ( I have dual and Cat is in the way) and work around it but it makes taking out the steering gear box interesting. I used Moog parts when available. I believe the rear suspension is the same between the tbird and mark. I can tell you from experience that everyone that says they have the rear control arm bushings are wrong. They are all either too short or the wrong diameter. Learned this the hard way over a period of several months.
Front bushings/ball joints are easy to find. Loaded control arms are not available as far as I know. Idler arm, pitman arm and drag link easy to find. Sway bar bushings and end links available.
You will probably want to rebuild the steering gear box. My Mark has 53000 miles and is a little loose after best adjustment and the seals leaked.
Do you have Sure Track or hydroboost? If hydroboost have it rebuilt. They are prone to leakage. NOT an easy job to remove. Leaking sure track actuator? Not possible to repair, bypass it. Also pay attantion to your hydraulic lines. With sure track and or hydroboost the line configurations vary and may or may not be available. I have both and had to have my existing lines remanufactured. Pricy.
Dont' piecemeal the front end job. Make sure you have someone ready to press out/press in the bushings.
If doing the steering gear box you should replace the rag joint at the same time.
Priority? Do front upper and lower bushings, Strut rod bushings (very hard to get the bolt off under the radiator core support) ball joints, sway bar and tie rod ends pitman arm, idler arm, shocks and drag link. If you are very organized 2-3 day is do-able.
Make marks/measurements on upper control arm location before removing the bolts, Tie rod lengths etc. If front end is too far out of adjustment when finished you won't be able to drive it to have an alignment.
Most Important! Removing the front coil springs can KILL YOU! Literally. They can be removed and replaced by removing the shock and lowering the lower control arm with a jack but there will still be a little pressure on the spring so you have to hit it at the bottom to pop it out and back in. Pay attention to the way the spring seats in the lower arm. Rotate the spring to align with the recess in the arm. Be carefull !!!!!!!
Hope this helps and doesn't discourage you.
Edit: forgot to mention the rear sway bar bushings, there is a way but you have to be creative. Let me know if interested.

Incredible! Thank you so much for your input! I'll do my best to address your points.

So for the exhaust, not necessarily worth it to pull right now? The plan is to upgrade to dual. If I'm taking everything out, would the dual install be easier with the suspension out?

Good to know Moog has the parts. I have used them before and am a fan.

So for rear control arm bushings, what's the best way to get them?

Steering box is something I hadn't considered at all and could be the culprit for some of these mystery leaks I'm having upfront and substantial ones at that. The engine looks clean other than what I suspected was a rear main seal but now I'm suspicious. How involved is it to repair and could one be replaced. If I do decided to rebuild, are there rebuild kits available?

Sure-Track, I recently replaced the master cylinder. That was a straight forward job and I think I saw some stuff about sure-track when I was researching and working on the electrical but I'm not certain. What's the best way to find out? Same for hydroboost but now is the first I'm hearing of it.

I rebuilt the front and rear end on my daily driver (2000 Toyota Camry) a few years ago and it was all super straightforward. But the caveat is the components with bushings came loaded. I might have access to someone with a press but not on standby and I'm just not sure how long it would take to organize that work.
The front coil spring sounds like a nightmare. Again with the Camry, full assembly, direct swap. I knew not to remove the top cap because the springs will "launch". Without a proper lift and garage, this is starting to sound very very difficult.

Sounds like the rear end work is a bit more straightforward, but I'll still need someone to press bushings, if I can find the right ones.

Not discouraging at all, but maybe more a reality check given my current resources.
So if I was to take it to a mechanic for this kind of work, ballpark what do you think would be fair. Certainly a lot of labor and parts.
I'd also need to find a mechanic.

 

[kdtbird]

Incredible! Thank you so much for your input! I'll do my best to address your points.

So for the exhaust, not necessarily worth it to pull right now? The plan is to upgrade to dual. If I'm taking everything out, would the dual install be easier with the suspension out?

Good to know Moog has the parts. I have used them before and am a fan.

So for rear control arm bushings, what's the best way to get them?

Steering box is something I hadn't considered at all and could be the culprit for some of these mystery leaks I'm having upfront and substantial ones at that. The engine looks clean other than what I suspected was a rear main seal but now I'm suspicious. How involved is it to repair and could one be replaced. If I do decided to rebuild, are there rebuild kits available?

Sure-Track, I recently replaced the master cylinder. That was a straight forward job and I think I saw some stuff about sure-track when I was researching and working on the electrical but I'm not certain. What's the best way to find out? Same for hydroboost but now is the first I'm hearing of it.

I rebuilt the front and rear end on my daily driver (2000 Toyota Camry) a few years ago and it was all super straightforward. But the caveat is the components with bushings came loaded. I might have access to someone with a press but not on standby and I'm just not sure how long it would take to organize that work.
The front coil spring sounds like a nightmare. Again with the Camry, full assembly, direct swap. I knew not to remove the top cap because the springs will "launch". Without a proper lift and garage, this is starting to sound very very difficult.

Sounds like the rear end work is a bit more straightforward, but I'll still need someone to press bushings, if I can find the right ones.

Not discouraging at all, but maybe more a reality check given my current resources.
So if I was to take it to a mechanic for this kind of work, ballpark what do you think would be fair. Certainly a lot of labor and parts.
I'd also need to find a mechanic.

I know what you mean about resources! I am in the middle of a complete underhood restoration and it is expensive.
If you can do a Camry you can do your Tbird. The main difference is strut vs coil spring removal. Not to mention the size difference between the two cars. Remember, there is pleasure in driving the car and satisfaction in repairing the car. Paying others is expensive and it is getting dammed near impossible to find someone to work on a car that old. I assume the car is driveable? Enjoy it while you get your ducks in a row.

After a little reading I don't think you have hydroboost. You probably have vacuum assisted brakes. Look at your brake pedal. Does it say Sure Track?

Exhaust: Yes it would be easier to get the steering gear box out with the exhaust removed but that opens a can or worms. What if the bolt breaks off in the exhaust manifold flange? Not a fun task and time consuming to remove. Since you want to limit repair time on the street leave it be if possible for now. I have factory dual exhaust with dual cats. The cat was in exactly the wrong spot so I removed them but I could have gotten the steering gear box out with alot of cussing.

Rear control arm bushings: Forget for now. Once again, repair tiime setting on the street. Bushings are not available. It is possible to make your own urethane bushings but we will leave that for another discussion.

Steering gear box: is the leak power steering fluid (red) or oil? I suggest degreasing the underside of the engine, transmission etc, to get a better idea where the leaks are coming from. Rear main seal requires pulling the transmission but quite often it is the oil pan seal. Oil pan seal is do-able.

Coil springs: don't get discouraged. Very do-able. Just need to know what to expect in advance if you have never done them before.

Front bushings: You will have to have someone on standby to press the bushings if you want to maintain you 2-3 day timeline.

Lastly: you will need a high lift jack and tall jack stands.

If you want to pm me with your phone number we can text pics back and forth to give you a better idea what is involved.

 

[BigBird28]

I know what you mean about resources! I am in the middle of a complete underhood restoration and it is expensive.
If you can do a Camry you can do your Tbird. The main difference is strut vs coil spring removal. Not to mention the size difference between the two cars. Remember, there is pleasure in driving the car and satisfaction in repairing the car. Paying others is expensive and it is getting dammed near impossible to find someone to work on a car that old. I assume the car is driveable? Enjoy it while you get your ducks in a row.

After a little reading I don't think you have hydroboost. You probably have vacuum assisted brakes. Look at your brake pedal. Does it say Sure Track?

Exhaust: Yes it would be easier to get the steering gear box out with the exhaust removed but that opens a can or worms. What if the bolt breaks off in the exhaust manifold flange? Not a fun task and time consuming to remove. Since you want to limit repair time on the street leave it be if possible for now. I have factory dual exhaust with dual cats. The cat was in exactly the wrong spot so I removed them but I could have gotten the steering gear box out with alot of cussing.

Rear control arm bushings: Forget for now. Once again, repair tiime setting on the street. Bushings are not available. It is possible to make your own urethane bushings but we will leave that for another discussion.

Steering gear box: is the leak power steering fluid (red) or oil? I suggest degreasing the underside of the engine, transmission etc, to get a better idea where the leaks are coming from. Rear main seal requires pulling the transmission but quite often it is the oil pan seal. Oil pan seal is do-able.

Coil springs: don't get discouraged. Very do-able. Just need to know what to expect in advance if you have never done them before.

Front bushings: You will have to have someone on standby to press the bushings if you want to maintain you 2-3 day timeline.

Lastly: you will need a high lift jack and tall jack stands.

If you want to pm me with your phone number we can text pics back and forth to give you a better idea what is involved.

View attachment 19933

I can certainly relate to the feeling of gratification when a machine (electronic or mechanical) operates as it should because of the personal labor one put into it. I got into this stemming from a passion for cars, not wanting "mechanics" (no disrespect as I know there are a lot of great actors in the trade but a lot of bad apples), and no budget. So if I could do a job for the price of parts and a few hours + the feeling of accomplishment, of course I'd be willing to try.

She definitely runs and fairly well, though I think a new timing chain and distributor are in order to give it some more pep. Right now I have sitting in my garage new valve stem seals to address some oil consumption, belts (power steering, AC, and alternator), and a gasket and pinion for the rear diff. I picked it up last May and have been bogged down with frustrating electrical work.

I'm mad enough to take on the challenge of saving the car, but not mad enough to drive around at night with no dash lights or functional windows. Brake master cylinder was up next as the old booster was totally rotted. So it runs and essential cabin electronics are all functional. I also did a new Retrosound stereo, rewired the whole system, new rear speakers, and installed a new antenna. I've also done a few new relays, new dash lights, new windshield wiper pump and reservoir, new window switches and motors (both front only, don't want to get into the rear windows yet), new headlight switch, new high beam light, new battery connectors and wires, and installed a coolant reservoir.

Now that I know it will stop and I can see at night, I daily drove it for about a week. In that time I found the ride decent but the rear diff leaks, strange noises on startup from the belts as the weather has gotten colder, the oil consumption, and front left creaking of what I assume is the ball joint. But my whole thing is, while I'm in a section, do everything I can if the parts are out anyway. Looking at pulleys for the belts and possibly addressing the timing chain but that would also make me want to do a new distributor so that's a more pricey part I'm trying to settle on.

Apologies as that was a bit long winded but now you're up to speed on where I am.

So since identifying the issues daily driving for a bit I'm trying to address the stuff I see as being need to be done to prevent bigger issues down the line. Then while doing those jobs, tighten up stuff I'd be removing and working on anyway.
So for the leaks:
Rear diff, not certain if main gasket or pinion seal. Cheap enough parts for a Ford 9" so I got both.

Power Steering Pump leaks by the outlet from the reservoir so something I may be looking at addressing if I can determine I need a new hose, new reservoir, or full new assembly.

Old Brake Master Cylinder was nearly dry so I replaced it. Drove it for a bit and checked the fluid levels and it looked good with decent brakes so I think that's resolved.

Valve cover gasket looks good. The leaks quite honestly look like they could be oil pan rather than rear main. I have some pictures I took of the parking space I was in when I daily drove it to log where the leaks were. I'll post those in a bit.

As for leaks, that's about it. The top of the engine looks clean and dry and all leaks appear to be oil.

 

[kdtbird]

Mileage? Been thru everything you mentioned. Front creaking is probably the control arm bushings. Typical Ford thing. Original timing gears were nylon covered. If they have not been replaced drive her gentle until you do. It is major, time consuming work to get to the timing gears. Nothing terribly hard, just so much stuff to remove to get to them. The rear end can leak if the copper crush washers on the bottom 5 or 6 bolts were not replaced when changing diff oil. Per Ford manuals they should have crush washers. Didn't believe it. I was wrong.
I agree with you, when working in an area do it once and do it right.
Why do you think the distributor is bad? The power steering reservior has an 3 o-rings between the housing and pump. Easy fix. Check the hose seat for wear/scoring where the hose attaches to the pump. A know area for leakage.
How about a pic of Ms Ladybird.

 

[BigBird28]

A shade under 51K and I'm 99% sure that's not 150K, per the backstory I got and the DMV history.
Would that be the upper or lower arm? I was thinking ball joint.

Rear end only has the diff leak right now as far as I know but I'll keep an ear out. I tried to start her up today but she was not happy about going out in the cold and wet and refused to start. (The benefit of having the dependable Camry on call)

I didn't necessarily think the distributor was bad, though my difficulties getting it started today have me suspicious, but in an effort to liven her up a bit and advance the timing-> New chain and a new (I've heard recurved duraspark) distributor are on the list.

I think that will likely be my next job:
New alternator belt
New power steering belt
New ac compressor belt

Then while I have everything off:
New timing chain and gears

I have some photos but not with me right now, however I did upload a short, rather poor quality video to Youtube so some relatives cross country could see what I'm working.
Here's the link:

This was a few weeks back before I put the hubcaps on and reassembled the dash

Edit: I'll also refer you to another thread I have going about getting the taped together roof addressed

1973 Roof Replacement Cost

I recently picked up a 1973 2dr HT and the roof is in a sorry state. The vinyl is largely rotted away and has exposed a rusted roof with holes. Amazingly the headliner looks to be in great shape but without extensive bodywork knowledge, I suspect the roof panel will need to be replaced. What...

forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com

I'm unafraid to take apart the alt belt and the entire face of the engine, just don't know how to properly set the timing etc when I do the chain and distributor. Any recommendations both on procedure and parts? (Maybe more appropriate in another thread)
Really want to get her to a spot where she'll rip down the road a bit more, but nothing crazy as to preserve the "luxurious" essence. I don't need a track car, but I also don't want to be wasting potential.

 

[BigBird28]

A shade under 51K and I'm 99% sure that's not 150K, per the backstory I got and the DMV history.
Would that be the upper or lower arm? I was thinking ball joint.

Rear end only has the diff leak right now as far as I know but I'll keep an ear out. I tried to start her up today but she was not happy about going out in the cold and wet and refused to start. (The benefit of having the dependable Camry on call)

I didn't necessarily think the distributor was bad, though my difficulties getting it started today have me suspicious, but in an effort to liven her up a bit and advance the timing-> New chain and a new (I've heard recurved duraspark) distributor are on the list.

I think that will likely be my next job:
New alternator belt
New power steering belt
New ac compressor belt

Then while I have everything off:
New timing chain and gears

I have some photos but not with me right now, however I did upload a short, rather poor quality video to Youtube so some relatives cross country could see what I'm working.
Here's the link:

This was a few weeks back before I put the hubcaps on and reassembled the dash

Edit: I'll also refer you to another thread I have going about getting the taped together roof addressed

1973 Roof Replacement Cost

I recently picked up a 1973 2dr HT and the roof is in a sorry state. The vinyl is largely rotted away and has exposed a rusted roof with holes. Amazingly the headliner looks to be in great shape but without extensive bodywork knowledge, I suspect the roof panel will need to be replaced. What...

forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com

I'm unafraid to take apart the alt belt and the entire face of the engine, just don't know how to properly set the timing etc when I do the chain and distributor. Any recommendations both on procedure and parts? (Maybe more appropriate in another thread)
Really want to get her to a spot where she'll rip down the road a bit more, but nothing crazy as to preserve the "luxurious" essence. I don't need a track car, but I also don't want to be wasting potential.

Also for the power steering O-Rings:

Amazon.com

You think this set would do?