1966 390 engine 91 octane okay? | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1966 390 engine 91 octane okay?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Spider
  • Start date Start date
Spider

Spider

Reaction score
6
Thunderbird Year
1966
I can only find 91 octane, and the manual calls for 100. Should I be adding an octane booster? If so, which

brand adds the most boost without getting into racing fuel, or racing fuel additives? Thanks.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
The 91 should run just fine.

The calculation for octane today is different from back then. Basically your 390 is a high compression engine, and requires a higher octane to prevent pre-ignition, or knocking. It'll run on regular, but you'll hear something akin to marbles when you step on the gas. Higher octane actually prevents the fuel from igniting before the spark plug tell it to. Today's 91 octane is roughly equivalent to yesterday's "hi-test" of 100 octane.

There are two other notable differences between today's gas and yesterday's. First, the lead. This is grossly overrated and should not scare you at all. How soon we forget -- Amoco used to ADVERTISE unleaded gasoline back in the day! Now, that's all you get. If you use unleaded gas in an older motor, it is possible for the valves to wear out faster. If you do a lot of driving in the mountains, or pull a trailer, basically driving in such a way to be hard on the engine, you could experience valve wear over time. If you take your car on a Sunday drive to the beach, or to a Saturday night car cruise, it makes no difference whatsoever. If you rebuild your motor, they will generally install new hardened valve seats -- and then you can pull trailers up the mountains to your heart's content. It's just not a big deal.

The other difference is more noteworthy. Today's gas is pretty-much gasohol. It contains ethanol. Nothing wrong with that either, except your car wasn't made for it. Because of the ethanol content, it is wise to replace any rubber fuel lines with new composition. Heck -- that rubber is over 50 years old! Replace them anyway! The other side effect can be a nuisance. Ethanol gas, even high octane, has a lower boiling point. After driving around on a hot day, pull your car into the garage, shut off the motor, and a half-hour later your garage will stink to high heaven. The gas in the carburetor bowl will boil and evaporate. You might also find your car harder to start, and easier to stall, when hot. Example, come out of the store or restaurant, get in your car, and it'll stall three time trying to get out of your parking space. Once you've driven a block or so it's fine. Yes, that's the hot gas. Spacer plates under the carb can help.

Aside from knowing about these things, put that 91 in your car and enjoy the ride.

BTW, personally I use 89 and the car runs great. A couple of times I've accidentally used 87, and the car is still okay but I'll indeed get a small knock if I step on it. But -- my motor has blow-by, and the compression is a bit lower. Once I fix this I may need to go to the 91.
 
If you are running a stock 390 FE engine with 10:5:1 compression you should be able to run that on unleaded premium either 91 or 93 octane....even 89 or 87 if you adjust the timing so it isn't pinging there is no way you should need 100 for that motor. I have a 390 Fe with about 90K miles and it is running just fine on 91 and I added a lead substitute as a safety measure but I don't think that is even needed unless you are using it as a daily driver in heavy traffic in the heat with A/C as the exhaust seats can get overheated if you don't get them replaced with hardened seats for those driving conditions, but for the weekend or Sunday casual drive you are good to leave it alone
 
Believe me, I'm a long way from being a tech advisor for Ford. I'm just repeating the things I've learned over the years.

The RADIOS are a different matter . . .
 
The 91 should run just fine.

The calculation for octane today is different from back then. Basically your 390 is a high compression engine, and requires a higher octane to prevent pre-ignition, or knocking. It'll run on regular, but you'll hear something akin to marbles when you step on the gas. Higher octane actually prevents the fuel from igniting before the spark plug tell it to. Today's 91 octane is roughly equivalent to yesterday's "hi-test" of 100 octane.

There are two other notable differences between today's gas and yesterday's. First, the lead. This is grossly overrated and should not scare you at all. How soon we forget -- Amoco used to ADVERTISE unleaded gasoline back in the day! Now, that's all you get. If you use unleaded gas in an older motor, it is possible for the valves to wear out faster. If you do a lot of driving in the mountains, or pull a trailer, basically driving in such a way to be hard on the engine, you could experience valve wear over time. If you take your car on a Sunday drive to the beach, or to a Saturday night car cruise, it makes no difference whatsoever. If you rebuild your motor, they will generally install new hardened valve seats -- and then you can pull trailers up the mountains to your heart's content. It's just not a big deal.

The other difference is more noteworthy. Today's gas is pretty-much gasohol. It contains ethanol. Nothing wrong with that either, except your car wasn't made for it. Because of the ethanol content, it is wise to replace any rubber fuel lines with new composition. Heck -- that rubber is over 50 years old! Replace them anyway! The other side effect can be a nuisance. Ethanol gas, even high octane, has a lower boiling point. After driving around on a hot day, pull your car into the garage, shut off the motor, and a half-hour later your garage will stink to high heaven. The gas in the carburetor bowl will boil and evaporate. You might also find your car harder to start, and easier to stall, when hot. Example, come out of the store or restaurant, get in your car, and it'll stall three time trying to get out of your parking space. Once you've driven a block or so it's fine. Yes, that's the hot gas. Spacer plates under the carb can help.

Aside from knowing about these things, put that 91 in your car and enjoy the ride.

BTW, personally I use 89 and the car runs great. A couple of times I've accidentally used 87, and the car is still okay but I'll indeed get a small knock if I step on it. But -- my motor has blow-by, and the compression is a bit lower. Once I fix this I may need to go to the 91.

I drive a 1955 Thunderbird and I used to have the same problem that you mentioned of hard starting after driving on a hot day, until I started using 100% gasoline. The fuel costs more, but since there isn't any ethanol in the fuel it doesn't evaporate like the fuels that have ethanol in them. I am fortunate that there two gas stations that sell 90 octane, 100% gasoline within five miles from where I live. Here is a link to see where you can buy 100% gasoline in your state: https://www.pure-gas.org

Doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Hi all. I've had good results with Lucas octane booster. Combustion is smoother (octane moderates the combustion wave front) and engine sounds healthier. It adds $12 to each tank of gas but worth it in the long run.
 
Back
Top