1964 Time for timing | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1964 Time for timing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shadrack
  • Start date Start date
Shadrack

Shadrack

Reaction score
98
Thunderbird Year
1964
Hello everyone,

I am getting ready to start my bird for the first time in a long time. The engine is stock. I installed a new distributor when I did the timing set. What should I aim for in regards to initial timing? I have heard 6 degrees some say 10-12? How much total timing should I shoot for - what should it be at 3000 or so - 32 or more?

Slight mod question - If I get a recurve kit when should I shoot to have all the timing in for the best throttle response - 2500 or less/more RPMs?

Thanks so much!

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
You can set static timing as high as 15 degrees BTDC. But why not start at 6 and get it running, then tune it from there. I think total timing at 3000 rpm should be 32-34 degrees BTDC.
 
I wish no disrespect to 64ZCODE, however a stock engine with a new timing set will not run correctly at 15 degrees btc. 6 degrees is the stock setting. Depending on the fuel you run and altitude you drive 2-3 more degrees advance can give a little more power. Or not.
As far as recurving the advance when racing the f/e engines do well with full advance at 1800 rpm.
As for regular driving full advance isn't necessary below 2500.
So let's explain the reason for static timing.
Proper timing at full advance cannot occur if the static is incorrect. For exact timing you need to know the range of advance on your distributor. Most are 26 to 28 degrees. So to get 34 degrees at full advance you need 6 at the start. Aftermarket distributors, performance cams, and other mods can can change the formula, or the static, but not the max.
 
if it's a stock distributor on a stock engine...I have a friend with dozens of old cars...he uses the trick--as do i--of advancing the timing at idle until the engine starts to idle rough; then back it off to smoothness and lock 'er down there. he never uses a timing light
 
Back
Top