1964 Thunderbird Heater Core non/ac

Shadrack

Shadrack

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1964
Hey Folks,

So, since I am replacing my fuse panel and redoing some wiring, I figured, I should go ahead and tackle the heater core - my car is a non-AC car. I know it is bad, the seller told me so at least. It has been disconnected for what looks like years.

What I wanted to ask was this:

1. I will do my research of course, but what pitfalls can you guys share from your experience?
2. Are there any other parts I should replace when I do this? I remember something about valve or an actuator or something.
3. Anything I should avoid?

I will take out the passenger seat to give myself more room - just look to pool your advice.

Thanks in advance!
 

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It’s not a problem if you take the seat out and the lower dash panel. Everything from there is pretty straightforward except the two screws in the back of the heater core. They are a bear to get out. You’ll have to work hard at those and try not to tear them out as it will make a mess of things in the box. Heater hoses connect fine and then put your dash panel back but be careful of the vacuum manifold under there if you have vacuum door locks.
 
Sounds like it is not going to be a good time lol.

What about parts? I will buy a replacement core or try and have mine re-cored - but are there any other related parts I should replace while in there?
 
I Would buy a new core. I think they’re right around $100. Once you do this job you don’t want to do it again. Replace the hoses and clamps and that’s about it. You might take a look at the vacuum hoses attached to the manifold that work your vacuum door locks to make sure they’re not cracked. While you’re there you might as well take care of that too.
 
While you have the front panel of the heater box off you can look at the resistor that your electrical connector fits in. Sometimes they break. Also check your vacuum control cans and vacuum hoses that work and operate the heater doors. You don’t have AC so there aren’t as many.
 
With the heater control box apart you can see if the heater control doors are opening and closing correctly with the car running preferably. This is where a good vacuum hoses connected to your vacuum control cans comes in to play. Also I would replace the heater control valve in the engine compartment. While you’re putting new hoses on put on a new heater control valve. It also has a vacuum hose to it.
 
Wow I just looked at the bird nest heater core for your car. $135 because it has the long pipes versus the AC unit that doesn’t. Still would not recommend recoring yours. That could be costly as well unless you know somebody who is really good at it and yours is not too badly rusted. My pipes fell right off of mine. There was no saving it.
 
That is a ton of great information @Rom324 . So, any tips or tricks to removing the passenger side panel? I read that it is a few bolts then you have to pop a chrome strip off, popping a strip off makes me nervous, really do not want to break it.
 
Yes you have to pull the strip off but it’s not that hard. Has metal retainers if you get a small plastic prybar or a screwdriver under it and it will pop right off. There is one 7/16 inch bolt to the left side facing the front by the consul that Has to come off and one at the kick panel. It’s pretty straightforward how to get it off but you need to take that panel down to get access to the heater box. It’s not that hard of a job just take your time and be patient with the chrome strip.
 
The screws that release the panel from the dash are under that chrome strip. Easy Peezy once you get the strip off which again just takes a little finesse
 
Yes you have to pull the strip off but it’s not that hard. Has metal retainers if you get a small plastic prybar or a screwdriver under it and it will pop right off. There is one 7/16 inch bolt to the left side facing the front by the consul that Has to come off and one at the kick panel. It’s pretty straightforward how to get it off but you need to take that panel down to get access to the heater box. It’s not that hard of a job just take your time and be patient with the chrome strip.

Okay, thank you! WOW, I am usually not intimidated by a job, but I did one of these on a 76 tbird for my dad when I was 14 and I remember it being horrible. Thank you for your support!
The screws that release the panel from the dash are under that chrome strip. Easy Peezy once you get the strip off which again just takes a little finesse

Okay, thank you! WOW, I am usually not intimidated by a job, but I did one of these on a 76 tbird for my dad when I was 14 and I remember it being horrible. Thank you for your support!

So once that is off, being this is a non-ac car, is the job easier or harder? Also, any idea how many screws hold in the box? I read that there are 4 screws that hold in the heater core itself - any special tools that might make it easier.
 
No special tools needed. I think there are 4 - 5/16 inch hex head screws that hold the Core into the box. The ones in the back are hard to get so you’ll have to play with maybe a flex extension if you have one to get back there. That’s why taking the passenger seat out is imperative. You’ll need to lay flat on your back so you can see the screws way in the back. You can get your head back there but wear safety glasses for sure
 
I have noticed that if I’m comfortable doing these odd jobs it makes it a lot easier and even can be enjoyable. LOL ! right!
 
I’m heading to church in about 30 minutes so I’ll get back to you this afternoon if you have any other questions, but would love to hear how the job goes. Let me know and even send some pics if you can.
Jim
 
I’m heading to church in about 30 minutes so I’ll get back to you this afternoon if you have any other questions, but would love to hear how the job goes. Let me know and even send some pics if you can.
Jim

Will do Jim,
Thank you for all the advice and help. I think I am going to get started on it today. Maybe I will start by taking out the passenger seat. I will take photos and share for sure!
 
Okay,
So I went outside and looked it over. The panel apparently was screwed on in the front and barely holding on, I did have to take the bolt out. It is time like this that make me love and hate this car. I feel like the previous owner just did a crap job at everything and took EVERY SINGLE SHORT CUT POSSIBLE. He apparently painted many of the panels black and they are still sticky to this day...

MVIMG_20190804_103300.jpg MVIMG_20190804_103300.jpg




Now that I have the plate off I can see the heater box. I am a bit confused, according to my shop manual it says it has to come out, but I am not sure I want to do that lol. Does the box have to come out?

My picture did not show up on the phone, but this is what I am looking at pretty much:
IMG_2569 (1).jpg


I am confused as to what to unscrew. The shop manual says to remove 4 screws from the engine bay and one screw under the fresh air intake, then remove the box. (removing defrost hoses and such)

Where do I go from here? I have read other posts and forums but I am just not putting it together in my mind. Any help is most appreciated fellas!
 
Okay,

Since my last posting, I went out and removed it totally. (As I was warned a did WEAR GLASSES, ALL kinds of stuff comes out of that box, mostly rusts bits) Took about 1 hour give or take. I undid all the nuts on the firewall I saw, 4 in total, disconnected the fresh air thingy, and started to shimmy the box up and down. It came loose about 2-3 inches. Got my HANDY 5/16 ratcheting combo wrench and had all 4 bolts off the cover in about 5 minutes. that thing is amazing - I would say it is MUST have for this project. I did not take the seat out, I just went into Mr. Fantastic mode lol.

Next, I ran into the problem of the box not wanting to move more. So I continued to look for obstructions, took off the fresh air vent totally, and watched carefully while I pulled on the box. I undid the access port on the firewall and used it to slide the LONG tubes down into. From there, the heater core just slid out.

1. The only thing that seemed to be holding it in was it just sitting there, the core that is.
2. I did not see any valves or actuators near the heater core at all.
3. These things worry me.
4. Is it possible that I can buy a replacement core, slide it in there, put the box in place, hook up my hoses and have heat?? Can it be that simple? Something tells me not.

5. Where should I buy a new core? I called around locally to one of the 3 shops, only one will "look at it," and they "sid it will be at least 300." Where I have bent mine a bit - dumbell I know - I think I am just going to get a replacement. Anything else you all recommend I buy for this leg of the project?

This is a bit off the topic, but for you that I follow, and those who seem to follow me a bit (watching out for postings from each other) @64ZCODE @fordrodsteven , @Rom324 @Dj-Dan @Ezdarryl58 @inspector I am sure I am missing others:

I found a loom of wires, I think I got a partial shot - would you believe it...the connector, the black plug, is actually burnt!!! This car must have had a loon worse than me own it in the past!!! I am building a whole new headlight harness and am going to put it on relays.

So as the young people say, "pictures or it didn't happen," here ya go - Also, please forgive me for bending a tube on my heater core, I know it is rookie, but I did my best.
IMG_20190804_135510.jpg IMG_20190804_135524.jpg IMG_20190804_135632.jpg IMG_20190804_135637.jpg IMG_20190804_135720.jpg IMG_20190804_135738.jpg IMG_20190804_135747.jpg IMG_20190804_142436.jpg IMG_20190804_142501.jpg IMG_20190804_142510.jpg
 
I didn’t have to take my box out. I did it by unbolting the core from the box
 
OK you are really my hero now. Great job. You tackled one of the worst things to do on these birds. You can buy a new core for $135 at the Birds Nest in Oregon. Just go to TBirdParts.com
 
And yes all you have to do is put the core in and secure it to the box hook up your hoses and you’re good. The hard work you already did
 
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