1964 engine dies after 13 minutes

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74 Harley said:
That tank is brass, it's very easy to solder that
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74 Harley said:
That tank is brass, it's very easy to solder that.
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Well I will revisit the surge tank in the morning. I have her one. The ramps...butt all in the air! Going to drop the fuel cell. Check the sending unit out and blow out the lines. I am ready for a ride with no issues.
 
You have a few bugs to work out, but don't get discouraged. These are fantastic cars to drive, I was daily driving my '61 for several years as a young man. Perfectly dependable.
If you have any rust in the tank, consider having it cleaned and coated. Many radiator shops do this as well. I did a tractor tank a couple years ago and it cost about 75.00.
 
74 Harley said:
You have a few bugs to work out, but don't get discouraged. These are fantastic cars to drive, I was daily driving my '61 for several years as a young man. Perfectly dependable.
If you have any rust in the tank, consider having it cleaned and coated. Many radiator shops do this as well. I did a tractor tank a couple years ago and it cost about 75.00.
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Well I just got done doing a round of electrolysis therapy, and I coated it myself as well. It is curing in the garage as we speak. I have ran a couple experiments with the fuel tank off and I believe I got to go back through the carb. It is the olny piece that I can't bypass lol..
 
SuperDave254 said:
Well I just got done doing a round of electrolysis therapy, and I coated it myself as well. It is curing in the garage as we speak. I have ran a couple experiments with the fuel tank off and I believe I got to go back through the carb. It is the olny piece that I can't bypass lol..
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Okay I quick update out of all the stuff I've done to try to get this car to run right The last thing was I electrolysis the fuel tank did a fuel liner on the inside and ran a hard line fuel return from the carburetor to the tank. The next morning it did the exact same thing as it was doing before as I was pouring gasoline on it My wife stopped me from throwing a match.... No but for real I've been telling myself it's got to be something simple that I'm missing. Everybody on the interweb says that the passenger side port on an elderbrock is for your vacuum advance. This is true if you have admissions control / computer if not the driver side port goes to the vacuum advance on your distributor! Now it runs like a brand new car. Hopefully I've been on a short drives today we go for a long drive wish me luck
 
This ain't the exact picture but it's similar to the one that got me investigating the vacuum ports
 

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All right here we go this is the post to complete the French toast! It has been 2 months plus of money, time, brain power, blood, and patience to get to this. And by the way don't get me wrong I've read hundreds of threads with the same issue and not the same cause so this MY STORY. I met this beautiful car probably 4 years ago. Friend of a friend had it in his mother's garage It fired right up sounded good. I told him don't ever sell it without calling me. You know time goes by and forget the car anyway... See the guy asking about the car he said he just posted it on the marketplace I said hell if you did cuz I'm about. When I get to the car feels beautiful as it was but it won't start Long story short New distributor and points not set correctly I think I got it under control so I buy it. It took a week before I rented a tow dolly and pull it home because it wouldn't stay running for more than 6 minutes or so. From cold start sounding beautiful half a bump at the starter she's on... Get the operation temp and no worky! Sometimes she would start right back up and die shortly after other times she wouldn't start for an hour maybe six. Buy a new distributor put it in and issue continues so I start vapor lock problem solving. I reroute my fuel lines away from the engine away from heat no results. And that was after I did a dynamic cleaning and rebuild of the Edelbrock carburetor that was on it. I then check the sending unit in the fuel tank because of some other threads I read and yes I had a horrible sending unit. And a pinched vent line and a pinched feed line. Uncrimp the feed line by new sending unit vented fuel cap and while it was down I electrolysis the gas tank and did a red coat lining. No change same problem I test this and I test that... Find a picture which is one of my last posts of a carburetor I swapped the vacuum lines tune the carburetor and she ran so beautifully that I felt like a high school kid doing numerous different things lol. The next day I get home she will not start at all couple hours of backtracking backtracking and the distributor the speed master procomp 6000 is not producing fire Don't forget it's brand new..! So to make it quick warranty claim on a brand new part new distributor drops in so beautifully the car runs completely different and my problem is solved.!?!? So so long story short Brand new part on something I knew that was wrong was faulty from the get-go cost me about $600 in just parts of mixed diagnosing and we don't want to talk about time. So the whole time once the car got the temperature a component of the distributor would fail therefore the car dies It would intermittently work or it wouldn't work at all until I discovered the real problem of complete failure. More of the story don't trust it just because it's brand new especially on old stuff! You have fuel, you have spark, at the correct time. And your old motor will run sorry for the long-winded finish to a thread but it needs to be explained and I guess we'll see each other somewhere in the future cuz now we're going into vacuum brake switches and window back windows electric windows! Also just to be said after a can of neverdull A six pack of beer and a Vicodin I hate chrome!!!
 
Glad you got it sorted. I think I'll stick with my points & condenser. As far as the vacuum control issues Ford LOVED vacuum controls until reliable electric ones came available. The rear windows could just need a few raps on the motors to free them up. Had to do that to my heater fan after not using it a few years. Now I leave it on low all the time to keep the motor free.
 
Heat on low... Hell naw lol I dang near had heat stroke with out a heater core at all the last couple days. It is hot as the devil's toilet after Taco bell night here.
 
SuperDave254 said:
Heat on low... Hell naw lol I dang near had heat stroke with out a heater core at all the last couple days. It is hot as the devil's toilet after Taco bell night here.
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Motor on but on the fresh air setting. Planning on replacing my exhaust system this winter and most definitely adding the heat shields. I now understand leaving the hard top on or the rag top up when it's blazing hot. I may be a bit of a red neck but I don't need it to be because of a sunburn and wide brimmed hats don't go well in an open convertible.
 
Ward 57 said:
Motor on but on the fresh air setting. Planning on replacing my exhaust system this winter and most definitely adding the heat shields. I now understand leaving the hard top on or the rag top up when it's blazing hot. I may be a bit of a red neck but I don't need it to be because of a sunburn and wide brimmed hats don't go well in an open convertible.
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I hear you on that especially the redneck I'm more along the lines of a civilized hillbilly to put it nicely. But for real I believe my whole system was stripped out before I got it I don't see a heater core a compressor motor any of that All I have is the controls and the dash. But on a different note what do you know about brake lights or the headlights like the flicker whenever I'm at idle but they were great solid and bright the whole way to work the other morning on the highway kind of confusing
 
SuperDave254 said:
I hear you on that especially the redneck I'm more along the lines of a civilized hillbilly to put it nicely. But for real I believe my whole system was stripped out before I got it I don't see a heater core a compressor motor any of that All I have is the controls and the dash. But on a different note what do you know about brake lights or the headlights like the flicker whenever I'm at idle but they were great solid and bright the whole way to work the other morning on the highway kind of confusing
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Sounds like the voltage regulator. I've seen cars from the 70's have the brake lights cycle from dim to bright at stop lights before they switched to electronic regulators. There are 3 mechanical points under the cover and the shop manual tells how to adjust them. May even take a point file to them and clean them up as sometimes they will burn if improperly jumped or corrosion from lack of use.
 
SuperDave254 said:
Can someone help me understand what is happening after about 13 minutes of running she wants to shut down. And then it is either really hard or impossible to start again until it cools down
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first thing I would do is change out the coil. and get rid of the points system. then u might want to replace or clean out the fuel tank. I did on mine and alos put in a new sending unit. start fresh. its easy to put in another fuel cell and of cours new filters one in line between carb and fuel pum and the other in side the fuel pump. fresh is good.
 
1rmisner said:
first thing I would do is change out the coil. and get rid of the points system. then u might want to replace or clean out the fuel tank. I did on mine and alos put in a new sending unit. start fresh. its easy to put in another fuel cell and of cours new filters one in line between carb and fuel pum and the other in side the fuel pump. fresh is good.
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