1957 Suspension decisions

[RHahn57]

Just got me undercoated chassis back in my shop so can finally begin re-assembly on this project. Before I begin assembly of the front A-arms and rear differential...
- Anyone go with aftermarket front springs or just clean and remount the original OEMs?
- Rear leaves are sad and I recall this thing could use a stiffer rear end so wondered what anyone has done to beef up the rear setup?

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[simonsma]

Just recently did my frame off restoration I replaced the front springs with new ones as they're very reasonably priced make sure that you put the 1/4 inch spacer under the left front spring to offset the driver's weight. I was going to replace the ball joints upper and lower in my 55 Thunderbird and after talking to a Thunderbird restorer he said that they have done well over a hundred small birds and could count them out of bad ball joints on one hand. He suggested that I leave mine alone. He said that when you replace the new ball joints they are much stiffer and that when you make a turn you will have to steer the car back to center. He mentioned that this was a real inconvenience and that if the old ball joints are good which they always are to leave them and allow the car to come back to neutral steer on its own. Now it's out and driving and I sure appreciate that information that I received from him and it drives great. Re-arching the rear springs is pretty simple and straightforward and can be easily done after the car is totally assembled and you have measured the ride heights at the four different points.

 

[RHahn57]

Just recently did my frame off restoration I replaced the front springs with new ones as they're very reasonably priced make sure that you put the 1/4 inch spacer under the left front spring to offset the driver's weight. I was going to replace the ball joints upper and lower in my 55 Thunderbird and after talking to a Thunderbird restorer he said that they have done well over a hundred small birds and could count them out of bad ball joints on one hand. He suggested that I leave mine alone. He said that when you replace the new ball joints they are much stiffer and that when you make a turn you will have to steer the car back to center. He mentioned that this was a real inconvenience and that if the old ball joints are good which they always are to leave them and allow the car to come back to neutral steer on its own. Now it's out and driving and I sure appreciate that information that I received from him and it drives great. Re-arching the rear springs is pretty simple and straightforward and can be easily done after the car is totally assembled and you have measured the ride heights at the four different points.

I wonder if anyone has explored air suspension setups for this chassis...

 

[Jim B.]

I watched this auction a few weeks ago. Awesome restomod and yes, it has an air suspension!

Modified 1957 Ford Thunderbird for sale | Hagerty Marketplace

Discover this Modified 1957 Ford Thunderbird for sale from our trusted collection of verified classic and enthusiast cars. Find your dream ride from our expert-approved listings.

www.hagerty.com

 

[RHahn57]

I watched this auction a few weeks ago. Awesome restomod and yes, it has an air suspension!

Modified 1957 Ford Thunderbird for sale | Hagerty Marketplace

Discover this Modified 1957 Ford Thunderbird for sale from our trusted collection of verified classic and enthusiast cars. Find your dream ride from our expert-approved listings.

www.hagerty.com

Wow, This builder is apparently my clone as he tips his hat to modern tech just like I am planning, right down to the gauge package in the original panel and Sniper II EFI...

 

[Jim B.]

Wow, This builder is apparently my clone as he tips his hat to modern tech just like I am planning, right down to the gauge package in the original panel and Sniper II EFI...

He turned me on to Dakota Digital but unfortunately the instrumentation for a ‘55 has to be total digital and not anolog type gauges. I was hoping to keep the glass top on the console but they have to spray paint it to keep sunlight off the back of the gauges. I am now repairing my speedometer and gas gauge for reinstallation. I will figure out another way to glean more precise reading on the systems. I also want to do EFI upgrade but to the original 292 if possible. I wasn’t a car guy until I inherited my ‘Bird. Now I’m obsessed! 😂🤣😂

 

[65Konabird]

Just got me undercoated chassis back in my shop so can finally begin re-assembly on this project. Before I begin assembly of the front A-arms and rear differential...
- Anyone go with aftermarket front springs or just clean and remount the original OEMs?
- Rear leaves are sad and I recall this thing could use a stiffer rear end so wondered what anyone has done to beef up the rear setup?
View attachment 34310

Nice! Always a great feeling to start reassembly. I went with aftermarket front springs for better ride and handling, worth it. For the rear, upgraded leaf packs or adding a helper spring can really tighten things up. Curious to see what direction you go!

 

[clubairth1]

That was a nice modified T-Bird! I am sure who ever built it originally lost a ton of money as it only sold for $35K. I see way more than that in mods.
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[PJB]

Nice! Always a great feeling to start reassembly. I went with aftermarket front springs for better ride and handling, worth it. For the rear, upgraded leaf packs or adding a helper spring can really tighten things up. Curious to see what direction you go!

If you have information about aftermarket front springs for a 1955-57 TBird, please provide. I'm about to make an engine swap on my '55 installing a new-build 292 with aluminum heads and intake. I'm guessing it's 75+ pounds lighter than original. I also need to lower the front of my car by ~2 inches. For whatever reason, when I replaced front springs several years ago the front has been too high. I would like to get height correct and also improve the ride somewhat. Any specific info you can provide is appreciated. For info, one of the TBird specialty companies puts coil-overs on the front but doesn't sell kits (requires bolt-on brackets). Too bad really but if anyone knows anything about availability of a similar option, please put it out there.

 

[Machinehand]

I When I rebuilt my suspension I installed Aerostar front springs. They are a progressive rate spring and should be slightly softer until you load them in a turn. They are a common replacement for the original springs. I am still restoring my 55 so it is just a body on frame. I can't vouch for ride height yet but I have read they will lower the front about 1 - 1 1/2 inches.

That was a nice modified T-Bird! I am sure who ever built it originally lost a ton of money as it only sold for $35K. I see way more than that in mods.
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If you look closely, the body work held the price down on this one.

 

[Salmon1957]

I too went with aerostar front springs, dropped it 1.5". Put 2" blocks in the back, leveled it and drives great!

 

[PJB]

There's another thread going regarding Aerostar springs. I made the swap on my '55 and am very happy with the new stance...it dropped the front by ~2 inches and matches the height commonly published at the headlights (28/28.5). I need more miles to judge the ride but my initial impression is that it is improved. I provided this info and attached photos in the other thread.

 

[RHahn57]

Well I got the front suspension back together. Spring and sway bar assembly was a bit of a heads-scratcher without the weight of the car but finally sorted that out. Now on to the front disc brakes...

 

[Jim B.]

Looking good! What brake package are you installing?

 

[RHahn57]

I decided to go with the conversion kit from National Parts Depot. Will try to comment on it once I get into it...