1957 Overheating

[Kampy]

I have a 1957 312 auto that after 20 minutes of running (in mixed traffic) pegs the meter. New stat, radiator flush,re-built engine,etc. Hand-held thermo shows 197 d, 189 at the radiator. What to do?

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[jack-in-sac]

Are you having any coolant spewing? If not gauge can be reading incorrectly.
What does your gas gauge read at the same tim as the engine appears to be overheating? If the temp gauge pegs and the gas gauge drops to E then you may have a regulator problem that those two gauges are tied to.
I suggest that you consider a second aftermarket temp gauge. the second gauge can be installed in the opposite cylinder head after replacing the freeze plug with a thrreaded bung. Do not use any sealant with the second bung it is an interference fit.

 

[1957Bird]

So here we go 🙂
Also running a D code 57/automatic that also had a tendency to run pretty hot if forced to sit in slow traffic in summer. Engine freshly completely rebuilt, new water pump, thermostat.
running aux temp gauge that’s mounted in port on side of water pump, so reading front and back of system. Radiator had been rodded and flushed when engine was out.
this winter installed Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (DON’T PAINT) 6 blade flex fan and Casco’s large opening 170 degree thermostat. Just returned from a ride around town in 87 degree weather.
the aux temp gauge reads slightly over 130 degrees and the stock gauge on the dash is reading in the lower 1/3 of its range. I’d call that a win
You can draw your own opinion.

 

[jack-in-sac]

So here we go 🙂
Also running a D code 57/automatic that also had a tendency to run pretty hot if forced to sit in slow traffic in summer. Engine freshly completely rebuilt, new water pump, thermostat.
running aux temp gauge that’s mounted in port on side of water pump, so reading front and back of system. Radiator had been rodded and flushed when engine was out.
this winter installed Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (DON’T PAINT) 6 blade flex fan and Casco’s large opening 170 degree thermostat. Just returned from a ride around town in 87 degree weather.
the aux temp gauge reads slightly over 130 degrees and the stock gauge on the dash is reading in the lower 1/3 of its range. I’d call that a win
You can draw your own opinion.

I believe that your operating temperature is much lower than optimum at 130 degrees F.. Normal ranges for many older engines is 190-225 degrees F. Modern engines may range may fro 210 up to 250 degrees F.Too low of an operating temperature can result in sludgy build-up. and poor oil flow. Nascar engines eve run up to 280 degrees F.. Those engines however are running at high r.p.m. for extended periods. That is way too high for me.

 

[CSPIDY]

these yblocks run best at 190, when you run low water temps you run the risk of not burning off the moisture build up in the oil system as well.

 

[CSPIDY]

I have a 1957 312 auto that after 20 minutes of running (in mixed traffic) pegs the meter. New stat, radiator flush,re-built engine,etc. Hand-held thermo shows 197 d, 189 at the radiator. What to do?

if you are not boiling over I would not fix it.
if it does boil over there are more things you can do to fix it.
this has been gone over many times
do a search on this sight. or post back and we will help for sure

 

[Douglemmo]

So here we go 🙂
Also running a D code 57/automatic that also had a tendency to run pretty hot if forced to sit in slow traffic in summer. Engine freshly completely rebuilt, new water pump, thermostat.
running aux temp gauge that’s mounted in port on side of water pump, so reading front and back of system. Radiator had been rodded and flushed when engine was out.
this winter installed Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (DON’T PAINT) 6 blade flex fan and Casco’s large opening 170 degree thermostat. Just returned from a ride around town in 87 degree weather.
the aux temp gauge reads slightly over 130 degrees and the stock gauge on the dash is reading in the lower 1/3 of its range. I’d call that a win
You can draw your own opinion.

Was the water pump you installed one of the modified ones with the improved impeller?

 

[John R. Dulin]

I'm having the same problem. The temp gauge can top out or nearly reach H. So far the engine light has not come on. I have the improved propeller water pump, aluminum radiator with two 12" puller fans and larger diameter 180 degree theromstat. I also use ICE water wet. I suspect that the gauge is incorrect. The gas gauge when full also reads a quarter low and the engine will stall when hot when stopped or at a red light. Next week I am going to have the mechanic put a thermal temp gun on the engine to try an get an operating temperature. I have plan to have him install a new temp sending unit, fuel sending unit and oil temp unit and new accessory gauges and an overflow tank. If that fails, I give up.

 

[TJShea]

Hello I am certainly no expert on this. I have a 57 D Code. I have a high efficiency radiator, an improved water pump and an electric fan on the front of the radiator that can assist the stock fan if needed. It is on a toggle switch. I have a full shroud on the stock fan and an overflow tank. I am in the Las Vegas area, and when it gets toasty, the temp gauge indicator goes to the very edge of the white line at the hot side, especially if i need to sit for one of our notoriously long signal lights. When I check with a thermal gun, it shows 195 at the upper radiator pipe, and 190, or even less at various points around the block. I have stick-on thermal indicators at two spots on the radiator top, one right at the upper inlet, They have only once turned color to show 195, and the thermal gum indicated 198 . It appears to me, at least for my car, that what I thought would be getting close to boiling point, being the temp gauge at the very end of the white line, or into the gap between the line and the "H," is not the case. I would guess that while in a modern car I usually see the temp gauge in about the middle even when over 100, in my 57, 195 is at the very end of the white line towards the gap before "H,." while even slightly in the gap before "H" it is still under 200. The from has been a big help All of the improvements to the cooling system were things I picked up here. None of these were necessary when the car lived in the Pacific Northwest.

 

[Critterpainer]

I have a 55 in the Phoenix area that I am currently addressing the cooling system on to help keep it cool at low speeds. It hated stop lights and one could watch the needle climb as I waited for the light. I installed a redesigned spacer with the volute to help improve water flow at an idle and installed the heavy duty water pump. These two changes slowed the idle heat creeping up. I also noticed that the inspection plate on the lower air intake to the radiator was missing. The engine has been rebuilt before my ownership.
As the weather warms up (its only 94) I will keep watching the engine temp.

 

[Ward 57]

I've found that if the needle doesn't peg, or runs at the edge of the white zone 190's won't damage the engine. Just don't run too thin of oil in the hot climates.

 

[Gunny Clark]

I have a 1957 312 auto that after 20 minutes of running (in mixed traffic) pegs the meter. New stat, radiator flush,re-built engine,etc. Hand-held thermo shows 197 d, 189 at the radiator. What to do?

Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.

Napa Thm6 for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Napa Thm6 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

ebay.us

 

[Ward 57]

Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.

Mine gets pretty hot but never into the danger zone. The original 4 blade does OK I may change out the thermostat as I've heard NAPA has it but need to check clearance with the heater valve. Just need to get it off the jack stands and back on the road. Lots of tinkering under there and adding to the 'winter project' list.

Napa Thm6 for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Napa Thm6 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

ebay.us

 

[Lionel]

I'm having the same problem. The temp gauge can top out or nearly reach H. So far the engine light has not come on. I have the improved propeller water pump, aluminum radiator with two 12" puller fans and larger diameter 180 degree theromstat. I also use ICE water wet. I suspect that the gauge is incorrect. The gas gauge when full also reads a quarter low and the engine will stall when hot when stopped or at a red light. Next week I am going to have the mechanic put a thermal temp gun on the engine to try an get an operating temperature. I have plan to have him install a new temp sending unit, fuel sending unit and oil temp unit and new accessory gauges and an overflow tank. If that fails, I give up.

Hi. I did some research on the problem, Henry just added a spacer behind water pump to move it closer to the radiator consequently the is a large gap behind the impeller which apparently allows for cavitation and poor water flow around the rear of the engine. CASCO sell a shaped plate that goes in between the block and the spacer to overcome the problem or they have modified pump with a deeper impeller. I have just fitted the modified pump to our 57 as the water circulation was really bad. Fingers crossed.

 

[Lionel]

Had our 57 overheat a few times when we were in Vegas, did a lot of research and just got in the Casco high output waterpump (20% cooler) and large opening 170 degree thermostat, steel 6 bladed fan blade and I also found a re-engineered Chris Ames A-432 waterpump spacer (google it), it's $$ but everything I read about it is very good, just waiting them them to contact me on it.

Hi, when you fitted the new thermostat did you check the heater outlet was not protruding into the inlet manifold to far, there was an information sheet in the 170* thermostat carton. The large opening thermostat is longer than standard and will not open fully if the outlet protrudes to much.

 

[Cardiffhounddog]

I'm looking for a oil cooler system for my T'Bird, have fitted an electric fan and about to fit a high output water pump. All to alleviate the over heating problem here in southern Spain.

 

[sre]

I've read all the comments, the one thing I would check is the engine timing and possibly the vacuum advance. Timing to far advanced could add to heat problem

 

[paul5456]

I'm looking for a oil cooler system for my T'Bird, have fitted an electric fan and about to fit a high output water pump. All to alleviate the over heating problem here in southern Spain.

Get the wide mouth thermostat. Also the improved water pump spacer. Never heard of a oil cooler system made for a TBird, Try the people who work on race cars for a unit that will work. Don't know what the temps go to in southern Spain, but doubt they are any worse than our southern states

 

[Nico57]

190F to 200F a good engine operating efficiency temp. You really do not want to be below 180F. So task 1 is to verify the actual, compared to the gauge. Anti-freeze 50 50 makes boil point 223..(before any pressure cap change, and 70-30 to 235F..before. A pressure cap adds 3 degrees for each 1 psi. The job of a thermostat is to keep the coolant at the thermostat design specification..it opens and closes to do that. The cooling system is designed for a flow rate that allows time in the radiator for the coolant to be cooled, thus too fast a flow does not mean better cooling, the coolant returns to the engine hotter, and gets hotter again and so on. First checks: verify the temp, flush radiator with a good cleaner following directions, check that thermostat works (the old pot of heating water test), check that the thermostat is installed in the proper direction (very often is in backwards). Is the fan shroud in place. It is important. Start with fresh 50 50 anti freeze, if that is enough for your coldest winter (-35F I hope that does it). Fine to add some coolant enhancer product if needed later. So, with optimal operating temp of 190 to 200, and your actual temp verified, and a boil point of well over 223 (pressure cap adding 3 deg F for each 1 psi, so say a 13psi cap = 39F to the 223F. (altitude does not matter with a closed radiator cap) SO, , see how it is. Drive at 190 to 210 F no worries. Still plenty of margin. If still too high, then get into a new radiator( if too much crud and scale for strong cleaner to remove) and or water pump--vanes can corrode. Before a new radiator install, the engine coolant passages MUST be cleaned as much as possible..do flushes and cleaning PRIOR to a new radiator, and even then, put a filter sock in the inlet to radiator hose for a while. By the way..a cooler temp thermostat does NOTHING to help with overheating: it will only lower the temp on an engine that runs cold to begin with. A high flow stat may allow to fast a flow for time for coolant to cool thru the radiator, or it may or may not help--if the radiator and engine coolant passages are so clogged that the flow is too slow: depends.
Nick

 

[jack-in-sac]

My observations over the the past 25 years are that overheating is most often a problem not actually related to the cooling system. Instead I find incorrect timing, an engine with quite a few mils on may be better timed by vacuum. Another common problem is still timing related in that an inoperative vacuum advance is common. Thirdly faulty choke mechanism is also quite a common problem. Last; how good is the overall engine condition. Although not necessarily related, all 292s and 312s have solid lifters. they should be adjusted at least every 10,000 miles. I prefer to do it annually with a P&G valve gapper. Too tight result: burned valves. Too loose noisy and lower performance. Before going right to the radiator a the source of the problems check the rest of the engines systems. One caveat is the it is not a big problem or expense to have the core rodded out. that can only help.