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Hope you rebuilt the wheel cylinders with silicone compatible components.
I also have the original system. It took me a while to get it right but now it's working great and is fine for normal driving. I added self-adjusters to the fronts. I would not argue that a disk conversion wouldn't be even better, but I don't think it's necessary once you get the factory system fixed up "like new" unless you do a lot of hilly driving or tailgating. Mine can put you thru the windshield if need be.
Just to be safe I replaced the flexible lines especially the one on the rear axle which was still original. The fronts were done over 35 years ago when I had the front springs replaced.
The basic way is to use a dual master and for the front brakes, you have that circuit connected to the original booster. For the rear brakes, you connect them directly to the rears. That's when you use an original style booster. If you switch to a "modern" booster that sits behind the master cylinder it will "boost" both the front and rear. For those systems people often use a proportioning valve to reduce pressure to the rears and/or they put in rear brake cylinders which have a smaller bore, I think from a 55... I'd have to look it up.
