As I said the relay on the firewall may be stuck from lack of use. Have somebody manipulate the switch while you smack it with a cloth covered hammer or rubber mallet.
Before you start smacking an electrical component with a hammer, let’s diagnose your power window problem the proper way. Since you said that neither of the power windows are operational, the window regulator safety relay on the firewall or the 30 amp circuit breaker under the dash could be the cause.
Notice, the window regulator safety relay has only three wires connected to it, which means that the relay must be properly grounded on the firewall before it will work. Make sure the surface where the relay mounts on the firewall is clean and free of paint.
Looking at the attached
wiring diagram;
The black wire at the window regulator safety relay is connected to the starter relay; there should always be 12 volts at this wire.
The red wire at the window regulator safety relay is connected to the ignition switch; there should be 12 volts at this wire when the ignition switch is turned to the on position.
If the window regulator safety relay is working properly, the yellow wire at the safety relay should have 12 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the on position.
The yellow wire at the 30 amp circuit breaker under the dash is connected to the window regulator safety relay; there should be 12 volts at this wire when the ignition switch is turned to the on position.
If the 30 amp circuit breaker is working properly, there should be 12 volts at the red/blue wire when ignition switch is turned to the on position.
doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue