1956 front steering/suspension | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1956 front steering/suspension

  • Thread starter Thread starter knuckle47
  • Start date Start date
knuckle47

knuckle47

Reaction score
102
Thunderbird Year
1956
New at this so bear with me this could be a dumb question. I am trying to make plans on replacing all of the front end bushings when I do my brake system. Is it safe to say that this can only be done with the coil springs removed?

When I placed the Jack stands up front under the cross tube, the A-arm bushings are cracked and dry. I’d bet they’re original they are so bad

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Mine are cracked and look dry but they are still tight. But I have seen on here there are threads you might need a press to do it right.
 
The press I have… my concern is for the coil spring. Motorcycles don’t use them except the early Indians and they’re were 1/2 a leaf spring. I have never removed one … youtube shows the exploding spring which honestly …. Concerns me. The rest is mechanics and I’m fine with it. Forces that can work against me make me nervous. If there is a way to swap them easily I’d prefer it.

The real deal is that if there is a 50/50 chance of something dropping, breaking, bending, cracking, falling off or ripping….. I have typically gotten the wrong 50%…. REALLY!
 
Wouldn’t attempt without an appropriate spring compressor.
Rent one or buy one, either way.
After that it’s definitely just mechanical stuff if you have the press and experience with it.
I sent mine to a local old timer, $500.00 and done🙂
 
The problem these days… I’m the old timer now. This older old timers are just not around. I guess I’ll buy a decent spring compressor next
 
The problem these days… I’m the old timer now. This older old timers are just not around. I guess I’ll buy a decent spring compressor next
More commonly available now are strut compressors. That might work but I would find or make a spring compressor. the energy stored in the compressed spring can be lethal. the problem with strut compressors is that they hold onto the spring with only a shallow groove. A proper spring compressor has a hooked end that does not slip off when the spring moves in the process of compression and removal. In the following the ball joints are removed from their tapered seating in the spindle and the A-arm is left attached to act as a pivot point. I have seen having the spring compressed which is done by jacking up the lower A-arm. The compressed coils are then wrapped with wire to hold the compressin. the jack is then gently and carefully lowered the spring is then loose and able to be removed. Be very aware that the compressed spring can be extremely dangerous if it breaks the wires binding it. there are many ways to kin a cat. some are better than others. Having been a long time shade tree mechanic I have made a lot of questionable actions, thank god I am not dead or maimed. That is only due to providence not skill.
 
You may be able to borrow one from a Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, not sure about NAPA
They will charge you the cost then credit you on the return
Then you can purchase the bushing from them as well
I second Cspidy's comment. I just borrowed the tie rod and pitman arm puller from AutoZone. Both were new and still in the plastic wrappers. No need to buy these one-time usage tools. They have spring compressors. You can't beat the loaner program.
Ralph
 
Loaner it shall be ..thanks gentlemen. This project won’t begin for another 2- 3 weeks or so going into the rear brakes and bumper. Trying to fit in those rubber shields used on the 56 and a few other cleanup things

@jack-in-sac …. You have expressed my life to this point… I have taken several questionable moves that once I thought about it, I took a sigh of relief and stupidity. When you say “thank God I am not maimed or killed”. It strikes a chord. So, that is my EXACT fear and thinking. You’ve expressed it well for me !!!
 
Loaner it shall be ..thanks gentlemen. This project won’t begin for another 2- 3 weeks or so going into the rear brakes and bumper. Trying to fit in those rubber shields used on the 56 and a few other cleanup things

@jack-in-sac …. You have expressed my life to this point… I have taken several questionable moves that once I thought about it, I took a sigh of relief and stupidity. When you say “thank God I am not maimed or killed”. It strikes a chord. So, that is my EXACT fear and thinking. You’ve expressed it well for me !!!

I've been working on cars, and before that my bicycles, since I could work a pedal. Looking back on my youthful stupidity I did a lot of under car work with the car up on just the jacks, no jackstands, no wheel chocks. I'd never do that now and sliding in the jackstands takes so little time.. yet as a youngster I didn't want to waste that time... It can't happen to me...
 
There are two styles of spring compressors internal and external
With the older cars like ours that have shock inside the spring
an internal style works best
Remove the shock and place the spring compressor inside
External style will work but were made for struts
 
Hmmm…thanks @CSPIDY , that seems like a darn useful piece of information. I hope I’m not in over my head but THAT doesn’t scare me.

@jack-in-sac… THAT scared me
 
I rebuilt my entire front end without a spring compressor. As I recall, it was on jack stands and I used a floor jack to control the release of potential energy from the spring. The floor jack also allowed me to reassemble once everything was in place. Even with a press, replacing the bushings was challenging due to the angles of the A-frame. I used a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Service Kit, but may have had an easier time if I had also purchased a Master Ball Joint Adapter (on clearance!). It required getting quite creative, but was well worth it!
 
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