1956 exhaust routing

[knuckle47]

Is there a reason nearly all of the ‘56 birds I have seen have their exhaust routed down away from the bumper instead of thru the bumper? Mine is this way but I have found a NOS set of exhaust deflectors ( part # 5202 / 5203 ). During this upcoming winter I have a few plans to rebuild much of it and IF THERE IS A REASON …I figure it’s’ best I know it in advance.

I’ve seen exhaust and it’s gases rot steel and chrome so I was thinking this form of routing is a “preservation” technique but… I am probably overthinking that

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[74 Harley]

You're not overthinking this, it was also cheaper for the factory to go under.

 

[knuckle47]

So correct is thru the bumper and cheaper is a down curved tailpiece. Since I have the parts, I’m going back thru the bumper

 

[CSPIDY]

The 57 is similar, the exhaust will leave soot on the chrome which will clean off very easily.
A fix for the soot would be to add a catalytic converter, this would also hide oil smoke.

 

[knuckle47]

@CSPIDY … gee, I never thought of a catalytic converter. Something to think about. fortunately she’s not a smoker yet

 

[Ward 57]

You're not overthinking this, it was also cheaper for the factory to go under.

I'm pretty sure the exhaust was routed through the bumper from the factory. If the muffler shop that did the replacement system either didn't want to run it through the bumper or didn't have the proper deflector. My '57 is routed through the bumper.

 

[jack-in-sac]

knuckle47​

When the exhaust is routed through the bumper then you are correct that the fumes will cause spidercracks in the chrome surround. I am not religious about this but I do usually wipe off the bumper where the exhaust comes through to mitigate this problem. As an alternative I have seen the exhaust routed down and appropriately sized red lighting connected to the turn signal circuit installed in the exhaust cavity.

 

[doug7740]

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[rponfick]

Knuckle, I just took the exhaust deflectors off my '56, and put on turn down exhaust tips on the pipes. The deflectors were impossible to adjust on the tailpipe, bolts difficult to get to, rubbed and rattled against surrounding components, and, of course, were hard on the bumpers with the exhaust coming through them.
I am thinking of doing as Jac-in-sac commented, trying to find a light to fill the cavity, (do you have any suggestions), or fabricate some type of black filler panel.
Stock is nice, but in this case, I do not agree.
Ralph

 

[Ward 57]

I have never had an issue of your symptoms on my '57. All I can figure is that whomever built your exhaust didn't have the geometry down right. If you want to keep the through the bumper then have them rebuild the system from the resonator back as you are going to do something with it anyway.

 

[knuckle47]

Actually. I like the thought…if there is a hole, a light may be a great use for it with a black filler. My ‘57 has no issues but I am basing my thinking on what is correct for that 1956 year. That is how I restored motorcycles even to the detail of nickel plating as chrome was not invented until the late 1920’s. I believe the car would be no different but there is a perspective there. The bikes were “lookers”, “calendar girls so to speak” even though I rode them. The car is not a looker so going full blown exact restore makes little sense for me, other viewpoints will differ

On the boats I used a material called King Starboard. It is like a high density polyethylene that DEMANDS a special cement but it can be machined and cut like wood. Comes in black, grey and white and so many thicknesses. I think even easier (if you have a few tools) is 18ga steel. Cut and bent with tabs for bolts and options for on bolt on pre-configured light, brake light, marker light or what ever.

I’m going for the deflectors… I searched and searched and finally found a set NOS. This little detail may detract from something else I don’t have exactly right. I am grateful for all of the information

 

[55blacktie]

I wouldn't consider routing the tailpipes on my 55 any other way but through the bumper guards. However, if your local muffler shop is replacing your 56 exhaust system on the cheap, they'll choose the path of least resistance (so to speak). Also, if the replacement exhaust diameter is larger than stock, it might require rerouting.

If your engine is in good condition and properly tuned, and you keep your car clean, I wouldn't worry about the bumper.

 

[knuckle47]

my Engine is good so I’m not concerned as much after reading these thoughts …the PO routed the pipes below the number with a down sweep. If I were to keep that…and I’m not, a light would look good instead of a hole

 

[Ward 57]

Interesting, but what would be more work? Restoring or going resto-mod? I'm good with either.
But I have to admit in the fall seeing steam exhaust coming out of the bumper captivating. I just make sure I keep that part of the bumper well waxed, but it's a driver, from the blackened intake manifold to the exhaust ports it's no trailer queen But I enjoy driving it and the looks when on the road and VS. the scrutiny of a show. 100 ft look it's a 10, 20ft it's a 9, 3ft it's a 7 I'm happy as I drive it and not worry about a rock chip or door ding.

 

[paul5456]

One of the features I like about my 56 is the exhaust routing. When I got my car it was routed through the bumper. When I replaced it with a new system I again ran them through the bumper with no problems. I bought a kit from Fordcraft (Don Hyde)

As far as hurting the chrome, I think it is a matter of maintence. I drove my car from the east coast to the west and back twice as well as a bunch of shorter trips and locally and haven't experienced any problems with the chrome. All I use is #7 chrome polish when I see some discoloration and they come out looking look like new.

 

[knuckle47]

That is some ride…. I have never driven coast to coast let alone in a vintage car. #7 been around a long time. I’ll get a can and do the same thing. You know if youre ever near Great Adventure… pm me