1955 Hard top window trim installation | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1955 Hard top window trim installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Selfrich
  • Start date Start date
Selfrich

Selfrich

Reaction score
9
Thunderbird Year
1955
I am missing the hard top stainless steel window trim molding. The top has the window installed, but no stainless steel around the window. I have been told that you must have the stainless steel around the window or the window will fall out. Is it needed? Can I install new stainless without taking the window out? From the diagrams of the parts catalog it appears the stainless can just be inserted into the rubber with the window installed.

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I added the word "installation" to your subject so people know what your post is about. When I saw "1955 Hard top window trim" I figured you wanted to buy window trim.
 
I am missing the hard top stainless steel window trim molding. The top has the window installed, but no stainless steel around the window. I have been told that you must have the stainless steel around the window or the window will fall out. Is it needed? Can I install new stainless without taking the window out? From the diagrams of the parts catalog it appears the stainless can just be inserted into the rubber with the window installed.
If I’m not mistaken you should put the stainless in the gasket after putting the gasket around the glass before installing the window in the top. Not sure you could get the stainless trim into the gasket after the window is installed without damaging it???
 
I am missing the hard top stainless steel window trim molding. The top has the window installed, but no stainless steel around the window. I have been told that you must have the stainless steel around the window or the window will fall out. Is it needed? Can I install new stainless without taking the window out? From the diagrams of the parts catalog it appears the stainless can just be inserted into the rubber with the window installed.
The window needs to be removed from the car. there are three tiny screws below the belt line that help hold the stainless trim on. You also need to have the rubber under the stainless and the rubber needs to be glued to the glass and the stainless glued to the rubber. You can use an epoxy or emblem cement for the glue.

If you are purchasing the reproduction stainless, you will want it polished as the reproductions I have seen are not polished well. a metal polisher can do this for you at a nominal cost. Good luck with your project.
 
Interesting, I have never glued a window glass to the gasket before and have never experienced a failure or leak! All the installation instructions I have read never mentioned gluing the glass in. One recall on a 1971 Opel they did inject a silicone filler around the windshield to prevent it from popping out, but have only heard of glueing a windshield in is with modern windshields with no gasket. As far as 3 screws, not on my hardtop. I just refurbished my original top. Hmmm ?
 
Interesting, I have never glued a window glass to the gasket before and have never experienced a failure or leak! All the installation instructions I have read never mentioned gluing the glass in. One recall on a 1971 Opel they did inject a silicone filler around the windshield to prevent it from popping out, but have only heard of glueing a windshield in is with modern windshields with no gasket. As far as 3 screws, not on my hardtop. I just refurbished my original top. Hmmm ?
I agree with everything you said.
 
Maybe I am misunderstanding the question. Are you talking about the drip rail that goes over the door window on the hardtop itself? If so, that is a totally different thing. If you are talking about the stainless trim that goes on the door glass of a 1955-1957 Thunderbird, then I stand by my earlier comments. I have currently replaced the glass on both sides of my 1956 Thunderbird because of a problem with the window operation. I have completely stripped the doors and cleaned, rebuilt and refurbished the entire mechanism.

No one I have spoken to knows how Ford got the stainless trim to attach to rubber and the rubber to the glass but they seemed to do it without any sort of adhesive. I spoke to the folks at Prestige Thunderbird and they use an epoxy to hold the rubber to the window and the stainless trim to the rubber. Maybe you can just shove the stainless trim on and it will hold for you without the 3 screws or the rubber. I hope that works for you.
 
Yeah he’s talking about the hardtop rear glass.
1. Put gasket around glass with Seam at center bottom (6 o’clock). Use silicone spray in gasket channel.
2. Carefully Insert stainless trim into gasket including seam covers.
3. Insert rope in gasket channel all the way around, start at top and overlap on top of gasket. Use silicone spray on rope.
4. Install window into hardtop.
5. Have a friend push glass from outside while you slowly pull gasket over inside lip as you pull on the rope.
6. Continue until you have all of the gasket on the inside over the lip and headliner edge.

Be careful not to pinch or tear the headliner.

Many installation videos on YouTube.
 
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I found it easier to install the SS trim after the glass and seal was installed.
The SS trim is what locks the seal into the opening
 
I found it easier to install the SS trim after the glass and seal was installed.
The SS trim is what locks the seal into the opening
OK, . Just so everyone understands, my rear window on my 1955 Thunderbird top is already installed without the stainless steel moldings. You are saying that I can press the stainless steel moldings into the rubber around the window WITHOUT removing the current window. What "sauce" did you use to install the mountings?
 
@Slfrich not sure what you mean by “mountings”
the rubber seal is all that holds the window into the top
Perhaps a picture could help
 
@Slfrich not sure what you mean by “mountings”
the rubber seal is all that holds the window into the top
Perhaps a picture could help
I ment to say "moldings". Attached is a picture of my hard top with the window installed without the moldings. Can I just install the moldings now?20220901_143537.jpg
 
According to Cspidy yes. Maybe use silicone spray to help? I Noticed your gasket seam is off to the right, if you want to center that on the bottom you will have to remove the window and reposition the gasket. Let us know how the stainless install goes. I installed mine prior to installing the window. Good luck ?
 
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Guess it depends on the gasket?Those that CASCO, Larry’s, NPD, Concours sell are very thick and very hard to get around the glass. I bought two from different vendors, same gasket. Couldn’t get either on the glass even after heating the rubber. The gasket I bought from Tee-Bird Products (Dennis Carpenter gasket) it fit perfectly. Then I saw a video (can’t recall now) on installing the rear window on the Bird and it instructed to put the stainless in first to keep from damaging or bending it after window installation due to the fact the gasket channel will be compressed and may make it more difficult to install. Might depend on the gasket you purchased? Either way you choose is up to you. Good luck ?
 
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