Radio doesn't shut off with ignition, HVAC module has no power, seat warmer light flickers. Can these be related?
 
Radio doesn't shut off with ignition, HVAC module has no power, seat warmer light flickers. Can these be related?
When my radio would not turn off it was one of many issues that was fixed when I replaced the FEM. The FEM failure can cause all sorts of strange problem.
 
Finally pulled the FEM out of my 2002 T Bird parts car where the dash lights do not work.

Here are a front and back photo of the FEM. I really thought there would be more to
this module, but in reality it is quite simple.

Two 1 ohm resistors, quite large most likely for the front turn signal bulbs, and a ohm
bar of .005 ohm, not sure what this one does.

Going to check all 11 transistors to see which one is bad.

Truthfully some of these transistors are not heavy enough for the load they take, may
be why some fail.
fem front.JPGfem rear.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The release tabs were a bear to get to, as I recall. They were almost completely obstructed by bundles of wire harnesses,
Release Tab 2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I recently replaced the FEM on my 2003 T Bird. I unfortunately purchased it from Thunderbird Specialties who turned out to be a bad vendor. At the time I didn't mind paying an inflated price, however, when he was ready to ship the item, I had to pay an additional $1200 Core Deposit which I was supposed to get back when I returned the old one. I must have sent a dozen e-mails to Philip Wegener, the owner of the company. He said the credit would be forthcoming but it never happened. Not sure why he would want to cheat a customer. Be careful when dealing with this guy who should be put in the "Hall of Shame" His new name in the industry should be "Crooked Philip". He turned out to be a real scoundrel. Just for the record, the correct item number for this product is 6W6Z13C788AB. The list price from Ford is $955.31. The dealer cost is $623.86. You are much better off buying it from a legitimate Ford Dealer.
 
I also had an issue getting my core charge back from Thunderbird Specialties. Same deal. Many unanswered emails, a phone call with promises of sending a check immediately and still nothing. Starting to wonder why a guy with a specialty business like that would want to get a bad name with the very people that are/were supporting his business.
 
I sent my FEM out to MIdwestern tech to be repaired about eighteen months ago. It took about a month to get it back but it solved the problem and the price was reasonable. Around $250 with shipping each way.


Good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I sent the FEM from my parts 2002 T Bird to Midwest Tech since the dash lights were out when I bought it, then after sitting for 5 months most
everything else the FEM controls quit. Sent April 30th, just got back today, and everything works perfectly, they did a good job. Now I have
a good spare if one of my good 2002 T Birds has FEM problem.T Bird fem recd.JPG

Now this parts T Bird works perfectly, even with 129k miles.T bird fem rep.jpg
 
The FEM for my 2002 just returned from Midwest. The mechanic who removed it reinstalled it, but now the car doesn't recognize either of my keys. They are both the ones that came with this car when it was new.
 
We recently bought this 2002 Thunderbird with only 22,000 actual miles in early fall of 2020. Driving late one evening we noticed that the gear indicator light and most of the dash instruments would not illuminate. After reviewing this site I thought the front electronic module was at fault. I removed this module and had it looked at by a module repair specialist. He found no issue with the module. I reinstalled the module and traced power back to the fuse box. It indicated I had 13 volt power going from fuse 13 to the instrument cluster and fuse 5 to the transmission shift selector when the main light switch was activated. I am pretty sure others with this car have had this issue and would like to get feedback if possible on what had to be done next by others to resolve this issue. This is the only electrical issue with this car. Everything else associated with the Front Electronic Module works fine. I also changed out the Instrument Panel Dimming Module to no avail. Trying to avoid dealership diagnosis cost if possible.

Thanks
Larry Hunt
 
We recently bought this 2002 Thunderbird with only 22,000 actual miles in early fall of 2020. Driving late one evening we noticed that the gear indicator light and most of the dash instruments would not illuminate. After reviewing this site I thought the front electronic module was at fault. I removed this module and had it looked at by a module repair specialist. He found no issue with the module. I reinstalled the module and traced power back to the fuse box. It indicated I had 13 volt power going from fuse 13 to the instrument cluster and fuse 5 to the transmission shift selector when the main light switch was activated. I am pretty sure others with this car have had this issue and would like to get feedback if possible on what had to be done next by others to resolve this issue. This is the only electrical issue with this car. Everything else associated with the Front Electronic Module works fine. I also changed out the Instrument Panel Dimming Module to no avail. Trying to avoid dealership diagnosis cost if possible.

Thanks
Larry Hunt
Its almost certainly the FEM if the shift indicator AND the instrument lights are out....I have an 18,000 mile 2002 in which that was the only issue and some Bubba had hot-wired a patch inside the instrument cluster itself to have the lights on full time. I reversed that and then had the FEM repaired and all is well. There is more going on that just fuse voltages...the sash light switch sends a signal to the FEM which then determines what the instrument lights and shifter light do. There is a workaround by sending voltage to the shifter light to "backfeed" the instrument cluster lights and adding an external on/off switch which I have done and guided others through. Not perfect but very functional and can save an owner about $500.
 
2002 Tbird in inspiration yellow. Just recieved a FEM from Ford in Dearborn. It did not come with instructions, wich is not an issue, I dont think. But I am curious if anyone who has replced a FEM has had any issues, ie FEM needing programed after install. Anyway thanks in advance and happy Birding.
 
2002 Tbird in inspiration yellow. Just recieved a FEM from Ford in Dearborn. It did not come with instructions, wich is not an issue, I dont think. But I am curious if anyone who has replced a FEM has had any issues, ie FEM needing programed after install. Anyway thanks in advance and happy Birding.
From what I understand, it is plug and play. I would make sure the battery is not connected and everything is discharged.
 
I'm having some weird electrical issues in the dash that my mechanic can't figure out and I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. It started with the entire dash lighting up while I was driving, every darn light, speedometer would bounce between 160 and 0, other gauges would also max out and then drop to zero/empty. Then it would go back to normal for awhile, then it would do it again a while later. When I got home, turned off the car and when I tried to restart, the dash was black, nothing lit up at all and car wouldn't start. Prior to this, I'd been having some weird issues with a check engine light that my mechanic traced back to fuel pressure getting too high when coasting downhill, but he couldn't figure out why that was happening. And I will randomly have the airbag light flash, as well as the volume buttons on the wheel change stations instead of volume. Don't know if all this is related or a bunch of other problems, but I'm mentioning it all here, just in case it's one of the control modules and this list of issues helps narrow it down. So, anyway, I sent the car to my mechanic. He came back stumped. Again. He says that it's something in the gauge cluster that's messed up but isn't sure if he needs to replace the whole thing or the control module associated with it or just one specific component within it. He did discover that when he left his scanner plugged in it, then the dash would light up and he could start and drive the car, which just mystified him further. Any ideas out there on what's going on??? I need help! I love the car but the electrical issue is driving me crazy!
 
I'm having some weird electrical issues in the dash that my mechanic can't figure out and I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. It started with the entire dash lighting up while I was driving, every darn light, speedometer would bounce between 160 and 0, other gauges would also max out and then drop to zero/empty.
See post #10- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...ectronic-module-fem-2002-2005.5560/post-35306

Airbag light can be the clock spring.


Instrument cluster thread-
 
Last edited:
Dash lights and light on the shifter went out in November. I shipped the FEM to automotivemodules in December. Recieved the re-built FEM in January. Easy install and all my problems fixed for $595.
 
Sent my 2002 FEM to ModuleMaster last Saturday and is was back an in my car in 6 days. Now I can see the speedometer & tach at night. Charge was $200 plus FedEx.
 
Before I sent the FEM out for repair from my parts T Bird, I decided to open up my FEM. All the capacitors were fine, two of
the transistors were bad. I did a search for those transistors and one was available, the other I could not locate any where.

The FEM printed circuit board is a multi layered circuit board, which makes it very difficult to remove components from with
out damaging the circuit board. I paid $395.00 to have mine repaired, and feel it was worth every cent. It has been back
in the car for a full year now, and works great.
 
I've replaced two FEMs on 2 different 2002 cars; its not complicated but you have to be careful of the electrical connector housings in that confined space, you don't want to break any of the securing tabs off on those 19 year old plastic parts. Its a good idea to shoot some DeOxIt electrical cleaner on the connectors while you have them off (available on Amazon).

Neither FEM required reprrogramming. I can't apeak to the later years.
THe 2002 FEMs have a one year only number, 2003-2005 have a different number but its the same for all 3 years:
FEM_Numbers.png
 
Last edited:
I have now done the FEM song and dance. My car is a 2004. My only symptom was inoperable right side low beam headlamp. I checked all other above indicated symptoms; I had none. I tried three different bulbs in the right headlight socket. None worked on low on the right; all three worked on the low on the left. So below is some information based on my experience.

First, as everyone knows, the 2002 is different from the 2003-2005. This is not only in the FEM itself but also the instructions in the Ford Workshop Manual for the cars. The '02 instructions require removal of the lower instrument panel and courtesy lamp. This is not part of the instructions for the '03-'05 and was not something I needed to do.

Second, even after removing junction box, the removal of the FEM was tough because of those two long studs. It is frustrating but possible. It would have helped if the studs had been shorter but eventually it did come out. The length of the two studs was not an issue when I put the FEM back in the car. I feel there is not a need to shorten those two studs by cutting.

Third, the four horizontal and two vertical connector plugs to the FEM are very brittle (my car is in the very hot/dry southwest and that may make those plugs more fragile). I could not pull any of them out by hand; I needed leverage. Depending on the plug I used some sort of pliers and I did damage, in some measure, the plug plastic perimeter on each one. The two vertical plugs are easier to get off once the FEM has been released from the mounting studs/bolt.

Fourth, putting the FEM back in was easier than taking it out. The length of the two studs did not present a problem; I do not feel that the two studs need to be cut in anticipation of having to do this job again.

Fifth, once the FEM has been re-installed putting the junction box back without cutting/grinding of corner plastic housing that surrounds the left most of the two studs onto which that junction box mounts was not possible for me. Therefore have a Dremel and be ready to cut the junction box plastic.

Sixth I will advise that the following are tools that I needed (some of which I had to buy): interior trim tools; deep 10mm and 8mm sockets; ratchet; extension; Dremel tool with cutting and grinding attachment; two LED flashlights (one with a magnet on the back); variety of pliers; much patience.

It is hard to get in and out of the workspace - for both body and fingers. A dentist much younger than I could do the job quickly. It was work for me.

The company ModuleMaster in Moscow, Idaho did the rebuild of the FEM and I am quite satisfied and can recommend them. The car now works correctly.
 
Back
Top