ADMIN: IF the post is too long with the included pics, feel free to make changes as necessary.
Decided to jump in and see if it was repairable (Spoiler Alert: It was!).
Removing the switches was pretty easy, just the typical snap in so all you need to do is gingerly spread the tabs on one side, then the other. The same strategy works for the switch itself. When separated, you will see three LEDs, and a white elasometric contact assembly.
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Remove it and place aside. It's keyed, so reassembly is simple.
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Next, the circuit board slides out of the body base. You can see from this shot where the LEDs are soldered to the board. Pay attention to polarity, the lead on the right is the shorter lead, or cathode (-). The factory LED has a bend in that lead to prevent reverse installation. You may want to do the same to prevent headache later. Also visible are the surface mount resistors for current limiting.
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Next shows the replacement LED. The case style is different (taller), and green instead of clear, but there is pleanty of room inside the switch body for it. The LEDs in both switches were changes to keep color matching for the two.
NOTE: The two switches are not the same
part. They are keyed differently for left/right. The right switch will have a blue dot on the side that matches with blue tape on the right side connector lead.
The switches are also keyed into the bezel, so that left switch only snaps into left position, and right, right.
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Tools required: A temperature controlled soldering iron with a fine tip. Thin rosin core solder. Solder Wick. Good eyes or a magnifying glass.
It may also be necessary to "wet" the solder connector with fresh solder. Lead free solders don't behave well when attempting to remove, and excess heat may damage the circuit board or traces.
