'66 starting problems

Azfamily said:
You do know that the liquid is not the problem, it is the fumes that is the source of ignition
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Hey Azfamily. Pump tests are very common, for example to verify that a fuel pump is working or to check the spray pattern in the case of fuel injectors. As long as there are not sparks in the immediate area, there is minimal danger of igniting the fuel. Important to disconnect the coil both to prevent sparks but also to prevent the engine from trying to kick over and possibly backfiring through the carb.

If though you have the non-start condition and add a little gas down the throat of the car and then the car tries to start, that indicates a fuel delivery problem. If the engine starts cold but then gradually runs slower and dies, that's a choke problem most probably.
 

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I would check the fuel lines. It starts and runs so it initially gets fuel and then peters out. I would look in the tank and see if the pick-up is clogged with gunk or a collapsing flexible fuel line that won't let the flow enough to replace the fuel being burned after running a bit.
 
Ward 57 said:
I would check the fuel lines. It starts and runs so it initially gets fuel and then peters out. I would look in the tank and see if the pick-up is clogged with gunk or a collapsing flexible fuel line that won't let the flow enough to replace the fuel being burned after running a bit.
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i have had cars do that with a dirty fuel filter
 
KAMPY said:
THE STARVATION PROBLEM HAS ALREADY BEEN ADDRESSED, BUT FOR THE STARTING;;MAKE SURE ALL GROUNDS ARE CLEAN, ESPECIALLY THE BATTERY CABLE TO BLOCK.
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I just had a horrible electrical nightmare on my 1966 Ford Thunderbird yesterday and watch some of the ground wires melt in Smoke I have no idea what's going on with this car but it cost me $180 to have it towed 18 miles and I'm ready to set it on fire if it doesn't do it itself I've replaced every electrical component that I can possibly think of starter, starter solenoid, both battery cables, battery, ignition switch, coil, wires, points and condenser are replaced with an Accel points Eliminator kit and the matching coil so the resistor is not required I've run extra grounds from the chassis to the battery to the firewall is too many grounds of problem I am so lost on this it won't crank even with the remote starter switch old plug that you just jumper around me starter solenoid
 
Out of all the changes you've made, the "ground wires" are likely the culprit. Not due to "too many grounds" because that should never be an issue if it's earth to earth. On my '64 the negative battery cable connects to the block and has a connector in the middle of the cable that connects to the frame. That should be all that is needed.

What problem you were trying to fix before making all the part replacements mentioned in your post?
 
When did the wires fry? As soon as you connected the battery or when you tried to start it? You have a dead short somewhere in the main harness. New cars have fusible links coming off the battery to the main junctions to prevent full meltdown from a short.
I purchased a battery switch from Casco so I can disconnect the battery at a moment's notice.
 
Slowly been restoring all the cars lights to led and getting the dash reassembled after being removed to get refinished now that all the gages are lit up the gas gage won't register correct fuel level even though new gas tank and sending unit and gas lines and fuel pump.

Today replaced the accel points elininator as it was not reading correct voltage, found the fusible link wire was not connected well, and the maine coil wire was almost severed at the coil. After fixing all these things it still is barely starting and won't idel under 1500 rpms without stalling, moved the distributer to the best value condition.?..little to no improvement, replaced the distributer cap and rotor, new wires.....i am freaking losing my mind tring to solve this....maybe the carb is drowning the engine in gas as it is burning my eyes badly and getting 2 to 3 miles to the gallon based on last trip...it is a brand new edelbrock 650 cfm 4 barrel and the engine has a performer camshaft with new lifters...lower end rebuilt less than 300 miles ago ( over 10 years ago)
Currently compresion accross all 8 cyclinders is between 145 and 150 psi dry and when i add some oil it goes up to 175 to 180 psi. This is due to the body shop left the car without hood or air cleaner out in lot and then started up to move car mixed in the rain water with the oil and delivered the car 1 year later with the engine seized tight.
I spent 2 weeks freeing and flushing out the motor several times and up to a few days ago it was running pretty well. I and completely stumped? Oh I forgot to mention I had the old coil wired up backwards to the coil from the accel points eliminator module i have no idea how it was running at all....i am beginning to think the car is possessed
 
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