64 Flairbird overheating.


Well-Known Member
Yes, I need to tune/timing and check the plugs, last owner just put a new carb on, but it's a Holley 2b.
So I looked up the 2B and I think that is probably your problem. Looks like it is a two barrel 500 CFM carb. The 390 can accommodate a 670 CFM four barrel carb which is what I'm running on my '64. Your car could be starving for gas because of an undersized carb.

Another thing to check is the air cleaner assembly. The stock air cleaner assemblies on these cars are cleverly designed to deprive the engines of enough air to run well. You can tell if this is the issue by running the car down the road without the air cleaner assembly, so there is no restriction on air getting into the carb.
Things are sounding off on this car. One can't just put a 2 barrel on what is supposed to be a 4 barrel manifold and those manifolds are not light or easy to change. Makes me wonder if it received a used engine at one time.
It is highly possible that car had an engine swap, and it can be just as possible that there's a 352 lurking in there. I would be researching what numbers I could find on that motor, or even pulling it and popping the pan off. Is there an aluminum engine Id tag on it?
Wishing you good luck.


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Hey Professor, doesn't appear you've proven it's running hot. Easy to do, as per above advice.

Think of the engine as an air pump. If air into the engine is restricted by a too small carb, then it won't develop the power it's capable of.
My best advice right now would be to install a mechanical temp gauge for the time being. Try a complete tune up and check the timing. It is also advisable to check the slack in the timing chain.i have posted this before but here goes.
Remove distributor cap, turn engine over with a breaker bar to top dead center.(either direction is ok). Now watch the rotor and turn engine opposite direction. Stop as soon as the rotor starts to move! Now read the timing marks, if at 10 degrees or more you need a timing chain. A bad timing chain will cause poor idling power loss etc.


Well-Known Member
Sure, run it without the radiator cap and make sure the coolant is circulating which would verify the thermostat has opened. It'll need to idle for a few minutes until the thermostat opens but then you'll see the coolant rushing by. Wondering if after changing the hoses you filled the cooling system to the brim? Also, alway good to be suspicious of your temp gauge. Check actual radiator temp by using an infra red thermo gun and checking temp at the top radiator tank.
I run a radiator cap with a temp gauge in it. It is very accurate and can be bought at most parts stores