'55 - bleeding entire brake system

[Y-8]

I have installed a new brake system from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders and everything in between. I have manual brakes, I do not have a power booster.

I am wondering if I can gravity bleed the entire system - My question is concerning the master cylinder, will it bleed properly by simply allowing gravity to push the air out or is it necessary to manually bleed the master cylinder first? I am choosing to gravity feed because the entire system is dry and it seems that it will use less fluid, mix less air into the fluid and take less fluid overall. It will take a lot longer but is gentler on the system.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[1957Bird]

I did much the same to my 57 last year including dual res. Master cyl.
I vacuum bled everything starting from the furthest away (with silicone fluid I may add) then did a final 2 person brake pedal bleed capturing fluid in a clear bottle to keep recycling. Vacuum bleeders are available at any parts store around $20.00
System bled out perfectly
System works great now
Also manual, no power booster.
good luck

 

[jack-in-sac]

You can also use aftermarket check valve bleeders to make this a one man operation. I do not think that the system will self bleed by gravity.
Before bleeding wheel cylinders it is usually correct to bench bleed the master cylinder. This can be done in situ by running a return to the mc from the outlet back to the resevoire.
Start with passenger rear first.
Driver side rear second.
Passenger side front third.
Driver side front last.

 

[1957Bird]

I did in fact bench bleed master before installation.
wicked easy in a vice with a #3 Phillips screw driver for a push rod.
That dime store vacuum bleeder makes the job a breeze

 

[Y-8]

When hooking up the master cylinder after bench bleeding; when the bleeder fittings are removed how manageable is the fluid running out while attaching the permanent line fittings?

Thanks for sharing your experiences

 

[1957Bird]

Not much gets out
Just put a rag below to catch.
are you doing dual res.master??

 

[Critterpainer]

Put the cap on the master first just to keep it clean first. make sure the rubber plug is in the outlet hole until you are ready to install the line. Yes there will be a bit of fluid loss but is should be much less than a teaspoon if you don't walk away before the line is connected and tightened.

 

[Y-8]

Thanks for the leakage info, that was bugging me.

I am installing a dual master cylinder. I found a dual that fits perfect and without a residual valve.

Raybestos Master Cylinder no residual valve on either manual or power

Ford – Granada

Master Cylinders

Years Fitment Notes Element 3 Brake Master Cylinder

1975-1978 Manual Brakes; Front Disc; Rear Drum MC36440

Power Brakes; Front Disc; Rear Drum MC36445

1979-1980 Manual Brakes MC36440 Power Brakes MC36445



Maveric

1974-1977 Manual Brakes MC36440

1975 Power Brakes; Front Disc; Rear Drum MC36445

1976-1977 Power Brakes MC36445

 

[paul5456]

You have to have a residual pressure valve. That is why a combo valve is used - it is both a residual pressure valve and a proportioning valve. If you have all drums, you don't need a proportioning valve if the brakes are otherwise stock

 

[Y-8]

I have disc brakes at all four wheels. As I understand it: A residual valve is for disc drum combo, it keeps a bit of pressure to the drum brakes which require more fluid to operate. A proportioning valve is to balance pressure front to rear.