2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford Thunderbird Fuel Pump 4W4Z9H307AA | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

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2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford Thunderbird Fuel Pump 4W4Z9H307AA

Where can one purchase the float aka fuel gauge sending unit for the Left/Driver side; or the entire assembly for the Left/Driver side? I think the OEM for just the float/sending unit is yw4z 9275 AA and for the entire assembly yw4z 9275 BC, right? The passenger side/right pump was/is PS 149; the left may have been PS 117, right?
 
HeyTBaby said:
Where can one purchase the float aka fuel gauge sending unit for the Left/Driver side; or the entire assembly for the Left/Driver side? I think the OEM for just the float/sending unit is yw4z 9275 AA and for the entire assembly yw4z 9275 BC, right? The passenger side/right pump was/is PS 149; the left may have been PS 117, right?
Click to expand...
I've been looking for a replacement left /drivers side pump for several days without luck. I understand this pump is passive and has no moving parts and normally never fails. My dealer thinks it may have a crack in the body as the new passenger side pump they installed still doesn't work so they are blaming it on the driver's side pump. If you happen to find one let us know.
 
gmsnowball said:
I've been looking for a replacement left /drivers side pump for several days without luck. I understand this pump is passive and has no moving parts and normally never fails. My dealer thinks it may have a crack in the body as the new passenger side pump they installed still doesn't work so they are blaming it on the driver's side pump. If you happen to find one let us know.
Click to expand...
Can you give more detail by "doesn't work"? I would think the main pump should still be able to supply some fuel to the engine. I agree the passive parts should not fail. Maybe a hose on the passive unit has failed? Did the dealer pull the passive unit? Same general procedure as the main pump. Also is the car crash rollover fuel cutoff switch properly engaged? It's behind driver's side kick panel (panel in front of door). The fuel float/gauge unit could rust out and cause inaccurate fuel gauge reading but would not cause fuel delivery problems.
 
Dealer says the new passenger side pump is only putting out 7 psi and blames it on the drivers side pump. They think it may have a crack in the body. I have a replacement on the way and will ask the dealer if they thought to reset the fuel pump and disconnect the battery. This is the third fuel pump in 5 years with only 14K on the car. I will do a failure analysis on the drivers side pump when it’s removed.
 
gmsnowball said:
Dealer says the new passenger side pump is only putting out 7 psi and blames it on the drivers side pump. They think it may have a crack in the body. I have a replacement on the way and will ask the dealer if they thought to reset the fuel pump and disconnect the battery. This is the third fuel pump in 5 years with only 14K on the car. I will do a failure analysis on the drivers side pump when it’s removed.
Click to expand...
Where are you getting a replacement drivers side from?
 
Need some advice.....I replaced my passenger side fuel pump on my 2002, car finally starts up and runs. BUT, when i fill it with gas at the pump, the gas leaks between the ring and the top of the fuel pump. It does not seem to leak when i dive it. I tightened the ring as tight as i could with the tool from Amazon, but still leaks only when i fill it at the pump. A black gasket came with the kit, not a green one that was on the car, not sure if that matters or not.

I planned to check the gasket but now I cannot get the fuel lines to disconnect. I push in the tabs that the elbow connectors insert into, but the lines will not come loose at all. Is there a trick that anyone knows that can help me get these disconnected? i'm at the point of trying to figure out how i can cut the fuel line and figure out if there is a way to use a fuel line connector to reconnect, something like this: Amazon.com: Fuel Line Connector for 5/16" OD Nylon Tubing Hose Union Quick Connect, Fit for 8mm OD Nylon Tube/Gas Line Pack of 4 : Automotive

ANY help would be appreciated.

I bought the Delphi FG1340 Amazon.com: Delphi FG1340 Fuel Module : Automotive
 
ihang10 said:
Greetings, the trouble started out when we drove the car all day, no issues. Started home and the engine was sputtering a bit and I immediately thought more than one COP died suddenly. Limped it down about 300' and it died altogether. Welp, that probably wasn't a COP issue. Get home, scanned the CEL, P1233.

Checked F7 - good
Checked IFS - not tripped
No fuel at the rail

Had over 1/4 tank of fresh(er) so figured it was the right (passenger) fuel pump. I just didn't feel like troubleshooting any further than that, and figured the pump was probably on borrowed time anyway

Bought a pump and spanner tool from Amazon. Spanner tool is a must to get the fuel pump flange off.

Removal was largely uneventful.

Installation hint: there are two tabs on the top of the fuel pump where the connectors are, those tabs line up squarely with the fuel tank. It took us at least two hours of trying to get that flange together before we realized those tabs and notches needed to be lined up. The flange went back on the first time after that and those tabs and notches help keep the pump from rotating due to the flange being tightened.

Helpful hint: If you're removing the fuel pump (either one), you are in a for penny, in a for a pound and several times my back told me just to remove the front seat to give me some more room. It takes all of 10 minutes to take the seat out, just do it and save yourself a back spasm.

So I do all that, clear the codes, start it up: cranks, no start and CEL is on. Now I am in a pretty bad mental state. Same code: P1233.

I started troubleshooting from the beginning and somewhere, someway, somehow, F17 blew. Replaced that, and the car fired right up.

YMMV.
Click to expand...
Are you saying that those two tabs from the fuel pump have some kind of slot that they insert into on the car? What exactly do you mean by "hose tabs and notches needed to be lined up".

i'm in well over 2 hrs trying to get that ring back on tight with no leak.
 
Hello I recently had a car shipped from Florida 30k miles it has not been driven in 4 years all is well except for a check engine indicating fuel level sensor needs to be replaced. When the car was loaded on the truck it had 3/4 tank. Check engine was on. When it got to my dealership it read empty so we put a full tank wondering if it leaked from somewhere took 3 gallons and it was full. Cleared the engine light gas guage read full. Drove it for 5 minutes light came back on. Slammed back to empty. I bought the pictured fuel pump assembly since the level sensors aren't available. I'm hoping I bought the right one. Any insight?1000006058.jpg

I realize there is 2 pumps. I cannot find a single part for the secondary or primary. This was the only one that fit the car and didn't specify which one it replaces. I work at a chevy dealer. And I have our vette tech working on it. But he is scratching his head
 
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