2002-2003-2004-2004 Passenger Door Lock Actuator | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

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2002-2003-2004-2004 Passenger Door Lock Actuator

  • Thread starter Thread starter artlewi
  • Start date Start date
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artlewi

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Thunderbird Year
2002
The electric door locking/unlocking system, in the passenger door, is sporadically working on my 2002 bird. I can unlock the door using the inside handle and it always locks using the electric system. However, most of the time it will not fully unlock using the electric system. The manual button nest to the window appears to move some but will not come up all of the way.Has anyone had this experience? Anyone know what I need to do to fix this?

Moderator Update: Install this part to fix- https://amzn.to/2R2J0Kh

You will also need a door panel trim remover set

acuator.jpg

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
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I just replaced mine (passenger side) a couple of weeks ago. It took me about 2 hours from start to finish. I went very slow in removing the door trim because I didn't want to break anything. I bought a new actuator from eBay for $8 bucks. The shape of the new actuator might look different than original, but it mounts in the bracket perfectly and that's what counts.

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg
 
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JMac4506 said:
Ok...how did you remove the panel to get to the inner workings?
I removed all the torx screws but the door panel still feels really solid
Click to expand...

You will need to buy door panel/trim removal tool set like this set from Ebay to pop the panel out, which is held in place by several (8) white plugs (circled in black in the picture below):

www.ebay.com

6pc Metal Pry Tool Set Auto Panel Door Trim Upholstery Clip Remover for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for 6pc Metal Pry Tool Set Auto Panel Door Trim Upholstery Clip Remover at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
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1-Door_Panel.jpg


The door panel removal instructions (credited to Robust, aka Robert 05 Cashmere) are below:

Begin by carefully popping loose the “sail panel”. This triangular-shaped part (located above the door trim panel towards the front of the door) contains wiring that leads to the mirror, so it remains hanging with the door. The sail panel attaches with 2 pivot connections along the bottom and a push connection near the top, so begin removing the panel at the top. In the photo below I have drawn arrows to the 2 pivot connections and the push connection.

door-connectors.jpg

Remove the rubber cover from the bottom of the recessed door pull area. I used a small screwdriver to get under an edge and up it came. Underneath the rubber bottom you will see one screw. Remove it.

rubber.jpg

Remove the Door Handle Cup Assembly. This is the part that contains the switches for the locks and windows. Look at the 2 photos below and observe that there is a pivot connection in the rear and a push connection in the front. There are also small friction connections along the sides.

door-connectors2.jpg

window-lock-connectors.jpg

Carefully pry this part up from the FRONT (meaning the edge towards the front of the car). Prying from the rear will cause damage. When the Door Handle Cup Assembly is loose, disconnect the wiring from the door lock and window switches. Note which plug is for which switch, as they appear interchangeable. In my case the green plug is for the locks and the blue is for the windows.


On the exposed end of the open door you will see two screws attaching the trim panel to the door. Remove them.
door-screws1.jpg

Along the bottom of the trim panel you will see two screws. Remove them.
bottom-trim-panel-screws.jpg

The speaker cover has 2 push connections towards the front of the car and 2 pivot connections towards the rear. Remove the speaker cover by carefully pulling or prying outward from the front. Prying from the rear will cause damage. See photo.

speaker-cover.jpg
Look at the photo below of the back of the removed trim panel. You can see that the speaker comes with the trim panel. Observe the locations of the speaker bracket screws and the friction push connectors then follow the next 2 instructions.
speaker-bracket-screws.jpg
Remove the 3 screws (circled in blue) that connect the speaker bracket to the door frame. This allows the speaker to release from the door and come with the door trim.

Next, carefully pry the trim panel from the door frame. When you have the trim panel loose, disconnect the speaker wiring and the trunk lock release wiring. Now you have successfully removed the door trim panel. Place the trim panel in your laydown area insulation side up.
 
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OK, got my lock actuator replaced tonight. Wasn't too bad of a job.
I used the link above from U5512 and ordered through Ebay.
Here are a few things that I thought would have been a little helpful if known ahead of time. Hope this helps someone out down the road...
After removing all torx screws, the door is held in place by these white mushroom snaps. Some of them pulled of the door, others pulled out of the panel. I've enclosed a pic of the location of these snaps. If they stick in the door, you can pull them off and slide them back into place on the door panel.
2nd thing... the rods that are connected to the lock mechanism can come loose by unsnapping them. In the picture I have the two yellow clips circled. The clip 1 (Outer Handle) at the small yellow section flips out and releases the rod. Clip 2, push it back away from rod. I actually left this one on and still got job done. The electrical connections on the lock/actuator are bit of a bear. Unclip these and pull off in order to bring the lock assembly out of the door.
After replacing actuator, placing the door panel back on was a bit taxing... you need to align 7 snap pins and the manual lock rod through the panel all at the same time. I found starting at the top was the best approach. All of those snaps are in a straight line.
Pop all the snaps, replace the screws, door pocket, corner molding, speaker cover... Done! Works great and saved prob a couple hundred in repair cost!

door1.JPG door2.JPG panel snaps.JPG rods.JPG
 
Belzbird said:
What are the steps for removal of 2003 drivers side inner door panel.
I don’t like to break things.
Click to expand...
I wish I had inquired about this, I broke the cup in the door (tried to remove it from the wrong end), I also broke the triangular plastic piece at top front of door, I also broke my window and door switches as the weight of the speaker will break them if you let the speaker hang. One word of advice, make sure you compare the switches you receive with the ones in your car; I was shipping the wrong ones and did not realize it until I went to plug one of them into the receptacle; the nibs on the sides did not line up, so I had to modify it to fit. I had already crimped and shrunk sealed all of the connections. Sometimes you learn the hard way 🙁.
 
Thanks for the great information. New owner of a 2003 bought without the passenger door lock actuator working. Not sure if it was mentioned before, but coating the clips with petrolium jelly made reinstallation of the door panel easy.

Since this is my first repair, I have a question for the forum. Upon completion of the job, I didn't have any left-over parts. Is that common for this car? Quite unusual for me 😉
 
Today I finally got around to troubleshoot the passenger side door lock. I looked up all past post and I appreciated the pics on the door panel removal, I verified that the switch itself worked by placing it on the drivers side and it worked. Next I took off the door lock actuator, found one in town and replaced it. It did not work. I checked the leads at the switch for voltage and was ok. Then I checked at the connector at the lock actuator and got quick spurt of voltage (low) when hitting the switch and then nothing. I've checked all fuses in the car (kick panel, trunk, engine) and all are good, Could this be a computer module problem? Stumped right now.
 
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Ratripower said:
Today I finally got around to troubleshoot the passenger side door lock. I looked up all past post and I appreciated the pics on the door panel removal, I verified that the switch itself worked by placing it on the drivers side and it worked. Next I took off the door lock actuator, found one in town and replaced it. It did not work. I checked the leads at the switch for voltage and was ok. Then I checked at the connector at the actuator and got quick spurt of voltage (low) when hitting the switch and then nothing. I've checked all fuses in the car (kick panel, trunk, engine) and all are good, Could this be a computer module problem? Stumped right now.
Click to expand...
I had this problem as soon as my warranty was up (of course). Dealer replaced either the FEM or REM. You may want to check those somehow.
 
This rod is supposed to connect to the DRIVER side lock mechanism and the exterior door lock cylinder. However, I of course didn't take picture of this particular connection before I started, like a goof.

I was able to replace the actuator and auto locks are working great, but I can't figure this out and am worried about the battery dying and getting locked out of the car.

Does anyone have any info how this rod from the driver side door mechanism connects to the exterior key cylinder?
20201104_185805.jpg
 
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I’m trying to replace my actuator in my 2003 Thunderbird passenger door I have the panel off but I can’t get the actuator out the yellow clips will not release what do I do
 
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