1997 developed intermittent miss | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models

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1997 developed intermittent miss

  • Thread starter Thread starter missinglinc
  • Start date Start date
So when it's cold, it runs perfect, seems if it was plugs or coil packs it would do it all the time regardless of operating temp... IF you got it down pat that this miss ONLY occurs after car is up to operating temp, that would steer me toward relays heating up and becoming faulty OR something along the line of open-closed circuit stuff, like what the O2 sensors go thru after reaching operating temp....I'd still be temped to swap that ccrm box, a heated up relay in there could play with electrical, and cause a miss..........
Now I know your intake manifold is different from my '95, but when it comes to swapping the ect sensor, were talking about the one with 2 or 3 wires coming out of it right ? not the single wire one that just works the gauge in the cluster right ?
Now you always say that it starts this missing after it comes to operating temp during a short drive, will it do this missing if it was not moving at all and just sitting in the driveway as it came up to normal operating temp ? That would be interesting, start her up cold and let it do nothing but idle till coolant temp shows normal temp, is it sitting there "missing" at idle and has never been moved yet ?

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Oh, one more thing, I've never seen a bad coil pack on these 4.6's, hardly ever a bad plug, but several times I've see some bad wires, from what I've seen, wires are good for about 60k on these 4.6's and that is good one's, I just put NGK wires on mine, and checked the 60k motorcraft wires that I took off and sure enough, 2 were out of range..........
 
The coolant temperature sensor is located beside the thermostat housing on my 97, according to the component locator that I looked it up on. The one for the gauge is located on the right side of the intake manifold. I took out the maf sensor and cleaned it again, took it for a road test, found it now had a hesitation, realized I had forgotten to plug it back in before I closed the hood. Stopped and plugged it in and hesitation was gone. I thought it was odd that it would run at all without the maf being connected.
I realized when I was working on it yesterday which bulkhead connector you were referring to previously and took it apart, cleaned and applied some dielectric grease. It was pretty clean but I took an air blowgun to both sides and also a good shot of sensor cleaner. I changed the coil pack on the passenger side, putting the one I had recently removed back on.
Test drive revealed no changes, so I also swapped the other coil pack, and cleaned up the tps connector and a couple of other ones.
Test drive, no appreciable difference, still has a slight misfire but it's at least drivable. New maf sensor is supposed to be delivered today so I will try that and see what if anything improves. I will pull the connector on the ccrm too and inspect it.
Haven't tried to let it idle until it reaches operating temperature yet, but I will if the maf replacement doesn't solve it.
As for a coil pack going bad, I had 2 of them go south on my 2002 Taurus 3.0 liter dohc engine, both times the engine developed a misfire once fully warmed up. The original one went at about 120k miles, and the new replacement lasted about 20k miles. Sold that car last year with 160k miles, still ran excellent but rust had taken a good hold of it, still have a new in box coil pack for it.
 
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