1995 maintenance tips | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1995 maintenance tips

  • Thread starter Thread starter mhg
  • Start date Start date
M
Reaction score
2
Thunderbird Year
none
Hello to all, I owned a 1995 4.6 which I bought new. It was a great car with features ahead of it's time. I sold it at 138k miles with only tires, brake pads, spark plugs and wires needing replacement. I did replace the serpentine belt around 60k even though it was fine out of caution and put the old one in the trunk for a spare. I changed the oil about every 7k with Ford filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. Each time I changed the engine oil I also drain the transmission pan and add new oil. I did do the trans oil and filter around 40k. I would also suck as much fluid out of the power steering reservoir as much I could and add new fluid. I would try to flush the brake system every two years. I was always reading about people have problems with the brakes and transmission. I believe it was due to poor maintenance. I hope these tips help someone. Now I am going to try to do the for sale section.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Hello to all, I owned a 1995 4.6 which I bought new. It was a great car with features ahead of it's time. I sold it at 138k miles with only tires, brake pads, spark plugs and wires needing replacement. I did replace the serpentine belt around 60k even though it was fine out of caution and put the old one in the trunk for a spare. I changed the oil about every 7k with Ford filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. Each time I changed the engine oil I also drain the transmission pan and add new oil. I did do the trans oil and filter around 40k. I would also suck as much fluid out of the power steering reservoir as much I could and add new fluid. I would try to flush the brake system every two years. I was always reading about people have problems with the brakes and transmission. I believe it was due to poor maintenance. I hope these tips help someone. Now I am going to try to do the for sale section.
Wonderful information. I have always wondered about doing what you did. It seems to make a lot of sense to me. I have always wondered about flushing the brake system; nobody seems to understand the concept where I live. They look at me funny when I ask. I believe I will take your advice and do a little each time we do an oil change. Thank you!
 
Wonderful information. I have always wondered about doing what you did. It seems to make a lot of sense to me. I have always wondered about flushing the brake system; nobody seems to understand the concept where I live. They look at me funny when I ask. I believe I will take your advice and do a little each time we do an oil change. Thank you!
Brake fluid absorbs moisture and that is what causes the failures in brake system components. A vacuum bleeder makes it easy, but two people can still do iot with out too much trouble. While in the process do not let the new fluid in the reservoir get too low or you will suck air into the system and that is a pain. I suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and and new before starting the bleeding process. Take your time and enjoy it, Justmejnet.
 
I have a 1996 with the 4.6 V8. I just replaced the power window motors, and on the advice of my mechanic, I replaced the mass air flow sensor (no longer available thru Ford) with an aftermarket Walker unit which was visually identical. About an hour later, the check engine light went on, and the engine idle was too low and the engine stalled. I was able to nurse it back home using some left foot braking and keeping engine rpm up a bit. (The MAF was replaced after my mechanic pulled a trouble code). This morning, I started the engine, no check engine light, no trouble code, engine was purring. Q: is there a learning curve after MAF replacement that I was supposed to follow? Sorry for going off topic a bit. I also plan to service the transmission and flush the brake fluid. Car has just over 71k miles and is in great condition, with new struts/shocks, alternator, and serpentine belt. Also wondering if I might have carbon build up in throttle body or maybe a pcv issue.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi. I’m probably going to have to take the ‘bird to my mechanic. I can’t solve the low idle stalling (at about 500 rpm). No trouble code or check engine light. Auto Zone said he thought it might be a vacuum leak. Would a bad pcv cause a low idle? Runs fine from cold start up but when it reaches operating temp and idle rpm drops, it will stall unless engine speed is raised. I have a K and N air filter in the air intake box. Wondering if that would have any possible negative effect. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Hi. I’m probably going to have to take the ‘bird to my mechanic. I can’t solve the low idle stalling (at about 500 rpm). No trouble code or check engine light. Auto Zone said he thought it might be a vacuum leak. Would a bad pcv cause a low idle? Runs fine from cold start up but when it reaches operating temp and idle rpm drops, it will stall unless engine speed is raised. I have a K and N air filter in the air intake box. Wondering if that would have any possible negative effect. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Too much oil on K&N filter can cause mass air flow problems.
 
Back
Top