1969 Thunderbird Clock

[Sammer]

Hello all. I have recently purchased a 1968 Thunderbird clock. It is an original nos product and came in the original box(very cool!!) I hooked up power and it worked great but I cannot adjust the hour, minute or second hands to the appropriate time. There is a/an metal rod at the bottom of the assembly but when I try to pull it out or push it in it does not adjust the hands. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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[Excaliburss]

I would bring it to a local clock repair shop and let them have a look. Take your old clock with you and they maybe can use parts from this one for the new clock. Good luck

 

[Bird 71]

If you carefully bend the metal tabs on the rear cover, you can pull it off to get a look inside. Might be an easy fix.

 

[Excaliburss]

Hi Sammer and all ! My clock does not work anymore and I am working on to get it of the car. Today I gave up, as I do not like to damage anything. Problem 1 : I cant get the knob for the clock adjustment loose and off. Book does not say how to do it - I tried to hold the stem with a little plier and after that try to turn the knob off...but no...it is baked on his axel. Anybody can help me ?
Problem 2 : Book says bezel with the glass is hold down with retainer push bottoms....I really do not have a glue how to get them loose. I was under there with a knife to wipp them out, but I stopped this try when I heard that the glass may crack. They are really hard engaging. One of you guys have done this before, please help me and reply.
Appreciate any answer !

 

[Bird 71]

Hi Sammer and all ! My clock does not work anymore and I am working on to get it of the car. Today I gave up, as I do not like to damage anything. Problem 1 : I cant get the knob for the clock adjustment loose and off. Book does not say how to do it - I tried to hold the stem with a little plier and after that try to turn the knob off...but no...it is baked on his axel. Anybody can help me ?
Problem 2 : Book says bezel with the glass is hold down with retainer push bottoms....I really do not have a glue how to get them loose. I was under there with a knife to wipp them out, but I stopped this try when I heard that the glass may crack. They are really hard engaging. One of you guys have done this before, please help me and reply.
Appreciate any answer !

What year are you working on?

 

[Excaliburss]

68 T-Bird - sorry if I dint mensioned

 

[Bird 71]

68 T-Bird - sorry if I dint mensioned

Remove Screw from center of clock know with small flat blade driver- them remove woodgrain trim bezel screws from above gauges, and 2 or 3 below which are behind lower dash panel and remove cluster bezel- now remove black cluster trim screws and remove cluster trim- you do not have to remove lens because it comes off with black cover. Now clock should be exposed, and 3 screws are accesessible- remove screws and gently unplug clock. Note all other gauges and cluster stay in place.

 

[Excaliburss]

Thanks Bird 71 ! On the clock in my car there is no screw on the adjustment knob. I was thinking the knob was screwed on the adjustment axel to threads and I hold the axel with mini pliers for so screw the knob of....but no, it just does not move. More force will brake it I guess. As long the knob is not off, there is no point of going further with this project.

 

[Bird 71]

Thanks Bird 71 ! On the clock in my car there is no screw on the adjustment knob. I was thinking the knob was screwed on the adjustment axel to threads and I hold the axel with mini pliers for so screw the knob of....but no, it just does not move. More force will brake it I guess. As long the knob is not off, there is no point of going further with this project.

Hmmmm. I dont recall ever seeing a clock on any of these with no screw in the knob center. I know of no other way of getting the lens off without breakage. I am afraid the only option in this case is to cut the shaft off with the knob attached and either replace the shaft or the entire clock.

 

[Excaliburss]

Dear Bird 71 ! I have to admit that I am an old stupid and half blind chap....Today, equipped with glasses on my nose, I could see the screw you have been talking about. Really small thing😛 !As I gave up working with this because of my blindness I will start all over one of the coming days and see if I can get this clock working again.
Of course, when working with all this, it would be haven to get all dash cluster out of the car and on the workbench to change all bulbs and give all a good clean. As I did loose all cluster screws once before, I could not manage to get it out of its hole, as the separate part for wiper/rear vent was blocking up. I had the four screws away for this part....it came loose, but not forward or out. Not even enough to pull the big part with speedo/clock/fuel and amp meter. So I pushed everything back in and mounted everything back together again. I know I have to release speedo-wire from underneath, taking the lower plate and radio away, but I am still blocked of the dash part with the wiper unit as I explained.
If you like to tell me anything more about all this, I would be very happy and maybe one day I get it done without any damage and more grey hair.
Cheerio
Fred

 

[Bird 71]

Dear Bird 71 ! I have to admit that I am an old stupid and half blind chap....Today, equipped with glasses on my nose, I could see the screw you have been talking about. Really small thing😛 !As I gave up working with this because of my blindness I will start all over one of the coming days and see if I can get this clock working again.
Of course, when working with all this, it would be haven to get all dash cluster out of the car and on the workbench to change all bulbs and give all a good clean. As I did loose all cluster screws once before, I could not manage to get it out of its hole, as the separate part for wiper/rear vent was blocking up. I had the four screws away for this part....it came loose, but not forward or out. Not even enough to pull the big part with speedo/clock/fuel and amp meter. So I pushed everything back in and mounted everything back together again. I know I have to release speedo-wire from underneath, taking the lower plate and radio away, but I am still blocked of the dash part with the wiper unit as I explained.
If you like to tell me anything more about all this, I would be very happy and maybe one day I get it done without any damage and more grey hair.
Cheerio
Fred

Hahahah....no problem!!! The rear vent/wiper combo switch is a piece of work to get out.....as I recall the wiper knob comes off and then the vent controls. After that you need to manipulate your wrist behind the switch pod to remove the screws holding the wiper switch to the case......but ......you "should" be able to pull the wiper cluster out just enough to allow removal of the main instrument cluster, should be enough slack after the 3 screws are removed.

 

[Excaliburss]

I try again tomorrow to get the clock out. But the black cluster trim is hold on by these funny push in retainers. Look like rivets in a way. I wonder what kind of tool I can use to get them lifted out. They almost flush with the black cluster and really hard on. Screws would be easier for sure.....

 

[Bird 71]

View attachment 1475 View attachment 1475 I try again tomorrow to get the clock out. But the black cluster trim is hold on by these funny push in retainers. Look like rivets in a way. I wonder what kind of tool I can use to get them lifted out. They almost flush with the black cluster and really hard on. Screws would be easier for sure.....

Yup. they are a biatch to get out, but they prevent over tightening screws. I pry them out carefully with a small flat blade screwdriver. Then you can get under the tab. But-sometimes the flat tab comes off....then you have to carefully remove it with a small needle nose.

 

[Excaliburss]

Thanks so much again B-71 ! That's exactly what I thought it will be = a pain in the A. Easy to jump off and scratch a glass or other. One more question if you don't mind....are these small devils plastic or metal ?
Thank u

 

[Bird 71]

Thanks so much again B-71 ! That's exactly what I thought it will be = a pain in the A. Easy to jump off and scratch a glass or other. One more question if you don't mind....are these small devils plastic or metal ?
Thank u

No prob! The retainers are some sort of metal or stainless.

 

[Excaliburss]

Thanks ! Most kind of u to reply so fast ! Yeah, I was afraid they are metal....Plastic I would rather drill out with a Dremel tool. Well, lets see what happens....

 

[Excaliburss]

Hi all and especially Bird 71 ! Today I did it !!! Clock is out and nothing got damaged - thanks to my new glasses 😛......
This clock of mine went on my working table and I took it apart for a check of what's inside. I repaired a couple of clocks from that area before in my life, so I think I can get a working result....maybe. As I found about 3 grams of mysterious black dust inside the clocks housing I started to clean it up with a mini-spray gun and lighter fuel with low air pressure and everything turned to a new look. Pushing the wind up mechanism the clock started to run nicely. Unfortunately I found out fast, that the electric actuator in the top plant of the clock was burned . 0 - Ohms means "burned". I think once in the time the mechanism was stuck of dirt and when the connection was made to wind it up, it just staid there and burned the windings of this little magnet.
Question : Is there anybody who has a clock laying around with a unburned clocks top plant? It stands on 3 studs and they do a kind of rivet action on top to hold all together. I used some small plier to bend them a bit together and got the piece released. It is in no other way connected to the rest of the clock. When off, you hold a clear plastic in your hand with the electric actuator / magnet. THIS IS WHAT I NEED ! If anybody has that, lets negotiate and get it to me somehow. Thanks, thanks !!
As usual I will be very glad for any reply !
Fred from Spain

 

[Bird 71]

Fred. Good to hear some success. Most of the time all these clocks need is a fresh dab of quality solder on both wind up contacts. I have never seen one with a burnt electro-magnet....yet. Are you certain? Apply 12 volts to the pin at the back of the clock, ground the housing and see if the magnet arm slams the winder arm. It should if you have a good contact between the 2 points.

 

[Excaliburss]

Yes, I did this already - I am very sure that it is burned as it smells burned and the lacquer that cover the windings is cooked up ---- but I think I was lucky... just found on eBay.com a NOS clock for 40 Bucks and made the order. There will be some shipping cost to Spain, but that was an unbeatable price for a new clock, don't u think?

 

[Bird 71]

Yes, I did this already - I am very sure that it is burned as it smells burned and the lacquer that cover the windings is cooked up ---- but I think I was lucky... just found on eBay.com a NOS clock for 40 Bucks and made the order. There will be some shipping cost to Spain, but that was an unbeatable price for a new clock, don't u think?

Wow! Sounds too good to be true!!