jon774
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- Last seen
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2018
- Thunderbird Year
- 1968
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Nice project you got there. When I was ready to do my '73 two years ago, looked all over to change out my fronts too. Would have had to do some custom stuff ( very costly). Decided to go with modern slotted rotors, rebuilt the calipers and added real good pads. Went with Wilwood's disc and mini-drum for the parking brakes on the rear. Did not change out the master cylinder, booster and did not have to change out any brake lines. Extremely happy with the stopping results. Best of luck!Looking to upgrade the front discs to a more powerful design ant to convert the rears to disc. Has anyone with a 67- 70 do this? Working on the hood scoop now!View attachment 3233 View attachment 3234
Nice project you got there. When I was ready to do my '73 two years ago, looked all over to change out my fronts too. Would have had to do some custom stuff ( very costly). Decided to go with modern slotted rotors, rebuilt the calipers and added real good pads. Went with Wilwood's disc and mini-drum for the parking brakes on the rear. Did not change out the master cylinder, booster and did not have to change out any brake lines. Extremely happy with the stopping results. Best of luck!
I rebuilt the engine stroking it as well as putting in a larger intake, bigger carb. I haven't dinoed it but I'm probably pushing 500hp. I rebuild the C6 to handle the extra hp. I changed the rear end to a 3.89 ratio. I also closed in the c channel rear suspension adding a little weight.What are your plans with this car really? Because if its just street driving why not just rebuild the original ones? They are more than capable of stopping the car just fine if you rebuild them. It's what I did on my 1969. As for converting over to rear disc? I'd expect it to be rather simple as the rear end is just a ford 9". Find something compatible with that and has your lug pattern. Hood scoop looks good, but did you know there is a possible option for a shaker style scoop to?
Don't think the rotors came with the bearings, but I did upgrade to some good American made bearings! At the time I went through the suspension completely replacing all the rubber bushings and upgraded to as many Moog parts that were available just to beef things up. Really did not have to do all the engine work you have done. Only had to change out the valve stem seals to stop that 60,000 mile 460 from smoking after the rebuilding the C6 tranny.Thanks for response! Did the new front slotted rotors come with bearings like the originals? Can't seem to find them for my 68.
I've been looking at conversion kits for the rear, Wilwood looks like the best.
Nice ride Jon. I just picked up a 67 TBird. Looking to upgrade brakes and convert drums to disc in the rear. how did your brake upgrade go?Looking to upgrade the front discs to a more powerful design ant to convert the rears to disc. Has anyone with a 67- 70 do this? Working on the hood scoop now!View attachment 3233 View attachment 3234
Finished the rear brakes. It was pretty easy, though I had to machine down the axel flanges down to fit the new rotors. I also installed a brake line kit. Everything works, though the brakes are still a bit spongy. I am going to have to bleed them yet again.I have yet to do any brake upgrades. Winter is my car building season. I will update when I get back on it.
Eh sorry repeated my old post. As with the front brakes... wasn’t the 68 the last year for the four piston calipers? I’d think there were more than capable of stopping your car. Otherwise I’d look at some performance brand like with larger diameter rotors, cross drilled or slotted for better stopping power.I don't see how you are not stopping fast enough. Normal driving correct? I redid all the brakes on my 1969 tbird, but just stock drums on the back and rotors on the front. She easily clamps down if I were to mash them. Though you have to be careful you don't lock them up.
A new way for a lot of you to do your brake bleeding from now on.Finished the rear brakes. It was pretty easy, though I had to machine down the axel flanges down to fit the new rotors. I also installed a brake line kit. Everything works, though the brakes are still a bit spongy. I am going to have to bleed them yet again.