1968 Front brake upgrade and rear disc conversion

biddle

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Please include the model year of your car in the title when posting. I have added this for you. Thanks for posting.
 
Looking to upgrade the front discs to a more powerful design ant to convert the rears to disc. Has anyone with a 67- 70 do this? Working on the hood scoop now! View attachment 3233 View attachment 3234
Nice project you got there. When I was ready to do my '73 two years ago, looked all over to change out my fronts too. Would have had to do some custom stuff ( very costly). Decided to go with modern slotted rotors, rebuilt the calipers and added real good pads. Went with Wilwood's disc and mini-drum for the parking brakes on the rear. Did not change out the master cylinder, booster and did not have to change out any brake lines. Extremely happy with the stopping results. Best of luck!:D
 
Nice project you got there. When I was ready to do my '73 two years ago, looked all over to change out my fronts too. Would have had to do some custom stuff ( very costly). Decided to go with modern slotted rotors, rebuilt the calipers and added real good pads. Went with Wilwood's disc and mini-drum for the parking brakes on the rear. Did not change out the master cylinder, booster and did not have to change out any brake lines. Extremely happy with the stopping results. Best of luck!:D
 
Thanks for response! Did the new front slotted rotors come with bearings like the originals? Can't seem to find them for my 68.
I've been looking at conversion kits for the rear, Wilwood looks like the best.
 
What are your plans with this car really? Because if its just street driving why not just rebuild the original ones? They are more than capable of stopping the car just fine if you rebuild them. It's what I did on my 1969. As for converting over to rear disc? I'd expect it to be rather simple as the rear end is just a ford 9". Find something compatible with that and has your lug pattern. Hood scoop looks good, but did you know there is a possible option for a shaker style scoop to?
 
What are your plans with this car really? Because if its just street driving why not just rebuild the original ones? They are more than capable of stopping the car just fine if you rebuild them. It's what I did on my 1969. As for converting over to rear disc? I'd expect it to be rather simple as the rear end is just a ford 9". Find something compatible with that and has your lug pattern. Hood scoop looks good, but did you know there is a possible option for a shaker style scoop to?
I rebuilt the engine stroking it as well as putting in a larger intake, bigger carb. I haven't dinoed it but I'm probably pushing 500hp. I rebuild the C6 to handle the extra hp. I changed the rear end to a 3.89 ratio. I also closed in the c channel rear suspension adding a little weight.
I want to put on wider tires. All these things makes the car preform better, but after rebuilding the brakes (and added new lines) the brakes feel inadequate.
As for the shaker hood it looks cool, but my intake and carb choice forced me to fabricate my own.
 
Thanks for response! Did the new front slotted rotors come with bearings like the originals? Can't seem to find them for my 68.
I've been looking at conversion kits for the rear, Wilwood looks like the best.
Don't think the rotors came with the bearings, but I did upgrade to some good American made bearings! At the time I went through the suspension completely replacing all the rubber bushings and upgraded to as many Moog parts that were available just to beef things up. Really did not have to do all the engine work you have done. Only had to change out the valve stem seals to stop that 60,000 mile 460 from smoking after the rebuilding the C6 tranny.
 
I have yet to do any brake upgrades. Winter is my car building season. I will update when I get back on it.
Finished the rear brakes. It was pretty easy, though I had to machine down the axel flanges down to fit the new rotors. I also installed a brake line kit. Everything works, though the brakes are still a bit spongy. I am going to have to bleed them yet again.
 
I didn't do the front, though I want to. The car still does not have the stopping capabilities I'd like. I don't know if it's possible to stop this tank any quicker. I got the rear conversation from jeggs. I will get a pic out when I find someone to help bleed them. again.
 
I don't see how you are not stopping fast enough. Normal driving correct? I redid all the brakes on my 1969 tbird, but just stock drums on the back and rotors on the front. She easily clamps down if I were to mash them. Though you have to be careful you don't lock them up.
 
I don't see how you are not stopping fast enough. Normal driving correct? I redid all the brakes on my 1969 tbird, but just stock drums on the back and rotors on the front. She easily clamps down if I were to mash them. Though you have to be careful you don't lock them up.
Eh sorry repeated my old post. As with the front brakes... wasn’t the 68 the last year for the four piston calipers? I’d think there were more than capable of stopping your car. Otherwise I’d look at some performance brand like with larger diameter rotors, cross drilled or slotted for better stopping power.
 
They are single piston calipers. As for driving normal.. well that's what i do in my work truck. I think I need to go through my masters cylinder it may need to have the seals replaced and bench bled. Are you or anyone here aware of any direct fit upgrade calibers or rotors? There's a lot of misinformation on fitment out there. Distributors just wanting to sell product and such. So anyone that has actually done a front brake upgrade on a 67-69 would be my best resource.
 
Well I just went with stock replacement rotors. Had a tough time finding them I’ll tell you. I can’t help you with upgrading for direct fit since it seem stuff like that is pretty much obsolete. It’s either finding something new and have to fabricate or just go with original.
 
Finished the rear brakes. It was pretty easy, though I had to machine down the axel flanges down to fit the new rotors. I also installed a brake line kit. Everything works, though the brakes are still a bit spongy. I am going to have to bleed them yet again.
A new way for a lot of you to do your brake bleeding from now on.
I know a lot of you are still doing the old fashioned way of having someone pump up the brakes while you bleed the wheel cylinders & keep repeating this process to no avail sometimes.
Get yourself a clear pop bottle or jar so you can see through it.
Get yourself 12-16 piece of rubber hose that fits snugly over the wheel cylinder bleeder nipple.
You might have to make it longer if needed
Loosen up the wheel cylinder bleeder but slightly unloosening & tightening it until it's loose. Don't just crank on it and break it.
Make sure the master cylinder if kept full during this process.
Fill the bottle or jar up half way with brake fluid.
Put the rubber hose on wheel cylinder bleeder nipple & the other end down into the brake fluid of bottle or jar.
Unloosen the wheel cylinder bleeder
Have some one pump up the brake pedal slowly & smoothly until all the air bubbles are gone & only brake fluid is coming through the line.
Tighten the Wheel cylinder bleeder
Do this to all 4 brake wheel cylinders & you will have no air in your brake system
THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY TO BLEED BRAKES WITHOUT USING ONE OF THOSE BRAKE BLEEDING MACHINES OR KITS THAT'S NEVER WORKED FOR ME
Try it next time & give me your feedback
 
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