1966 Tbird not starting

[Mmartinez023]

Hello i have a 1966 thunderbird with the 390 in it and i cant get it to start, when i turn the key all i get is a click, ive replaced the starter, starter solenoid, positive and negative wires, made sure it was properly ground, alternator, volatage regulator, and a brand new battery. The car was sitting for a while but it ran when it was parked, i have also changed all fluids in it inuding getting ride of all the old gas and flushing the lines, i can turn it by hand so i know its not locked up, any ideas why it would just give me a clicking sounds when i try and turn it on?

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[Patdown45]

Hello i have a 1966 thunderbird with the 390 in it and i cant get it to start, when i turn the key all i get is a click, ive replaced the starter, starter solenoid, positive and negative wires, made sure it was properly ground, alternator, volatage regulator, and a brand new battery. The car was sitting for a while but it ran when it was parked, i have also changed all fluids in it inuding getting ride of all the old gas and flushing the lines, i can turn it by hand so i know its not locked up, any ideas why it would just give me a clicking sounds when i try and turn it on?

 

[Dj-Dan]

You have the notorious neutral switch problem. It is best you call me because the message will be too long..Don't worry I'm not a stalker but went through the same issue on my 64 T-bird . Take care, Dan (Forest Hill, Md.) ************

 

[Patdown45]

Have you tried bypassing the ignition switch? You can do this quite easily with a remote starter switch. Be sure that have the car in park because it will bypass the neutral safety switch and you could launch the car either forward or backwards if you try this with it in drive or reverse I know I've done it. You can also temporarily verify it's not the starter by taking a screwdriver and jumping the solenoid it'll try to crank and that'll tell you it's not the starter and it's in the switch what you know where the problem is either replace the switch or the starter unlikely it's the starter as it was working it's probably just a loose wire

 

[Dj-Dan]

You can reach under the dash /steering wheel column and feel for the lever. It will click over but the neutral switch issue will not go away until you replace the bottom brushing.

 

[fordrodsteven]

I have never heard of a neutral start switch causing this kind of issue. If the switch is out of adjustment it will not even make a clicking sound as if trying to engage the starter. If you have changed out all the components as listed my guess would be that the starter may not be installed correctly or has the wrong offset / bolt pattern location and is causing the gear to bang against the ring gear and not properly engaging the starter to the teeth.

 

[Patdown45]

Have you tried bypassing the ignition switch? You can do this quite easily with a remote starter switch. Be sure that have the car in park because it will bypass the neutral safety switch and you could launch the car either forward or backwards if you try this with it in drive or reverse I know I've done it. You can also temporarily verify it's not the starter by taking a screwdriver and jumping the solenoid it'll try to crank and that'll tell you it's not the starter and it's in the switch what you know where the problem is either replace the switch or the starter unlikely it's the starter as it was working it's probably just a loose wire

I have never heard of a neutral start switch causing this kind of issue. If the switch is out of adjustment it will not even make a clicking sound as if trying to engage the starter. If you have changed out all the components as listed my guess would be that the starter may not be installed correctly or has the wrong offset / bolt pattern location and is causing the gear to bang against the ring gear and not properly engaging the starter to the teeth.

I have never heard of a neutral start switch causing this kind of issue. If the switch is out of adjustment it will not even make a clicking sound as if trying to engage the starter. If you have changed out all the components as listed my guess would be that the starter may not be installed correctly or has the wrong offset / bolt pattern location and is causing the gear to bang against the ring gear and not properly engaging the starter to the teeth.

Yes it is easy enough to check, all the parts store will check the starter out for you, I almost returned a new starter when I had it out and tried the old junkyard test of hooking a battery with a set of jumper cables to check it wouldn't do anything, but when the parts store checked it in their bench tester it checked out fine, was a loose or bad connection and was fine after.

 

[Mmartinez023]

Ill try taking the starter off and getting it tested, this has been the main problem ive had since ive been trying to start it even before all the new parts.
Now i have another issue, the car was sitting for so long that when i turned the key in the ignition fell apart, anyone know the wires to hor wire it?

 

[fordrodsteven]

I personally would not try to hot wire it and I would just change out the ignition switch or figure out how to put it back together. If I remember correctly there is a start circuit for when you turn the key to the start position. That wire feeds to the starter solonoid to make it crank and start. It also supplies 12V through the start circuit to the ignition circuit for more spark while starting. Then when the key drops back to the run position I think the car has a resistance wire (orange / blue?) that reduces the voltage to the ignition circuit. The intent is to not burn up the points too quickly.
That said, you could jump power to the coil for run power (12V) it will run but will cause burning of the points if run for a long time. Then you can use the old method of actuating at the starter solonoid to make it crank (sparks and all while doing it)

 

[Mmartinez023]

Well it has to be that seitch causing the problem, i ddnt get it started yet but i bypassed the soleniod and the starter was turning and almost started.

 

[Spider]

Well it has to be that seitch causing the problem, i ddnt get it started yet but i bypassed the soleniod and the starter was turning and almost started.

If if the Swing Away steering wheel is it's not locked into position, would that interfere with starting the car?

 

[fordrodsteven]

If if the Swing Away steering wheel is it's not locked into position, would that interfere with starting the car?

It shouldn't make any difference.

 

[Dj-Dan]

Reason I brought up the neutral switch is because soon after I bought my 64 T-bird the starting of the engine was not as strong as when I first got it. It slowly got worst until clicking would occur. The rubber bushing was worn out and not keeping the alignment of selector and neutral switch properly connected when engaged. So from a poor connection, I wasn't receiving enough power to kick over the starter. But this was my situation. I was just trying to help. Other members are more informed then I. You should listen to them then I. I'm new to the T-Bird world. I came from old Mustang group. Good luck on your issue. Take care, Dan (forest hill, Md.)

 

[Mmartinez023]

Thank you all, pretty sure its the neutral safety switch but i have to rebuild my carb and my ingition switch before i can try to turn it over again