1965 hardtop, not getting any power to the interior or ignition.

[projo198]

Now that I have the car running nicely I have moved into the interior. I currently have the dash pulled and am trying to figure out why I am not getting any power inside the cabin. No dash lights, no interior lights, nothing. [UPDATE - The horn does still work].

I have started with the ignition. The car will not start with the key, though turning the key off shuts the car off. The PO installed a button switch which does start the car. It is very rudimentary; one side of it goes to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid and the other to the bottom smaller terminal on the same solenoid (these are the black and white wires below). But this DOES start the car.

I tried messing with the exiting solenoid, cleaned up the terminals and put it back together in what I believe is the original configuration. Still nothing, so I went ahead and replaced it. This is the old one before swapping it out.
https://i.*********/yBUi1gKl.jpg

I suspected the neutral safety switch, so to rule that out I removed it and bypassed it with jumper wires.
https://i.*********/cP9cpxCl.jpg

One last pic, there is nothing hooked up to the square tab of my ignition switch, and I don't see any lose wires. Should something be here? The schematic I am using says it is for an engine warning light. I did pull the terminal from the ignition switch and volt tested every point, there was no voltage on any of them. Should there be a constant hot there? I just finished replacing this with a new one as well.
https://i.*********/vvhXOxAl.jpg

Lastly I checked the main ground and wire wheeled every contact point to bare metal including at the battery, on the block and n the chassis just below the vacuum canister. Then I replaced every glass fuse.


Thanks in advance for your advice, I don't want to keep throwing money and parts at it to try and fix it.

 

[projo198]

This may be a dumb question, but in removing the dash is there something I may have unplugged that could be causing this. The dash is still out.

Thanks

 

[jack-in-sac]

Now that I have the car running nicely I have moved into the interior. I currently have the dash pulled and am trying to figure out why I am not getting any power inside the cabin. No dash lights, no interior lights, nothing. [UPDATE - The horn does still work].

I have started with the ignition. The car will not start with the key, though turning the key off shuts the car off. The PO installed a button switch which does start the car. It is very rudimentary; one side of it goes to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid and the other to the bottom smaller terminal on the same solenoid (these are the black and white wires below). But this DOES start the car.

I tried messing with the exiting solenoid, cleaned up the terminals and put it back together in what I believe is the original configuration. Still nothing, so I went ahead and replaced it. This is the old one before swapping it out.
https://i.*********/yBUi1gKl.jpg

I suspected the neutral safety switch, so to rule that out I removed it and bypassed it with jumper wires.
https://i.*********/cP9cpxCl.jpg

One last pic, there is nothing hooked up to the square tab of my ignition switch, and I don't see any lose wires. Should something be here? The schematic I am using says it is for an engine warning light. I did pull the terminal from the ignition switch and volt tested every point, there was no voltage on any of them. Should there be a constant hot there? I just finished replacing this with a new one as well.
https://i.*********/vvhXOxAl.jpg

Lastly I checked the main ground and wire wheeled every contact point to bare metal including at the battery, on the block and n the chassis just below the vacuum canister. Then I replaced every glass fuse.


Thanks in advance for your advice, I don't want to keep throwing money and parts at it to try and fix it.

You might have a look at the resistor wire going to the coil from the ignition switch, leaving the key on when battery is connected can fry this and/or the the points. good luck Its no magic. trace the wires and when there is no power where it should be you are pretty darn close.. good luck J.

 

[projo198]

You might have a look at the resistor wire going to the coil from the ignition switch, leaving the key on when battery is connected can fry this and/or the the points. good luck Its no magic. trace the wires and when there is no power where it should be you are pretty darn close.. good luck J.

Good idea. My coul is getting power from somewhere is isn't supposed to be I believe, there is some monkeying around with those wires.

Thanks!

 

[projo198]

Ok guys I am finally working with the electrical schematics. Please let me know if I am on track for at least the ignition switch. It looks like someone bypassed a lot just to get the car to start and run.

RED/GREEN - goes to positive terminal on coil. Is this the resistance wire? It is the only positive feed to the coil I see on the diagram.
RED/BLUE - goes to neutral safety switch.
BLACK/GREEN - on the schematic this ends in an (X) ???
YELLOW - eventually turns black/yellow and goes directly to the alternator. Is this the what it uses for ground?
GREEN/RED - goes to alternator terminal regulator terminal (s). Is this where the ignition switch is getting it's power?

 

[jack-in-sac]

If I remember correctly; The wire from the ignition terminal on the ignition switch connects to the resistor wire, after the resistor wire it should be a split going to the ignition side of the solenoid and the other lead to the plus dies of the coil. Your wiring diagram should show this. Follow the schematic.

 

[projo198]

If I remember correctly; The wire from the ignition terminal on the ignition switch connects to the resistor wire, after the resistor wire it should be a split going to the ignition side of the solenoid and the other lead to the plus dies of the coil. Your wiring diagram should show this. Follow the schematic.

I followed the schematic and believe you are right on this part. I see the red/green from the ignition splitting somewhere at the firewall and going on as RED/GREEN to the positive terminal of the coil and as BROWN to the starter solenoid.

The schematic also says there should be 3 wires on the smaller terminals of the starter solenoid. The BROWN we mentioned is by itself, and both a RED and RED/BLUE on the other side. Mine only has the BROWN and RED. Seems I have a missing wire.

Still not sure if that explains not having power to the car.

 

[jack-in-sac]

I followed the schematic and believe you are right on this part. I see the red/green from the ignition splitting somewhere at the firewall and going on as RED/GREEN to the positive terminal of the coil and as BROWN to the starter solenoid.

The schematic also says there should be 3 wires on the smaller terminals of the starter solenoid. The BROWN we mentioned is by itself, and both a RED and RED/BLUE on the other side. Mine only has the BROWN and RED. Seems I have a missing wire.

Still not sure if that explains not having power to the car.

I would go back to the schematic and trace the re/blue from its source to the solenoid. J.

 

[projo198]

I did, it goes to the neutral safety switch like you stated which looks like also ends up being the red/blue at the ignition switch.

 

[jack-in-sac]

I did, it goes to the neutral safety switch like you stated which looks like also ends up being the red/blue at the ignition switch.

Well perhaps not to worry about it at the moment unless when you are ready to start the car it does not allow starting. Does the schematic show the red/blue branching anywhere? that shoudl have a lead going to the coil.

 

[projo198]

Well I got the ignition figured out. Somewhere between the NSS and the starter solenoid the connection is lost. I got fed up, cheated and just spliced in my own wire for the starter. According to my schematic nothing else goes to it. Had to take apart and repair a broken plastic tab on my NSS, but it finally starts with a key!

 

[Bond007]

Well I got the ignition figured out. Somewhere between the NSS and the starter solenoid the connection is lost. I got fed up, cheated and just spliced in my own wire for the starter. According to my schematic nothing else goes to it. Had to take apart and repair a broken plastic tab on my NSS, but it finally starts with a key!

Great! You must be relieved.

 

[jack-in-sac]

Well I got the ignition figured out. Somewhere between the NSS and the starter solenoid the connection is lost. I got fed up, cheated and just spliced in my own wire for the starter. According to my schematic nothing else goes to it. Had to take apart and repair a broken plastic tab on my NSS, but it finally starts with a key!

AHHH!!!!, the sound of relief.

 

[57tbird57]

You might have a look at the resistor wire going to the coil from the ignition switch, leaving the key on when battery is connected can fry this and/or the the points. good luck Its no magic. trace the wires and when there is no power where it should be you are pretty darn close.. good luck J.

did you check the fuse on the back of the headlight switch? that will cause you not to have any interior lights

 

[57tbird57]

did you check the fuse on the back of the headlight switch? that will cause you not to have any interior lights

or the switch itself?

 

[projo198]

Thanks all, very relieved!

I have replaced the switch and today I traced 12V all the way to the bulbs after cleaning the fuse holder, which I believe was the problem.

One question, I know the bulbs get grounded at the gauge housing. Does the gauge housing itelf have a grounding wire, or does it rely on it's mounting

 

[57tbird57]

Thanks all, very relieved!

I have replaced the switch and today I traced 12V all the way to the bulbs after cleaning the fuse holder, which I believe was the problem.

One question, I know the bulbs get grounded at the gauge housing. Does the gauge housing itelf have a grounding wire, or does it rely on it's mounting

just the mounting

 

[projo198]

Thank you!