1964 Thunderbird Rear differential

OneAmongOthers said:
Also remember when reinstalling it you need new copper crush washers and a gasket. Don't skimp and slop on gasket maker. A little can be used to help seal and hold on the gasket. the nuts can be reused if they are not all rusted out. Also check for the axle tag. You can get some more info on it if the tag is still on the car. If you want I have some pictures of my rear disassembled. The are pretty much the same thing. Except my rear is coil. Was the 64 tbird coil or leaf?
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Hey!
Leaf springs. I couldn't source any copper ones but I found a kit at Summit that had aluminum ones. I promise no gasket maker lol :) Pictures would be awesome!
 

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Okay Folks - got the passenger side leaf spring out last night - getting the rear three bolts down were a pain but it worked out great. I have all the parts I am going to reuse soaking in vinegar. I am hoping to get the other side down this weekend or over the span of Thursday and Friday night.

BTW - OMG - I could not believe how much crap came out from under my car lol - I used an electric impact, a dewalt unit that I am in love with, and it shook a TON of stuff down. I also learned that most of my rear quarter on the passenger side is a fiberglass creation LMAO!! Guess that is okay though - I will roll with it. It needs a little work but seems to be a good repair overall.

For the first time in a long time, I am excited! I went ahead and splurged and bought the rest of the parts I need to do pretty much the entire front end as well. I am also going to purge the brake fluid, and inspect the lines. So far the lines seem to be brand new - the rubber ones look new and the back metal line looks brand new. @64ZCODE I am still very interested in going with a dual cylinder setup like you showed us. I guess I could t it off and put the sensor in for the lights. The single-cylinder makes me nervous.
 
The rear axle wheel bearings on my tbird were still in good shape so I left them alone. Not sure how they are on the 64, but on the 69 they are sealed bearings. The axle oil seal is behind the bearing. Removal and instillation requires a press since the bearing as well as the retainer are pressed on. You can try to cut them off with a grinder though I would recommend against it as you can cut into the axle shaft itself. Also if I remember correctly (it's been awhile since I did my rear end), the carrier is offset so when reinstalling the shafts one is shorter than the other.
 
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OneAmongOthers said:
The rear axle wheel bearings on my tbird were still in good shape so I left them alone. Not sure how they are on the 64, but on the 69 they are sealed bearings. The axle oil seal is behind the bearing. Removal requires a press since the bearing as well as the retainer are pressed on. You can try to cut then off with a grinder though I would recommend against it as you can cut into the axle shaft itself. Also if I remember correctly (it's been awhile since I did my rear end), the axle center is offset so when reinstalling the shafts one is shorter than the other.
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Thank you - So, probably take the axles to a shop if I want them done? I think it might be a good idea considering the crazy nature of my car:)
 
s1nemesis1s said:
Thank you - So, probably take the axles to a shop if I want them done? I think it might be a good idea considering the crazy nature of my car:)
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I would say first inspect the carrier housing, ring gear, pinion seal and pinion to ring gear play. There is a specific amount of pinion backlash and depth (I believe) between the ring gear and pinion. If they are alright I would just clean it up and put it back in. Not sure if the 64 is a limited slip or open differential. You would have to check that for yourself. Though I would think if limited the clutches in there would probably be tired after all this time. As for the axle shafts? Are the bearings okay? Check for play and see if they still roll alright. I wouldn't get to crazy and replace things if they are still alright. Replacing the axle seal is easy. Just get a socket of equal size of the seal and lightly tap it into the axle housing.

If you do need to do anything with the carrier or axle bearings I think if you are not confident then take it to a shop for them to press on new bearings and retainers.
 
What I did to check ring gear and pinion tolerances is I held the pinion gear still with one hand and moved the ring gear with the other. You can feel the play between the two pretty easily. If its too much I'd say take it to a shop and have them look at it. Thats the beauty of the Ford 9". Once you pull the carrier housing everything comes with it. Also A LOT easier to rebuild it too.
 
Don,
You got some great advice from OneAmongOthers. I wouldn't stress to much about it unless it was making grinding, growling, or whining noises before, but you never know with a 55 year old mechanical part.. Keep us posted on the progress.
Take care
Ed
 
PURE GOLD @OneAmongOthers ! Thank you again! @ak7an I will keep you all posted. I have not had a ton of time lately to get to the car - since my mother passed I have taken on a bunch of new responsibilities...phew. I plan on getting this out soon. I am hoping to get my other leaf spring off, and drop the rear out of the car within the next week. I need to also take the springs to scrap yard - maybe I can get a few bucks off of them :)
 
At the risk of breathing new life into an old thread - I wanted to ask. When I go to drop the rear, what do I need to mark exactly? The drive shaft, yolk, and nut? I just want to mark the right things.

I was thinking, while I had the seal out, what would be the harm in replacing the bearing behind it? Would I just pack it with grease? Would this change the torque spec for the nut? I am a bit confused about all this "preload," and actual torque. What do I need to torque the bolt too, and how does this preload work? I know this is probably a dumb question, but we all have to start somewhere! :)
 
Forgive my lack of correct nomenclature, but watching this video, the guys says to set the preload before adding in the oil slinger and the seal as the seal with give you a false reading. He is crushing the sleeve as well. Does that seem right? I mean it seems once it is cruhed it should stay that way? It looks like he is going back with a solid sleeve though, maybe the crush sleeve was to just set everything?

I don't want to dive as deep as he has, I thought about replacing the bearing right under the seal area and leaving the rest alone, he is replacing both bearings - is it not advisable to just replace the one? I am doing research, just trying to figure it all out. I get that you pretty much torque the nut until you have no play and some resistance then check it with an inch-pound torque.
 
s1nemesis1s said:
Forgive my lack of correct nomenclature, but watching this video, the guys says to set the preload before adding in the oil slinger and the seal as the seal with give you a false reading. He is crushing the sleeve as well. Does that seem right? I mean it seems once it is cruhed it should stay that way? It looks like he is going back with a solid sleeve though, maybe the crush sleeve was to just set everything?

I don't want to dive as deep as he has, I thought about replacing the bearing right under the seal area and leaving the rest alone, he is replacing both bearings - is it not advisable to just replace the one? I am doing research, just trying to figure it all out. I get that you pretty much torque the nut until you have no play and some resistance then check it with an inch-pound torque.
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I wish I could edit this previous post - I meant to say, I want to replace the rear pinion bearing - at least I think :)
 
I wouldn’t replace a thing unless it was leaking or there was too much play between the ring gear and pinion. As for marking where the driveshaft bolts back on? A simple paint pen will suffice. Paint a line between the end yoke and driveshaft plate.
 
OneAmongOthers said:
I wouldn’t replace a thing unless it was leaking or there was too much play between the ring gear and pinion. As for marking where the driveshaft bolts back on? A simple paint pen will suffice. Paint a line between the end yoke and driveshaft plate.
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Thank you!!! So no marks on the driveshaft itself? This line, my goal is to get them to line up once the bolt is torqued into place?
 
I cannot lie, this guy's video series has me wanting to rebuild my rear lol

 
The driveshaft (if similar to mine) is connected by four bolts. The driveshaft has a double cardan joint on both ends with a circular flange on the end that connects to the rear. I believe either the flange on the driveshaft or the yoke is threaded for the four bolts which hold the driveshaft to the rear end (it’s been awhile since I did mine). It’s either that or there is nuts. Doesn’t matter which bolt goes where. Just take a paint pen and mark across the driveshaft flange and the rear end yoke. Now granted this is how it’s done on a 1969 Thunderbird. Your 1964 may very well have something different. Just get under there and look. As for rebuilding the rear? Make sure you have the right tools and a dial gauge to check for ring gear to pinion backlash and pinion depth. You can really mess things up if you don’t set it right. The old saying goes... “If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.”
 
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