1964 Thunderbird No electrical power

[Shadrack]

Hey Everyone,

I have a problem with my 64 tbird – when the battery is hooked up none of the system power up, lights won’t come on and so on – no interior lights for example.



History: It has been off the road for over a year, I will be moving soon so I have to get her going. I started to do a 3G upgrade to it, had everything just clamped on for testing, and when I connected the battery – nothing. Before I disconnected the system for the “upgrade,” I did have lights and so on – the car ran. However, this has been more than a year ago.



What I have tried: I have made sure I have continuity to alternator wires to and from the voltage regulator. I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid . It has voltage at the positive cable post, but the other side no voltage – not sure if that is normal.



What do you all think? What can I check? I have ordered a new alternator and starter solenoid, I am going to scrap the 3G idea until I am moved and learn more.

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[Ward 57]

I would look at your grounding. You have power where you need it but the circuit is broken.

 

[Shadrack]

Okay so the horn works! just no lights or anything else.

 

[Shadrack]

I just checked I do have one source of constant power coming into the fuse box, but that wire is the only thing that is hot in that box. The constant feed is hot.
This is crazy...my alternator is unhooked but battery is hooked up solid. I have horns but nothing else, car won't crank or anything.

 

[Shadrack]

When I probe the fuse panel this seems to be the only hot lead coming in. When I turn the ignition switch on nothing changes.

 

[Shadrack]

So my alternator is completely unhooked. Is the only supposed to be one constant hotwire going into the fuse panel? All I have is the one constant that I'm pointing to in this picture. All four wires from alternator are unplugged do I need them to be hooked up to have me power to the rest of the car?
I have horns but I don't have lights of any type.

 

[Shadrack]

Do I need to run 12 volts to one of these wires in order to have power to the all the systems in the car?

 

[Ward 57]

Do you have power at the ignition switch? I don't know what you are referring to a '3G' upgrade. The alternator and solenoid connections should not be a factor in powering the rest of the system. I sold my '66 many years ago so I don't know if there is an ignition fuse. Most power for the car goes through this switch.

 

[Critterpainer]

The wire going to the red terminal on the original style alternator should have 12v on it at ALL times.
The fuse connections look oxidized and can be part of the issue. Also what is the story on the VERY corroded nut on the fuse block. That could be the whole issue depending on the purpose of that very rusty nut.

 

[Shadrack]

The wire going to the red terminal on the original style alternator should have 12v on it at ALL times.
The fuse connections look oxidized and can

The wire going to the red terminal on the original style alternator should have 12v on it at ALL times.
The fuse connections look oxidized and can be part of the issue. Also what is the story on the VERY corroded nut on the fuse block. That could be the whole issue depending on the purpose of that very rusty nut.

be part of the issue. Also what is the story on the VERY corroded nut on the fuse block. That could be the whole issue depending on the purpose of that very rusty nut.

None of my alternator wires have 12 volts on them when the battery is hooked up. I also went ahead and splice the amp meter together eliminating it all together. I only have a horn at this point no other power.

 

[Critterpainer]

I am still thinking the VERY rusty nut on the fuse box to the left of the test probe is the issue. I don't have an electrical diagram to look at unfortunately. I think the circuit that feeds the ignition and the alt feed is not receiving power.
.

 

[Shadrack]

None of my alternator wires have 12 volts on them when the battery is hooked up. I also went ahead and splice the amp meter together eliminating it all together. I only have a horn at this point no other power.

I am redoing all the connections and I have new circuit breakers, past that...I have bypassed the amp meter...I have a new starter relay/solenoid, new battery cables...I don't know what I am missing.
I know only wire is hot into the box and that is on the side with cruddy connectors. The other side the black/yellow wire coming in is dead...I don't know guys...I need some.help.

 

[Ward 57]

I am still thinking the VERY rusty nut on the fuse box to the left of the test probe is the issue. I don't have an electrical diagram to look at unfortunately. I think the circuit that feeds the ignition and the alt feed is not receiving power.
.

Yah, that top fuse looks pretty corroded too.

 

[Ward 57]

I am redoing all the connections and I have new circuit breakers, past that...I have bypassed the amp meter...I have a new starter relay/solenoid, new battery cables...I don't know what I am missing.
I know only wire is hot into the box and that is on the side with cruddy connectors. The other side the black/yellow wire coming in is dead...I don't know guys...I need some.help.

When you start putting things together make sure you use di-electric silicone grease on all your connectors, it's available at any auto parts store. Helps to snug them down and also prevents further corrosion. It looks like your car lived in a high humidity environment for a time.

 

[Shadrack]

Thank you all. So I found the issue. It was in a connector under the dash right near the heater box. there was a bundle of wires with a slightly broken and corroded connector! I stabbed it a few times with a probe and BAM LET THERE BE LIGHT! So, I will cut this bad connector out, and wire these together with solid good shielded mechanical connection(s). I did bypass the ammeter so that is great - I also replaced the cruddy breakers, I just need to find some of the right size so they will fit in the fuse box. I will post a picture soon of all of it. THANK YOU ALL!

 

[Shadrack]

Here are some pictures of the problem and resolution.

 

[Critterpainer]

Wow, that connector had some heat in it at one time. Do I see the pink resistor wire to the coil in the middle picture?

 

[Shadrack]

Wow, that connector had some heat in it at one time. Do I see the pink resistor wire to the coil in the middle picture?

I was surprised as well, that think was VERY melted and corroded, I had to cut it apart with a razor.
I am pretty sure that is what the wire is. The previous owner bypassed the neutral safety switch, and I bypassed this wire when I first got the car and put in an electronic. ignition. I have run my ignition from a separate fusebox I installed. I have taken many of the loads off of the original wiring, next is headlights, they are getting their own relays and wiring. Trying to not create a smoke show lol.

 

[Ward 57]

Any idea of why that connector got so hot? Keep an eye out for other electrical corrosion issues.

 

[Shadrack]

Any idea of why that connector got so hot? Keep an eye out for other electrical corrosion issues.

I don't know, I would say it happened a long time ago from the look of it. I think at some point the car experienced a significant electrical event which lead to all the hacking by the previous owner(s). I wish I could restore it back with proper colors and all that, only thing I can do is go quality and thick on the wire. Better than being in the hands of the previous owner lol.