1964 Thunderbird Engine swap

[OneAmongOthers]

With all you are saying why not just yank the motor? If you want to see what the cylinders look like get a bore scope and stick it down the plug holes. Pull the valve covers will tell you a lot about the condition of the valves and heads. Pulling the intake let’s you get a look at the lifter valley, pushrods and cam. Remember pulling heads means new head bolts as they are torque to yield. Head gaskets too.

 

[Shadrack]

With all you are saying why not just yank the motor? If you want to see what the cylinders look like get a bore scope and stick it down the plug holes. Pull the valve covers will tell you a lot about the condition of the valves and heads. Pulling the intake let’s you get a look at the lifter valley, pushrods and cam. Remember pulling heads means new head bolts as they are torque to yield. Head gaskets too.

I am seriously considering pulling the engine and slowly tearing it down, and going back with a budgetish rebuild/refresh/overhaul.

 

[OneAmongOthers]

I am seriously considering pulling the engine and slowly tearing it down, and going back with a budgetish rebuild/refresh/overhaul.

Even a "budget" rebuild will cost A LOT. Unless you plan on doing the bulk of the work expect to pay like 5-6k in costs for a good rebuild.

 

[Shadrack]

Even a "budget" rebuild will cost A LOT. Unless you plan on doing the bulk of the work expect to pay like 5-6k in costs for a good rebuild.

WOW 5-6 k! Hmm...making the LT1 work may be cheaper in the end haha. Seriously though, wow is that FE specific or is that what a rebuild runs these days generally? I mean I am talking about going back as stock as possible. I would pull it myself - and go from there. I have some books on these engines but books and real world are two different things. I would like to do as much work as I can. I feel like I could break one down and put it back together - it would just be slow.

 

[OneAmongOthers]

WOW 5-6 k! Hmm...making the LT1 work may be cheaper in the end haha. Seriously though, wow is that FE specific or is that what a rebuild runs these days generally? I mean I am talking about going back as stock as possible. I would pull it myself - and go from there. I have some books on these engines but books and real world are two different things. I would like to do as much work as I can. I feel like I could break one down and put it back together - it would just be slow.

The price I said was what I was looking at to have my 460 engine rebuilt in my 1969 tbird. I would assume the 390 would be around the same.

 

[Shadrack]

Been doing some research and learning a whole lot. I want to do as much as I can myself on this car. I did learn that it might be best to let a shop handle the cleanup with a hot tank and get the oil galleys clear. I have all the tools to do it, but man, if I messed that up eek. Been pricing parts and tools. (of course, this is all before I have run tests) but if I pulled the engine, was able to reuse the pistons and rods, went back with OEM size no file rings, Guessing Moly rings would be better for a good seal in case the cylinders are out of round, dd a hone myself to get rid of the glaze and grime, unless the shop would do that cheap, clean up the crank myself, I think I could do it for under 2k. That is with me finding a good shop I can trust. I would go back with the stock intake and heads because this is not a hotrod, and while it is a restomod, I would like to have the power plant stay the same as much as possible. I suppose I could go with a slightly better cam and lifters, but outside of that the head work, blockwork, and gasket set will take me right up to that price. I think I should probably account for 500 more of a buffer, plus I will need to buy a stand and probably a hoist - hoping I can get them used. This is a ways off, I have to save that money first lol - but by then I should have the suspension done.