1961 Smoke and oil light on | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1961 Smoke and oil light on

  • Thread starter Thread starter My61bird
  • Start date Start date
If you don't have reliable oil pressure your next move should be to drop the pan. You will have to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine 2-3 inches. dont let the fan hit the shroud or the radiator. You will have to dissconnect the tie rod and also rotate the crank so the weights and rods clear the pan as you drop it. I have done it on a 62, 65 and 66.
 
If you don't have reliable oil pressure your next move should be to drop the pan. . . . . . .
My61bird, it the oil pressure is still poor after you put in a new oil pressure sensor or mechanical oil gauge, Yes dropping & cleaning the oil pan would be a very good thing to do.

I pulled the pan off the old engine in a '55 and there was so much sludge in the bottom I'm surprised it got any oil at all. Next was a '57, the cover & screen around the bottom of the pickup tube had come loose & dropped to the bottom, blocking the pickup, no usable oil pressure under 1200 rpm!
The crank had to be turned... a lot. 😳
 
No I changed the oil pressure sensor but never checked the oil pressure I'm going to do once I find a pressure gauge, and once I do is there a easier way to hook it up besides having to remove the oil sensor again? As that sensor was a devil to get out I had to remove the oil neck from the block and replace the gasket as I couldn't get a wrench on it, I also took off a second time to get the new fuel pump installed.
 
I pulled the pan off the old engine in a '55 and there was so much sludge in the bottom I'm surprised it got any oil at all. Next was a '57, the cover & screen around the bottom of the pickup tube had come loose & dropped to the bottom, blocking the pickup, no usable oil pressure under 1200 rpm!
The crank had to be turned... a lot. 😳
Did it look something like this?

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When I rebuilt this engine I only had to polish the crankshaft journels, but I had to replace the camshaft and lifters due to wear. I was also fortunate that I only had to hone the cylinder walls.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

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Thanks Doug for the info as I've been wondering to take down the pan do you need to raise the engine for it to clear the beam under it or is there some other way?
 
So I took the valve covers off and discovered that I have no oil coming up to the heads and have a oil pressure tester on its way, so I'm pretty sure my problem is a bad oil pump but wondering if there's a easier way to get it out other then having to raise the engine a few inches for the pan to clear the support beam, and if not what's the best way to jack up the car then the engine besides using the support I won't have access to if I need a jack under the engine? And after I get the pan down will I be able to tell if I damaged the crank shaft? Appreciate all your help.
 
When I pulled the pan I first removed the bolts from the side motor mounts then paced a board on the jack to protect the pan and raised the engine. I put a 2x4 under reach motor mount and lowered the engine onto the 2x4 spacer, Watch that you dont jack the engine too high and pinch or bind anything. When removing the pan the crankshaft may have to be rotated (with a tool, not the starter) to help give clearance for pan removal. Also you may have to disconnect the steering tie rod.
 
Once the pan is off you can remove a rod bearing cap and look at the bearing. You can do the same thing for the main bearings. If just worn you can replace the bearings without engine removal. Show us pictures! And remember which way the caps are on. They must go back the same way and in the place.
 
So I finally Got the oil pressure tester that got lost in the mail and as you could see Im getting about 40 psi at idle, which goes up to about 60 revving the engine, which looks pretty normal no? I also did a compression test on every cylinder and getting readings from 120 to 143psi so I’m stumped.
 

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And I’m not sure if I couldn’t figure out how to upload a short video to this site, but if it does, maybe it will help you figure out what’s going on by listening to it. Thanks again for all your help.
 

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Your oil pressure is great! Compression not bad but could be read as a little off. I wouldn't worry about it.
As far as the smoke goes how long have you run it?
The oil light may have a short or possibly the incorrect sending unit.
It sounds to me like you need a good highway run.
 
Yeah I changed the oil sensor with a new one and it's the ticking noise which seems to be missing I'm worried about.
 
Maybe a mechanic's stethoscope might help you track down where the ticking sound is coming from. A loose spark plug could do that but if you checked the compression you know they are all tight.
The compression readings should all be close to each other. How many cylinders have the low reading? If it's only one or two It's possible you may have a bent push rod or the lifters are way out of adjustment. Have you pulled the valve covers and taken a look?
 
Lifters are hydraulic, but maybe a lifter is ticking.
Give it a run!
 
Lifters are hydraulic, but maybe a lifter is ticking.
Give it a run!
I've seen hydraulic lifters go bad. Plugged and won't pump up. My 'Y' block has solid lifters so that is another good possibility I didn't think of. But the compression difference is still an issue.
 
Drive it. Add a quart of cheap ATF and watch how fast the oil turns black. The lifters might even quiet up after being flushed.
 
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