1960 Convertible Fully Restored - Barn Find | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models
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1960 Convertible Fully Restored - Barn Find

B
Reaction score
6
Thunderbird Year
1960
Hey there everybody. New guy here!

It's always insane coming across real band finds. But here I am. And here we go ...

A guy I've known for a few years now has aged and dealt with some serious health issues. So he is auctioning off a 400+ acre farm property here in CT. Separate from the auction he will be private selling some classic cars. My love for classic cars runs deep, so I offered to get them roadworthy and cleaned up so that he can properly sell them to a good home.

One of the classics is the 1960 Thunderbird convertible pictured here. I took the cover off with him the other day after a 9+ year slumber. The car was 'fully restored' at one point and is in fantastic condition. The mice did not get to it from what I've seen so far.

I checked the cylinders, fluids and all of the other basics then put a fresh battery in it the other day. It turns over beautifully but had no spark. I'm chasing down the common offenders of course and should have it fired up today. Driving - TBD.

Anyway, if you have any info or advice on a 60 convertible as I get started, I would appreciate it. I had a 68 Lincoln Continental years ago. It was a hard top though and I recall all of the nightmares I read about the convertibles!!

Thanks
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@mark costello in fact I did buy a new coil as ammo from the parts cannon, haha! New coil, points, condenser and battery is the current inventory from my local O'Reilly's. I wish I would have picked up a fuel pump too, again just in case. But I remember the Lincoln 3-port fuel pumps were hard to come by, and best to rebuild the old ones. I'm not sure if that's a thing with the Thunderbirds.

@64ZCODE , yes sir! Will report back

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Holy cow I got stumped tonight. I just couldn't get any spark to the plugs. Tried all the tricks but had to walk away. It's such a simple system dang it!!!!

I got a really weak spark at the points with the key on for a bit. But then the spark went away. Nothing. I'm getting 12V at the coil when the points are open. And about 7V when they are closed. So the coil.and wire resistor seem to be doing the thing unless I'm missing something.

I put a new coil, points and condenser in. But swapped the old ones back in when I didn't see any change..And I threw a jump pack on the battery just in case it was a little low. Nada

So I'm missing something. But I will get it. I'm going to try and run 12V directly to the coil tomorrow. Didn't have any wire with me tonight.

And I put a battery in the 41 International K1 too. It turned over. But as with the Thunderbird - NO SPARK!!!! Must be some.aort of farm curse, haha.

Having fun. And can't wait to glide down the road in the Thunderbird. With the top down!
 

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Holy cow I got stumped tonight. I just couldn't get any spark to the plugs. Tried all the tricks but had to walk away. It's such a simple system dang it!!!!

I got a really weak spark at the points with the key on for a bit. But then the spark went away. Nothing. I'm getting 12V at the coil when the points are open. And about 7V when they are closed. So the coil.and wire resistor seem to be doing the thing unless I'm missing something.

I put a new coil, points and condenser in. But swapped the old ones back in when I didn't see any change..And I threw a jump pack on the battery just in case it was a little low. Nada

So I'm missing something. But I will get it. I'm going to try and run 12V directly to the coil tomorrow. Didn't have any wire with me tonight.

And I put a battery in the 41 International K1 too. It turned over. But as with the Thunderbird - NO SPARK!!!! Must be some.aort of farm curse, haha.

Having fun. And can't wait to glide down the road in the Thunderbird. With the top down!
Could it be the ignition switch, itself? I've had such things happen when the key controls the 12 volts heading out to the starter and engine. On a Fiat, I solved the problem with a new ignition switch (and key) and by installing a relay to handle the 12 volt amperage. The key was just a contact with no serious current in it any more. Inside the old switch, it was sort of like burnt ignition points.
Best wishes,
Tom
 
Holy cow I got stumped tonight. I just couldn't get any spark to the plugs. Tried all the tricks but had to walk away. It's such a simple system dang it!!!!

I got a really weak spark at the points with the key on for a bit. But then the spark went away. Nothing. I'm getting 12V at the coil when the points are open. And about 7V when they are closed. So the coil.and wire resistor seem to be doing the thing unless I'm missing something.

I put a new coil, points and condenser in. But swapped the old ones back in when I didn't see any change..And I threw a jump pack on the battery just in case it was a little low. Nada

So I'm missing something. But I will get it. I'm going to try and run 12V directly to the coil tomorrow. Didn't have any wire with me tonight.

And I put a battery in the 41 International K1 too. It turned over. But as with the Thunderbird - NO SPARK!!!! Must be some.aort of farm curse, haha.

Having fun. And can't wait to glide down the road in the Thunderbird. With the top down!
I want to cruz some route 66 when i get my 59 convertable done. with the top down too
 
Well I think I solved the no spark issue. Thanks @T-BirdTom for the suggestion, but it does not appear to be the Ignition Switch. Though I too was suspecting in that direction.

With the Distributor Cam at a high point, and holding the Points open, I used my 'powered probe' to confirm that the 'fixed Point' was grounded and that I had 12v at the nut that connects the Coil (-) and the Condenser terminals. I then clipped the ground of my Test Light to the ground of the Powered Probe and touched the tip of the Powered Probe to the nut. I placed the needle of the Test Light into the Coil (Coil Wire removed) and flicked the Powered Probe from 12V to Ground to see if I could get an arc. The coil arced out just fine. I then put the Coil Wire in and did the same thing to the Distributor end of the Coil Wire ... no dice! I couldnt get an arc from the Coil and through the Coil Wire.

Honestly, in all my years I dont think I've ever seen (or recognized) a REALLY bad Coil Wire. But it does appear that the carbon filament (or whatever) is broken and not able to pass current. So it should be an easy fix (famous last words). I just didnt have a spare Coil Wire with me. The '41 International K-1 that's there has the Coil Wire and Plug Wires integral to the Distributor Cap, so I couldn't borrow it off of there.

Anyway, I'm going to grab a fresh set of Coil and Plug Wires and head over there when I can. It should fire up though. I will say that the gas in the tank is a little varnished. Maybe more than a little. Ugh. I really dont feel like pumping it out, so I may just throw 5 gallons in to dilute it and try and run it. We shall see. I havent been able to check the brakes, trans fluid, etc yet. So there are still mountains to climb. But we're making progress. That Bird will be back on the road soon!
 
Hi B, A coil wire would be a very easy "fix" in your case!
A couple of years ago we got a 1956 GMC flatbed truck that had been sitting 2 decades dormant up and running. It took a while to get spark there, too. Turned out to be a bad condenser. We changed out points, plugs, wires, coil, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the fuel tank and lines, replaced the brakes and lines. It ran great once we found the condenser was bad. Resurrecting something like that was challenging. The clutch slipped a bit in the higher gears at first. Maybe it was just surface rust on the pressure plate/flywheel. My friend sold the truck and the next owner said he'd address that at some time.

Our hardest thing was identifying the engine. GMC used two different 6 Cylinders in them at that time. This was the larger displacement one (once we identified it). It was actually an engine that Pontiac built and shared with GMC.

I hope that coil wire does the trick!
Tom
 
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