1957 Wobbling wheels after power steering kit installed

[sre]

The Ford shop manual chapter 5 page 15 says normal fluid pressure is 700-900 psi

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[doug7740]

Check you pump pressure to make sure if it's in spec. and not to high. This old system runs much lower pressure than todays systems. If the pressure is to high, the control valve can't handle it and will over react making the valve move back and forth rapidly, hence wobble.

Since he purchased the complete power steering kit from Larry's, I would hope that the pump output pressure matches the requirements of the control valve.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TBBLUE02]

The Ford shop manual chapter 5 page 15 says normal fluid pressure is 700-900 psi

Thanks, Larry's agreed with the 900 my pump generated. Larry's is working with the builder and is trying to resolve the problem. Latest guess is that I will be getting a 3rd control valve!!!!!! And just think, this conversion should have been little more than a plug and play exercise.

 

[TBBLUE02]

I'm now on the 3rd control valve and 2nd ram cylinder and the front wheels still wobble! Wobble occurs at low speed while turning (in a parking lot environment) and when making a slight or moderate turn (making a turn from a traffic light or stop sign). When going straight the wheels do not wobble. The control valve is a rebuilt Bendix (not a cheap China unit). Larry's rebuilder is frustrated and I am beginning to think I will go back to manual steering! Tires (750 X 14 - 4 ply non belted) are in excellent condition (not flat spotted - maybe 500 miles use), rims are not bent and there are minimal balancing weights on rims. The front end and steering box have been rebuilt (every thing is tight but not binding). Any suggestions you might have would be extremely helpful. P.S. my cost thus far is $3,600 for P/S conversion kit and $2,500 for rebuilding steering box and front end!

 

[sre]

At this point I almost believe their is something wrong with the geometry of the front end. Double check all the components and measurements to insure they are correct.

 

[TBBLUE02]

Thanks. The front end was aligned by an alignment shop who specialize in classic cars just after the front end was rebuilt. Further, I had a second shop verify the alignment 3 months later. Both procedures were done this summer. I failed to mention in my earlier posting that the wheel bearings were also replaced and were properly packed with grease. This classic T-Bird is turning into a money pit just like some boats. I'm looking for a meracle or at least a large life preserver!

 

[Ward 57]

So basically, your wheel jerks when turning and everything has been checked/replaced and certified.
It's definitely a hydraulic issue. the technology has been around a hundred years or more.
Somehow the control valve. The only thing I can think of is there an air bubble hiding in the system.
Brake pressure replacements complain they have to jam the brakes to get the lights to work. The switch needs fluid next to the diaphragm to work that little pocket of air in the foot needs to be filled.
Just a guess, but it's a mechanical hydraulic issue a minor issue can mess up the whole thing.

 

[TBBLUE02]

@ Ward 57

Because there are no fluid bleeder valve points on P/S units (like in break systems) the only way I know how to bleed the P/S system / lines is to turn steering wheel lock to lock (with motor wormed up) at least 20 times. If you know of a different way to eliminate any potential bubbles in the fluid pathways, please let me know. Your suggestion is logical. I’m willing to try anything!

 

[sre]

I have a lift in my garage. I put my car on the lift and cycle the steering lock to lock 2-3 times. I've installed a lot of these P/S systems, mostly Mustangs but this system is identical to the T-bird. When you turn the wheel end to end do you feel any difference in the pressure required to turn the wheel?

 

[mikeinontario]

Since you have tried everything else, I would remove the hoses and look for an obstruction or internally collapsed hose.

 

[TBBLUE02]

The steering wheel pressure is equal both when the wheels are off ground and when driving. When driving, the P/S works great (going straight) until you turn the steering wheel. Both small line running from the control valve to the ram cylinder are free flowing. I do believe that it is a pressure problem but no one can seem to localize the problem. - so far. As stated before I am on my 3rd control valve and second ram cylinder. Larry's and their builder have been very cooperative but the problem persists. If I had hair, I'd be pulling it out!

 

[TBBLUE02]

I've got a new issue with the P/S unit I put on my T-Bird. When pulling into my driveway at an angle (wheels turned), at a Dead Stop, the wheels wobbled! There's got to be an answer (solution) to this problem. But unfortunately, I cannot find anyone in the greater Detroit area who works on these old school P/S units. P.S. With this latest incident, it seems that the rebuilt gear box is not fault. Help me, Ronda!!!!!

 

[cokefirst]

If you are certain that your suspension and steering items (idler arm, tie rods etc) are tight, then your problem is likely in that valve. I though you said that the valve was a brand new Bendix, which seems odd since they quit making the valves years ago. If it is a rebuilt, then there could be something as minor as a burr on the spool. Since you have tried so many things, have you tried finding someone with a system in your are that is working properly and swapping the control valve with that car just for a test. If it continues to wabble with a valve that does not have a similar wabble on the donor car will at least eliminate the valve as the problem

 

[TBBLUE02]

FINALLY - Good news on my wobbling wheels on my '57 T-Bird! It took 3 contrl valves and 2 ram cylinders but the wheels no longer wobble. It was a year long process dealing with my parts supplier and after rebuilding the front end (NOT needed) to be able to not panic driving my T-Bird.

 

[Machinehand]

I’m glad to see you have resolved this issue.

What was causing the wobble?

I’m curious because I’m in the process of rebuilding the steering box and valve in my 55 and would like to avoid this.

 

[doug7740]

I’m glad to see you have resolved this issue.

What was causing the wobble?

I’m curious because I’m in the process of rebuilding the steering box and valve in my 55 and would like to avoid this.

The power steering control valve is easy to rebuild and you do not have to take the entire assembly off the car to do it. The power steering valve body can be rebuilt by removing the center valve body section only. Look at #13 posting of this thread.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TBBLUE02]

My '57 did not have P/S on it when I bought it. So, I had to purchase the kit from a T-Bird parts supplier ($3,600). With 60 year old parts it is problematic getting the control valve (Bendix) to work as new. It took 3 control valves (and 2 ram cylinders) to FINALLY get the P/S to work properly. Yes, I agree that the more modern P/S systems work better but, I just wanted to keep my otherwise 100% original rust free California T-Bird as pure as I could keep it. Just be partient when rebuilding/installing the P/S units. Working with the parts supplier, It took me one FULL YEAR to get things working properly.

 

[TBBLUE02]

Got a really dumb question. Is there an after market oil drain plug for a 312 engine that uses a small nut head, say 5/8 " . I just bought a 1 1/8" wrench at HomeDepot for $20! So it's too late for me. But maybe we can help other Forum members and save them a few $$$.

 

[TBBLUE02]

I’m glad to see you have resolved this issue.

What was causing the wobble?

I’m curious because I’m in the process of rebuilding the steering box and valve in my 55 and would like to avoid this.

Sorry for the slow response. In short, it was the control valve assembly. Rebuilding 60+ year old parts (Bendix) is not a science. I never got a response from the supposed 'best' rebuilder around but, after installing the third control valve assembly it works just fine. NO more wobbling wheels. I let myself fall victim to the suggestions of T-Bird parts supplier to have both the front end and gear box completely rebuilt. Turns out it was NOT necessary. That was about a $3,000 unnecessary expense! Did the parts supplier even offer to cover a portion of the costs of their suggested but unnecessary rebuilds - NO.

Please do not be turned off by my experience. P/S is really nice to have when it works right.