1957 Wobbling wheels after power steering kit installed

TBBLUE02

TBBLUE02

Active Member
Bronze Member
Gold Member
Last seen
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Thunderbird Year
1957
I installed a P/S kit, original style, from a T-Bird supply house ($3,600). The wheels wobble when turning in either direction at any speed (e.g., making a turn at a traffic light or in a parking lot). There is no wobble when going straight even going over bumps in the road. Both A-Pillars, torsion bar and steering box have been rebuilt ($2,500). The standard wheels/tires are in balance and not bent or out of round. The wheels are securely bolted to the drums. The front-end components are tight, not binding, and everything works smoothly. Except the wheels STILL WOBBLE! I am frustrated to say the least. Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

You can omit the make & model of your car from future subjects since we are exclusive to the Ford Thunderbird site.
 
I know you said you got a complete kit. I looked at a kit being sold, it did not include the idler arm or pitman arm. Did you have the front end lined up when installation was complete. The hoses from the control valve to cylinder are correct the the only thing left is something incorrect or loose in the control valve.
 
sre said:
I know you said you got a complete kit. I looked at a kit being sold, it did not include the idler arm or pitman arm. Did you have the front end lined up when installation was complete. The hoses from the control valve to cylinder are correct the the only thing left is something incorrect or loose in the control valve.
Click to expand...
I got the complete from Larry's and it did have an idler arm. They replaced the control valve assy. once already. I'm thinking that the second control valve assy. (the second one did take away some of the wobble) or the power (ram) cylinder is defective. The two lines connecting the control valve and the ram cylinder were already connected. The wheels were aligned after the instillation of the kit. Everyone I've talked to thus far is at a loss for the reason for the wobbling wheels problem.
P-S Kit from Larrys -3500K.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'll be honest i've done probably 20 of these P/S systems, mostlyMustangs, but they are exactly the same and never had an issue with the cylinder, but also never experienced your exact problem. I would change the cylinder, never is not never, anything is possible.
 
It is highly unlikely that it is the cylinder. when you way "wobble" do you mean that the wheel shakes back and forth when turning? If so, that sounds like a problem with the control valve. If you are describing a different wobble, please explain.
 
cokefirst said:
It is highly unlikely that it is the cylinder. when you way "wobble" do you mean that the wheel shakes back and forth when turning? If so, that sounds like a problem with the control valve. If you are describing a different wobble, please explain.
Click to expand...
The wobbling was so bad with the original control valve in the kit that it resembled that all the lug nuts were loose! Scared the you know what out of me! When the second control valve was installed, the wheels now only wobble when making a turn, like going around a corner. The wobbling is very noticeable but not nearly as bad. I'm inclined to agree with you that the second control valve assembly is defective as well. I was told that the control valve was new, not rebuilt. Even so, that doesn't mean it was not defective. Larry's is working with the builder to see if they can get yet another control valve and a ram cylinder. I said I would change out the ram cylinder first and see if that is the problem. If there is no change, I would change the valve assembly. This exercise should have been little more than a plug and play.
 
FYI and this is my opinion only after speaking to a reputable rebuilder of these valves. It is my understanding that these valves are made in China and the quality control is less than optimal. The second problem with these valves is that the parts from the original valves are not interchangeable, which makes them non repairable. It is my suggestion that you get a quality rebuilt valve. Lars Corporation has a good reputation but are a little high. I use http://www.stangerssite.com/rebuildingindex.html and have had great results. This rebuilder KNOWS these power steering systems.
 
cokefirst said:
FYI and this is my opinion only after speaking to a reputable rebuilder of these valves. It is my understanding that these valves are made in China and the quality control is less than optimal. The second problem with these valves is that the parts from the original valves are not interchangeable, which makes them non repairable. It is my suggestion that you get a quality rebuilt valve. Lars Corporation has a good reputation but are a little high. I use http://www.stangerssite.com/rebuildingindex.html and have had great results. This rebuilder KNOWS these power steering systems.
Click to expand...
My shop that specializes in classic Mustangs, Said emphatically, rebuild don't replace.
 
@cokefirst Larry's verified with builder that the control valve source is USA Bendix - NOT China. Larry's is still working on a solution with builder. Until then, got any other possible reason for my P/S wobble problem? Appreciate any possible resolution to this unique problem I'm having. Larry's said that this is the first of its kind with the P/S kits they sell. Oh yea, I didn't win the power ball $$$ either.
 
Just a thought, when you installed the control valve did you measure the distance from the center of the control valve ball stud to the center of the left hand connecting rod stud or hole? The distance must be 9.5 inches.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Distance.png
 
Good thought - Yes, my T-Bird is set at 9.5 inched center to center. There was an error in the earlier T-Birds manual to set the it this distance to 9 inches but that was corrected. The incorrect setting resulted in having the steering wheel be off top dead center. If I remember it was about a quarter turn. Thanks, all suggestions are welcomed. I lost a whole summer cruising due to this P/S problem. In Michigan that's a very small window to be out there with the top down.
 
TBBLUE02 said:
The wobbling was so bad with the original control valve in the kit that it resembled that all the lug nuts were loose! When the second control valve was installed, the wheels now only wobble when making a turn, like going around a corner. The wobbling is very noticeable but not nearly as bad. I'm inclined to agree with you that the second control valve assembly is defective as well.
Click to expand...
Since the wobbling was somewhat improved after the second control valve was installed, that could indicate that the control valve piston is sticking in the valve body bore.

The power steering control valve is easy to rebuild and you do not have to take the entire assembly off the car to do it. The power steering valve body can be rebuilt by removing the center valve body section only.

Start by removing the power steering hoses from the control valve body. Next, remove the two screws from the end cap and remove the cap.

IMG_3595.JPG

Remove the nut, the washers, the spring and the spacer in the order they were removed.

100_6733.JPG

Remove the two bolts that secure the valve body to the ball stud housing tube and remove the valve body from the housing tube.

IMG_3621.JPG

Disassemble the valve body by removing the sleeve and large washer, and then push the piston out of the valve body.

100_6734 (2).JPG

Check the holes in the piston to insure they are open and fluid can pass through them. Also, check the piston to insure a smooth surface, then lubricate the piston with WD-40 to insure free movement in the bore.

Piston.jpg

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Wow! Thank you for you response. It makes perfect sense to me. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time the time to include pics too. I have already passed you thoughts on to Larry's and ultimately the control valve builder.
 
I couldn't agree more with it being fun working on these old and stately gals. The only problem with this particular problem is that if the cylinder wall is scored and must be bored to make it seal properly (like a piston wall in an engine) I can't do that. Larry's has been responsive to my plight. I'm hoping to get a next step response from early next week. P.S. I had a 13k mile 2002 Florida T-Bird that was perfect in every respect but all I could do to it was wax it! I like a little grease under my nails.
 
TBBLUE02 said:
I couldn't agree more with it being fun working on these old and stately gals. The only problem with this particular problem is that if the cylinder wall is scored and must be bored to make it seal properly (like a piston wall in an engine) I can't do that. Larry's has been responsive to my plight. I'm hoping to get a next step response from early next week. P.S. I had a 13k mile 2002 Florida T-Bird that was perfect in every respect but all I could do to it was wax it! I like a little grease under my nails.
Click to expand...
Maybe just a good honing? Used to be done all the time without removing material and then non standard seals required. Great wishes on your journey.
 
TBBLUE02 said:
I couldn't agree more with it being fun working on these old and stately gals. The only problem with this particular problem is that if the cylinder wall is scored and must be bored to make it seal properly (like a piston wall in an engine) I can't do that.
Click to expand...
Since you purchased the complete kit from Larry's, if you find that the cylinder wall of the power steering control valve body is scored you shouldn't have to go any further, I'm sure Larry's or their rebuilder will take care of it. You are only disassembling and inspecting the valve body to see if the holes in the piston are open and fluid can pass through them, and that piston has a smooth surface and moves freely in the bore.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Check you pump pressure to make sure if it's in spec. and not to high. This old system runs much lower pressure than todays systems. If the pressure is to high, the control valve can't handle it and will over react making the valve move back and forth rapidly, hence wobble.
 
The pump pressure came in a 900 pounds. Larry's said that is the number they were looking for. Do you have another pounds of presser you recommend? On the pump casing it said 1,100.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top